Equipment Advice /Moving Equipment Pad

[skinsfan44]

My wife and I purchased our house 3 years ago, and it came with a pool that is roughly 20yrs old. Last year we replaced the liner and purchased a new safety cover. This year, it is time to replace the pump and filter. I have some specific questions related to the equipment, pad location, and plumbing. I have been reading this forum for about three years, and greatly value the knowledge of its members.

Pool:
18x36 in ground, about 28k gallons
2 skimmers, and main drain in deep end
3 functioning returns, 1 closed off (assuming it is for a cleaner?)
1.5 inch piping

Current Equipment:
Hayward 2400-Z2 Filter
1 hp motor, but cant read the model on the pump

Now for my questions:

1) First off, my equipment pad is currently 24ft from the closet skimmer (deep end). Unfortunately, when you walk in to our back yard, it is the first thing you can see. I know I can attempt to hide it, but would prefer to move it against my fence and out of view. Would moving it an additional 15 ft further from the pool cause any issues (if moved, it would be in the neighborhood of 50ft from the closet skimmer)? Would the pump/filter still function adequately? Assuming it is ok to move the equipment, and being that the new equipment will come with 2 inch fittings, does it make sense to convert the 1.5 inch line to 2 inch right away (where they currently terminate), or continue with 1.5 inch pipe to the new location and go to 2 inch when it comes time to attach them to the equipment?

2) Does anyone see any issues with the equipment? I am thinking of purchasing to replace the existing?

Pump: 1 HP Pentair WhisperFlo WF-4
Filter: (I am assuming the 2400 on my current Hayward means 24 sq ft) Reading these boards, more filter is better, so thinking of going with the Pentair FNS Plus – 48
Multivalve: Pentair 2 inch for DE Filters (#261152)

3) In the image below, can I replace that valve with a Jandy 3 way? Why is the one return line going back to the pool before the valve? Could that be for the one I mentioned earlier that is closed off?

4) What is the pipe in the image below called? I would need a new one as it would need to be 2 inch

I have never attempted a project like this before, but am somewhat handy, so hope I can pull this off. Thanks very much, and I am sure I will have more questions based on the feedback received.

 

[JasonLion]

As long as you are getting a new pump, think about getting a two speed pump. You can save a fair bit on electricity to run the pump that way.

15ft should be fine. It will lower the overall efficiency of the system just slightly, but it shouldn't be a big deal. Make all of the new pipe be 2" pipe, that will minimize any loss of efficiency.

Yes, a Jandy 3 way valve would be fine there.

The only concern I would have is the electrical. You will either need to leave an above ground junction box where the current one is or do a lot of extra work to run a new line from the house. To extend the current wires you need to make sure the existing wires are a heavy enough gauge.

The line that goes straight to the pool could be almost anything. You should be able to figure it out by turning of each of the other two and whatever is left must be the one that doesn't have a valve.

 

[Guest]

Moving it should be no problem (I'll draw a little heat for this, but ditch the flex pipe as much as you can in the move!). I don't know about your area, but there are setback requirements here, so you might want to check that before you get too close to the fence! We have to maintain 5' from a property line.

Electrical needs to be 18" below grade. Make sure all of your runs are continuous, if possible (no splices for power, unless in a J-Box) and the light (if there is one) must be a continuous length with no splices. It also needs to be connected in a J-Box a minimum of 8" above the water elevation.

The "tan" pipe is the water coming from the pump to the filter and back to the pool. It doesn't really have a specific name. I guess you could call it the return side of the pump, since that is where the water starts returning back to the pool!

Yes, I would put a three way Jandy where you are asking. No reason not to. As for the rest of the plumbing, you wouldn't hurt anything going to 2" wherever you pick up the 1 1/2", and I would take it as far as you can in both directions if you do go to 2". The 1 HP pump will love 2", but you should be okay with 1 1/2" if you do not go that route.

Last thing: I would consider a cartridge filter I'm just not a fan of the work and small size of the DE filters. If that was my pool, and with a 1 HP pump on it also, I would put a Clean & Clear Plus 420 SF Cartridge filter on there and you won't have to clean it for a long, long time! It will flow well and clean well also. Plus, no backwashing, no buying/dealing with DE, no rolling out the hose, etc.

I hope I got it all! I'll check back later to see what I forgot! Keep us posted on how you do

(Looks like Jason and I were typing at the same time! Sorry if anything is redundant!).

 

[skinsfan44]

Thank you Jason and Simicrintz- I Appreciate the help.

I will change the pump to a 2 speed (WFDS-4), and leave the filter as a Pentair FNS Plus – 48. I have heard that the Flex pipe is Crud and that termites like it(?) so planned to go with schedule 40 PVP. Is it safe to assume that if I dig down a bit, the lines that are going to the skimmers will have an elbow on them so I can attach my 2 inch pipe there? They are coming straight up out of the ground, but would like to put as few elbows in as possible.

As far as the 2 speed pump goes, is the speed switching automatic? Do I need a controller (rather not go that route). The manual/brochure on Pentairs website is devoid of info.

The "tan" pipe is the water coming from the pump to the filter and back to the pool. It doesn't really have a specific name. I guess you could call it the return side of the pump, since that is where the water starts returning back to the pool!

Would that pipe come with the pump? I am having a hard time finding one on line, as I don't know what to call it

 

[JasonLion]

The simplest approach with a two speed pump is to have a manual switch to change speed and to leave it on low speed nearly all the time. If you should happen to need high speed you can turn it up manually and then set it back to low when you are done. If you had a spa you might want an automation system to do the switching for you, but without a spa there isn't much point.

On the tan pipe, you just need a piece of 2" PVC that is threaded on one end. The bend on the other end is usually done with a separate fitting. Sometimes that pipe is made from a 2" threaded nipple, which you cut in two and only use half of.

 

[JohnT]

One thing to be aware of is that your main drain line may be below the normal waterline for the pool. Why is that a problem? Because when you go to cut it, water will come running out. Fast!

You can do it, you just need to be prepared for it. I did it when I built my poolhouse. I was prepared for water, I just didn't expect it to come out so fast, so I ended up having to stick my head and shoulders into 50 degree water

If you go for it, I can fill you in on all the stupid things I did so you can avoid them. It's one of those deals where you just need to plan and have everything handy.

 

[Guest]

On the tan pipe, you just need a piece of 2" PVC that is threaded on one end. The bend on the other end is usually done with a separate fitting. Sometimes that pipe is made from a 2" threaded nipple, which you cut in two and only use half of.

And it will be Schedule 80. Don't try to find it in Schedule 40 PVC!

 

[skinsfan44]

Just wanted to close out this thread by providing pics of the completed project and expressing my thanks to all who provided assistance, especially simicrintz. He was nice enough to respond to several PM's, and steered me to the Pentair cartridge filter which is working great... and it is so nice not to have to deal with the DE powder and backwashing I actually fired everything up for the first time on Memorial Day; just getting around to posting now.

Thanks again!

One thing to be aware of is that your main drain line may be below the normal waterline for the pool. Why is that a problem? Because when you go to cut it, water will come running out. Fast!

JohnT you were so right with this one. Ended up putting a ball valve on where I made the cut so that I could turn the flow off and add the run of Pipe!

The next two pictures show our pool deck after a resurfacing. Difficult to tell from the pictures, but it is actually a cobble stone pattern with a brownish mortar.

 

[Guest]

Very nice work; it really looks great

Please pour a Guinness for me

 

[4JawChuck]

Now that looks like a professional install, nice work!