Jumping in deep .. made a deal for a 27' AGP ... questions

[GCS]

Ok fellas I went and did it. I made a deal on a 27' round AGP tonight.

It is used but comes with everything except it needs a new liner and a ladder. All totaled it looks like I will be around $1500 or so with everything (excluding land clearing) if I do this all myself. Hoping it stays this way as that is about the top of my budget unfortunately but this is a massive upgrade from what we had before.

I already found a place thanks TFP (poolsupplies.com) for a new liner.

Please review my thoughts on install

- yard leveling I will have to hire this out since I do not have the equipment to do so. A big chunk is already done as we are moving up from an Intex Metal frame 18' round pool.
- I am ordering coving, wall foam, and rhino pad for the install along with a new 25 gauge liner.

Questions on the above process:
1 - Level yard out to roughly 28 1/2 feet all around
2 - Place 2" tall pads for supports ... should I or shouldn't I?
3 - Install posts and wall check for roundness. Once done install rhino pad then coving? Do I still need sand under the rhino pad or should I do happy bottom only (opinions seem mixed on all of this)
4 - Place overlap liner in place (preferrably from outside) and install top rails
5 - Connect skimmer, returns, and filtration (it is a Waterco T-450 but I have a Hayward 180T from my Intex I could use as if that would be better)
6 - Fill with water, test, retest, and test again


Ladder choices -- Looks like there are a number of fans of the Biltmore and the Royal steps. My only question is how much space are these style steps going to eat up and my pool. I cannot seem locate "dimensions" on these things.

TIA

Greg

 

[NWMNMom]

Well congrats on the new pool!! You will be so happy with the added space compared to the Intex - it will seem like an ocean! I can't speak for wedding cake steps since I have Biltmores - I believe they are about 25" wide and go out from the wall about 36" - the reason I chose them is that they have a "flow through" design so the water/circulation goes through them and I have never had a problem with algae as some people do. You do have to have the correct weights to keep them down, but that applies to wedding cake steps too - we have a member who came up with a great idea using PVC filled with concrete and capped with eyehooks drilled in so they can be tied up and pulled out as needed. WAY better than using sandbags in any of the steps.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Questions on the above process:
1 - Level yard out to roughly 28 1/2 feet all around
Correct! Really level!
2 - Place 2" tall pads for supports ... should I or shouldn't I?
Ours is done that way. It's recommended by the mfg.
3 - Install posts and wall check for roundness. Once done install rhino pad then coving? Do I still need sand under the rhino pad or should I do happy bottom only (opinions seem mixed on all of this)
Our ground is sandy loam and clay so it makes a very hard smooth surface. So our Gorilla bottom lays directly on the ground. With a Happy bottom on top it will feel great!
4 - Place overlap liner in place (preferrably from outside) and install top rails
Correct!
5 - Connect skimmer, returns, and filtration.
Sounds like a plan.
6 - Fill with water, test, retest, and test again.
And then you might consider testing the water!

 

[GCS]

Yeah we are looking forward to it but at the same time I am ridiculously nervous about it as well.

I am just hoping to find a good person that can get my yard nice and level. I had someone do it for my Intex and they did a Tick-poor job so my Intex has been out of whack since day one (a little more than 2 years now) so I want to be sure this is RIGHT! My yard is not too bad but it's off enough to need a bobcat or something to level it out vs hitting it with a shovel and some muscle. If the yard is super level I am honestly not too worried about the install. The county is going to give me Crud (they already have) but I have dealt with them on other fronts before and got passed it.

You guys have any opinion on whether I should use the Waterco or the Hayward?

Also I have an old "metal" shed not too far from where the pool will be (25-30 feet maybe). What do you guys think about burying some pvc lines from the shed to the pool and placing the equipment in there vs next to the pool. Shed is probably 12'x12'x6'. It doesn't leak and has a pretty level wooden floor. We were going to just remove it since it is no longer needed (we have a nice new big wooden shed for all my Crud).

Well congrats on the new pool!! You will be so happy with the added space compared to the Intex - it will seem like an ocean! I can't speak for wedding cake steps since I have Biltmores - I believe they are about 25" wide and go out from the wall about 36" - the reason I chose them is that they have a "flow through" design so the water/circulation goes through them and I have never had a problem with algae as some people do. You do have to have the correct weights to keep them down, but that applies to wedding cake steps too - we have a member who came up with a great idea using PVC filled with concrete and capped with eyehooks drilled in so they can be tied up and pulled out as needed. WAY better than using sandbags in any of the steps.

Thanks for the info on the Biltmores that's what I need to know and 3 feet into the pool is not bad and I can certainly live with it in order to have some nice stable steps (will make the wife happy too).


Greg

 

[tmyers]

Greg, on #5 on your list, it's my understanding that you should not cut the new liner out for the skimmer or return until you have water filled to there locations.

 

[GCS]

Greg, on #5 on your list, it's my understanding that you should not cut the new liner out for the skimmer or return until you have water filled to there locations.

Hmm good thought, guess I didn't even think about that to be honest with you.

Greg

 

[dmanb2b]

Greg...congrats...the only thing to check on with the county is that you may need up to a 33' level circle around the pool, unless there is a fence on the pool wall.

In my town if you are using the pool wall as a 4ft barrier you have to ensure the surrounding ground going out 3ft is at the same level. If I decided to backfill up to the pool wall, I would have had to add fencing to the top of the pool.

Just something to check on with the town, if you need to get a permit/approval.

 

[GCS]

The county is a pain but all we have to do is have removable steps to not need a barrier permit. Our yard is already fenced in so we are good there as well.

Crummy part is that I need a $125 regular permit, $99 electrical permit, 3 sets of drawings for pool placement with all measurements, 3 sets of schematics of the pool but they said I can get the permits in one day (ie come in, wait and get it that day). I guess that's not too horrible.

Property line offsets messed us up as we wanted to put it close to the house and next to our deck that we are redoing but no can do thanks to my weird shaped yard. We decided to bite the bullet and eat up most of our yard for the pool instead (hopefully I won't regret this decision ... yikes)

Greg

 

[NWMNMom]

We just replaced our liner and added many of the items you have listed. With the wall foam you will want to be sure you have enough adhesive as the recommended amount was not enough for ours and we had to run for more. Install floor pad, then wall foam, then cove - have extra spray adhesive to get good, tight cove placement. Cut wall foam out almost 2 inches more than skimmer and return holes so it doesn't interfere with the gaskets. Wait until water is about 6-8" below return before cutting skimmer and return holes in liner.