Trying to restore green Pool

[newpoolguy17]

Me and my wife bought a home that had a pool that is roughly 10,000 gallons running on a cartridge filter.

The pump has been off for 6 months and there was lots of leaves and debris in it. I spent 3 days raking everything out and ran the pump for 72 hours (had to clean the filter every day b/c pressure kept going up).

We tested the water with the test strips and everything looked ok, but the FC read 0. We went to Leslies Pool and they told us to just add 1LB of shock (cal-hypo) to the water. The water went from green to blue over night, but I was still getting a 0 reading for FC. We went back to Leslie's and they said just through in 5LBS of shock (even though each bag is recommended 16,000 gallons). So hesitantly I did that at 9pm.

These are readings I got from test strips BEFORE I dumped in the 5 bags of shock:

FC: 0
PH: 7.2-7.4
CYA: 30-50ish
Alkalinity: 80-100
TDS: 800ish

In the morning I tested with test strips again (the pool looks bluer and I can see the bottom) and I got these results:

FC: Above required ppm (color was on the high end of the scale)
PH: 7.8-8
CYA: 30-50ish
Alkalinity 80-100
TDS: 800ish.

I was happy b/c finally I got a chlorine reading. I noticed the PH was real high so I added the recommended dosage of HTH PH minus and went to work letting the pool run.

After I got off work, I took a sample of water to Leslie's and had them give me more accurate numbers and this was what I got from them:

FAC: 0
TAC: 0
PH: 7.4
Alkalinity: 90
Calcium Hardness: 250
CYA: 40
TDS: 900
Phosphates: 200

When I tell them about getting a reading on chlorine this morning, they just say it is either it got bleached out b/c of so much chlorine (even though they recommended it!) or all the chlorine went to work and killed all the bacteria and now I have no free chlorine. He says wait two days and bring in another sample; in the mean time, if it gets greener, add more shock.

I'm so confused right now and feel like they are just giving me a lot of Crud. Every time I go, it is a different sales person so I have to repeat my story every time and seems like they have a different answer.

What does it sound like to ya'll?

I was wondering is it possible that the cartridge filter is catching all the chlorine?
Could the chlorine have all evaporated from the sun?
Or could it just be a bleached out reading?

Thank you for your help.

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP.

Your chlorine could be gone. Algae consumes it very rapidly. We recommend hourly chlorine additions for the first few hours, then every 4 hours, and usually after the first day every 8 hours.

Don't mess with your pH while you have the pool at a high chlorine level. The chlorine interferes with the pH test.

Here are a couple of articles you'll want to read: Defeating Algae

Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis

You may want to have a spare cartridge for the filter to help keep things running during the process.

We like to use the DPD-FAS chlorine test which can measure high chlorine levels so you know where you stand while trying to control algae.

 

[duraleigh]

NPG,

Welcome to the forum. Nothing is wrong with what you are seeing.

Chlorine is consumed by two things...
1. Sunlight
2. Organics (algae) in your pool water

You put chlorine in a green pool and it started to kill the algae but it gets used up doing so.

Chlorine must be constantly replenished in your pool. It may take several days of adding more chlorine before you kill all the algae. Even after the algae is all gone, the sun will consume a small portion of it so you must put it in the entire pool season.

Read Pool School (ABC's of Pool water chemistry) (How to Shock your Pool) and those will answer some of your questions. Post back with more questions after that.!! :lol:

 

[newpoolguy17]

Thanks for the reply guys,

The articles about algae growing back faster than being able to get rid of it sounds scary.

So do you all recommend me adding chlorine every hour until I get a stable reading? If so, in what form should I add it? (Liquid bleach, 1LB bags of shock, tablets?) I've read each form has their own advantages and disadvantages and I'm just as confused as ever. I don't want to just throw money down the drain.

Thank you for all your help.

Oh I've just ordered a TFtestKit from their website and should be coming in soon. In the mean time, I guess it is going to be just test strips.

 

[zea3]

If the CYA reading from Leslie's is accurate then you should stop using powdered shock and tablets. You do not want the CYA any higher if you can avoid it. Also your CH (calcium) looks o.k. so I would not use cal-hypo either. Liquid chlorine or bleach will not add calcium or CYA to your pool. I would use that until you can test with your new TF100. Have you tried using the Pool calculator to determine how much chlorine to add? Also, it would help if you could create a signature and list the details of your pool (size, & finish), brand of pump and size, brand, type and size of filter , and approximate geographical location. Welcome to TFP!

