Couple of questions on the Liquidator...

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flyboy320

flyboy320

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2009
238
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
I have a Hayward in line chlorinator which uses the chlorine pucks. It is plumbed so that one line is tapped at the pump exit, and the other is tapped just after the heater (my equipment order is pump, filter, heater). Can I use these existing lines, or does the Liquidator need to be plumbed at the pump inlet/suction?

I assume that the chlorine/water mixture is introduced prior to the equipment (ie. pump, filter, and heater). Is there any concern over this, or is it such a low concentration that it doesn't matter?
 
The liquidator relies on the low pressure that exists on the suction side of the pump to get the chlorine into the system, so you could perhaps use one of the pressure side openings for the LQ and then the pump strainer basket drain for the suction side.
 
As Dave said, it needs a connection at the suction and discharge of the pump to work. The discharge connection is used to fill the LQ and the suction connection is used to feed the chlorine into the system. There's no concern with adding the solution before the equipment.
 
It works just ok as it comes but with the 3/8" mod I can peg the flow meter out! I believe I could maintain shock level with the LQ now. I recommend to anyone to go ahead and do the 3/8" line mod even before the ever install the unit the first time.
 
One note: when doing the mod it's not necessary to drill the holes in the float valve shrouds. Doing so opens you uip to possibly damaging the float valves. Which has been reported happening a few times. It won't increase the flow because the limiting factor is the nozzle which you can't (and don't need to) change.
 
flyboy320 said:
I assume that the chlorine/water mixture is introduced prior to the equipment (ie. pump, filter, and heater). Is there any concern over this, or is it such a low concentration that it doesn't matter?
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I tested my water by opening the union on the pump outlet enough to get a sample. It was only 2 or 3ppm higher than the pool water.
 
Bama Rambler said:
One note: when doing the mod it's not necessary to drill the holes in the float valve shrouds. Doing so opens you uip to possibly damaging the float valves. Which has been reported happening a few times. It won't increase the flow because the limiting factor is the nozzle which you can't (and don't need to) change.
Click to expand...

Agreed!! I learned it the hard way.
 

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That is the right stuff. You really don't need the thick walled stuff. I didn't order the UV resistant stuff either. Partially because I just figured I replace it in a couple of years and because my equipment is under a shed. Here's what I bought.

I odered 10' and had to be careful about routing in order to have enough. I wish I had ordered more.
 
flyboy320 said:
Great, thanks for everyone's help... :wink:
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I actually got the required tubing from Lowes. It might not be tygon tubing, but its black (I hated looking at cloudy tubing), the correct diameter for the mod, and CHEAP. Something like 20 cents/ft. I wanted 20' (I have my LQ in a nearby storage shed), the roll probably had 35' left, Lowes guy just gave it to me for the price of the 20' I wanted....score!
 
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