 

[newpoolguy17]

If the CYA reading from Leslie's is accurate then you should stop using powdered shock and tablets. You do not want the CYA any higher if you can avoid it. Also your CH (calcium) looks o.k. so I would not use cal-hypo either. Liquid chlorine or bleach will not add calcium or CYA to your pool. I would use that until you can test with your new TF100. Have you tried using the Pool calculator to determine how much chlorine to add? Also, it would help if you could create a signature and list the details of your pool (size, & finish), brand of pump and size, brand, type and size of filter , and approximate geographical location. Welcome to TFP!

I just ran the numbers on the pool calculator and it say recommended FC shock level is 15. So do I just go back at the top and enter "0" as the NOW and "15" as the TARGET? (As easy as the pool calculator looks, I seem to be an idiot some times to computers). When it says 15, does that mean 15ppm? Thanks again for your help.

I'll try the signature thing when I get all the information. Thank you!

 

[duraleigh]

npg,

The shock process may take a few days. To complete it succesfully, you will find it advantageous to wait for the kit so you can test that FC @ 15ppm.

Meanwhile, you could simply put a small jug of clorox (that's what we're gonna encourage you to use throughout this process anyway) into your pool each evening (pump running). That will pretty easily hold the algae at bay and will probably even help clear your pool. Then, when your kit gets in, perform your own set of tests and post them up and we'll all help you finish the process from there.

You will be quite pleased with how crystal clear your water is gonna' be! :lol:

 

[Heckpools]

i love how leslies ALWAYS tells people, your not seeing chlorine because it bleached out the strip.
SERIOUSLY? you can dip a strip into a cup of straight bleach and still get a reading, and no "bleaching" of the strip... what a silly thing for them to be telling people!

 

[newpoolguy17]

i love how leslies ALWAYS tells people, your not seeing chlorine because it bleached out the strip.
SERIOUSLY? you can dip a strip into a cup of straight bleach and still get a reading, and no "bleaching" of the strip... what a silly thing for them to be telling people!

And I thought only the Houston Leslie stores were giving bad advice...

 

[zea3]

If the CYA reading from Leslie's is accurate then you should stop using powdered shock and tablets. You do not want the CYA any higher if you can avoid it. Also your CH (calcium) looks o.k. so I would not use cal-hypo either. Liquid chlorine or bleach will not add calcium or CYA to your pool. I would use that until you can test with your new TF100. Have you tried using the Pool calculator to determine how much chlorine to add? Also, it would help if you could create a signature and list the details of your pool (size, & finish), brand of pump and size, brand, type and size of filter , and approximate geographical location. Welcome to TFP!

I just ran the numbers on the pool calculator and it say recommended FC shock level is 15. So do I just go back at the top and enter "0" as the NOW and "15" as the TARGET? (As easy as the pool calculator looks, I seem to be an idiot some times to computers). When it says 15, does that mean 15ppm? Thanks again for your help.

I'll try the signature thing when I get all the information. Thank you!

Yes, whatever value you currently have goes into the "Now" column and you get the target value from the Pool calculator's recommendations, and yes it does mean ppm. Meanwhile, follow Dave's advice and add a 96 ounce jug of bleach a day until your test kit comes. Pour it slowly in front of a return while the pump is running and let it mix at least 30 min before shutting the pump off. Also when you buy bleach check the label. You want unscented bleach with a concentration of 6% or greater.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Hi there New Pool Guy - I just wanted to mention since you were clearing up a green pool, now would be a good time to hose off your filter cartridge if you haven't done so already.

Any idea how old the cartridge is? You may want to order a fresh replacement for when this process is complete.

 

[newpoolguy17]

Hi there New Pool Guy - I just wanted to mention since you were clearing up a green pool, now would be a good time to hose off your filter cartridge if you haven't done so already.

Any idea how old the cartridge is? You may want to order a fresh replacement for when this process is complete.

Hi! Yeah I've been hosing down the cartridge filter and replacing it every time I see the psi go up by 10. There was a spare in the garage too. As far as how old they are, I have no idea. I bought a bottle of cartridge cleaner and was waiting to use it once the chemicals get balanced in the pool. You think it would be better just to buy new cartridges? How long do they usually last?

On another note, after pouring the bottle of chlorox in last night, the water got noticeably clearer :-D, but still no chlorine reading on test strips. I checked the test kit status and it is suppose to come in on 5/6. I should of paid more for quicker shipping. In the mean time, since the pool is clearer, I can see a bit of debris at the bottom of the pool that I missed. Would it be ok to try and vaccuum/clean it up, or would it be better to wait for the test kit and put the pool water in "shock mode" first before stirring the debris up?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

How long the carts last depends on the daily conditions to which they were subjected LOL
Lets wait and see what kind of performance you get (with a clear pool). The fact they had spares is a sign to me they cared somewhat.

If you can see visible debris go ahead and vacume it up. I would add 1 small jug of 6% each evening (at least) until the kit arrives - If your test strips don't show the FC at the highest you could add two jugs each evening.

 

[mynewpool]

Good luck on getting your pool clean. I noticed you said you are in the houston area. What part of houston?

 

[newpoolguy17]

frustratedpoolmom: Ok I'll try that :-D.

mynewpool: Thanks! I'm in the southwest area a little before Sugarland.

 

[newpoolguy17]

Uh-oh I don't know if I did something wrong...I hate this pool.

The water was clear and I could see debris at the bottom (some leaves, lots of green sandy stuff) so I plugged in a hose to the vacuum outlet on the side of the pool and the other end to one of those standard vacuum heads (the rectangle plate with wheels and a hole in the middle for the vacuum hose) and thought to suck all the debris and have it trapped in the filter and then just clean the filter when done.

As I vacuumed, it sucked the debris up just fine, but then after a minute, i see it getting sprayed back out of the water nozzles. My pool is hazy greenish again. I took the filter apart and it did catch some debris (I put a new white filter in before starting and after vacuuming it was green).

Did I do something wrong?

 

[newpoolguy17]

Hey guys, I was just wondering, the recommended process is to raise FC to shock level, check 30 minutes later and then raise it again, check an hour later, repeat. Is there anything wrong with over killing it and just raising the FC way above the shock level so that I don't have to check so often?

According to the pool calculator, the FC shock level for my pool size is 15ppm. What if I just over dump chlorine (clorox bleach) into the pool and raise the FC to 25ppm as an example and just check every 3 hours or so. Will it still be as effective?

Reason I ask is I'm working 12 hour days randomly through the week and not currently living in the home because of remodeling so it is hard to find a 6-8 hour block of time to monitor it. This way I can swing by during my break/lunch times and check up on it since it is only 10 minutes away from work.

 

[GApoolmommie]

In the above link Turning Your Green Swamp.... Jason says that once the green starts to fade you need to brush everything and maintain the shock levels. If it is staying at 15 and since your CYA is below 60, check it in the mid afternoon and bring it back to shock level if necessary.
So at this point in the process you should be able to check in am, mid afternoon and evening, and if the mid afternoon level is staying at shock level then you should be fine without that one, if it is not you wil need to keep doing that until it holds. And then keep at it as much as posible and when you have days off really tackle the job, it will clear much faster if you can just focus on it for a couple of days. Also with the vacuum, it is fine, when you have major gunk it will clog a filter quick, you may want to try vacuuming to waste, if you can. And I think anyone who has ever had to clean a swamp has done that at least once we did it a couple of times! It will get better and with the help of TFP you will love caring for your pool.

P.S. most Leslies give bad advice at some point, some more often!

 

[JohnT]

Hey guys, I was just wondering, the recommended process is to raise FC to shock level, check 30 minutes later and then raise it again, check an hour later, repeat. Is there anything wrong with over killing it and just raising the FC way above the shock level so that I don't have to check so often?

It depends on your pool surface. Concrete pools can tolerate the higher shock levels, but vinyl pools could potentially be damaged by using really high levels of chlorine.

 

[newpoolguy17]

Alright, the test kit finally came in and I have a day off tomorrow to really take care of the pool. So far I'm still not getting a chlorine reading.

Here is my game plan:

-Check chemistry of pool with test kit.
-Run Pump
-Dump clorox bleach to bring pool water to shock level
-After 30 minutes retest for FC and bring back up to shock level if it went down
-Scrub the entire pool and vacuum up all the debris while waiting between tests.
-If shock level holding after 30 minutes, wait an hour and retest
-If shock level holding after 1 hour, retest every 4 hours.
-In between test, continue to clean and scrub everything (Pool will most likely get really hazy and green during the scrubbing and stirring of debris). Also I will be changing and cleaning the filter as the pressure builds up from the cleaning

How does this sound to everyone? Tips? Advice?