Can someone point me in the right direction to find info on troubleshooting this. The manuals and Goldline/Hayward websites don't give any detail as to what the cause or solution to this error could be. Thanks in advance!!
Goldline Aqua Plus "No Cell Power"
- Thread starter grantgw
- Start date
Try checking all of the fuses on the main circuit board. You might also remove the main circuit board and check for bad solder joints.
The first place to check is the cable between the power supply/controller and the cell. Make sure both ends are securely connected and that the cable isn't cut or deeply nicked.
If, after checking what Jason suggests, you still have a No Cell Power error, see this:
http://www.nocellpower.com/
You're not the 1st, as you can see.
Scott
http://www.nocellpower.com/
You're not the 1st, as you can see.
Scott
Thanks for the great suggestions and taking the time to respond. I tried looking through the discussion threads but I guess I didn't dig deep enough. I'll update when I get a solution.
Welcome to TFP!!
If it weren't for the 'your post' option - my ability to search would be greatly diminished :lol:
If you still have problems - maybe a computer moron, like myself, will be able to help you :-D
If it weren't for the 'your post' option - my ability to search would be greatly diminished :lol:
If you still have problems - maybe a computer moron, like myself, will be able to help you :-D
No success. Well I did see what appeared to be a burned solder joint; applied some solder to it but still getting "no cell power" indication (following insturctions on nocellpower.com). I saw where someone said there may be another repair for this (other than replacing the entire board). Any other suggestions? Should I have tried to clean of the old solder before applying additional? Thanks for the input.
Just stumbled across this thread - funny that I had the same problem on our old pool but didn't know about the forum at that time - I noticed that if I pushed on the relay it would click and all was well - pulled out the board and saw the burned up solder joint on the backside.
I too was unable to solder the joint back to the board and get good contact, just too much damage, howoever if you look at the layout of the board you will see that "post" is connected to a couple other posts via the trace on the board. I soldered a jumper wire from the affected post to the larger post above it effectively bypassing the trace on the board. I wish I had taken pictures, but if you look at the board you will see a large power wire feeding into the larger post, that is the one you want to tap into and jumper from it to the burned up one.
I attached the photo from the website mentioned above with where I placed the jumper wire from my best recollection. If you have a multimeter you should have continuity between those two points in the picture. If you do have continuity and still have problems then it is somewhere else - possibly the relay itself. Ours worked for the next couple years until we moved.
[attachment=0:3qfo8mea]solder.jpg[/attachment:3qfo8mea]
Steve
I too was unable to solder the joint back to the board and get good contact, just too much damage, howoever if you look at the layout of the board you will see that "post" is connected to a couple other posts via the trace on the board. I soldered a jumper wire from the affected post to the larger post above it effectively bypassing the trace on the board. I wish I had taken pictures, but if you look at the board you will see a large power wire feeding into the larger post, that is the one you want to tap into and jumper from it to the burned up one.
I attached the photo from the website mentioned above with where I placed the jumper wire from my best recollection. If you have a multimeter you should have continuity between those two points in the picture. If you do have continuity and still have problems then it is somewhere else - possibly the relay itself. Ours worked for the next couple years until we moved.
[attachment=0:3qfo8mea]solder.jpg[/attachment:3qfo8mea]
Steve
Attachments
Goldline Aqua Plus "No Cell Power"
Cool!
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=33.087666,-96.648766
mirage said:
Cool!
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=33.087666,-96.648766
Goldline Aqua Plus "No Cell Power"
I don't think it's a reason to avoid - just a repairable bug - we had ours for about 6 years, replaced 1 cell at about 3 years, then replaced whole system with the full automation version and it was running fine for another 2-3 years.
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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?edgd2o
I don't think it's a reason to avoid - just a repairable bug - we had ours for about 6 years, replaced 1 cell at about 3 years, then replaced whole system with the full automation version and it was running fine for another 2-3 years.
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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?edgd2o
Thank you, I have managed to make the solder trick work three times in 10 years now, it took three attempts to make it work this time. make sure you heat up the post sticking through the back of the board on the opposite side and apply the solder to the other so it isn't "cold" bit I will keep this trick in mind for the next failure.
The no power site is no longer up. Does anyone have the info still, or is there another link I can go to? I replaced the cell earlier this summer and now this. The cell is under warranty so I need to make sure it's not the cell and if I can cheaply fix the board then I'll do it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Brandon
Brandon
- May 3, 2007
- 16,823
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The post above shows the board detail and the solder joint that needs to be fixed: Goldline Aqua Plus
.Thank you for the information. I just completed this repair after reading this thread and watching this Aqualogic Salt Water Chlorine Converter - No Cell Power Fix - YouTube. So far so good, we'll see in 24 hours but for now the no cell power alert is gone. thanks again.
On my system, I had to clean all of the surfaces with a wire brush on a Dremel tool before I could get the solder to take. I believe that the problem may lay with the coating on the relay post or wire.
My 'No cell power 1' problem was the 20 amp fuse. A 10c fix. Got a quote of $695 installed for a new pcb. Incredible.
Thank you so much for this information!!! We had this problem happen to us just before closing last season and had no idea what the reason was. But after reading this thread we decided to try and fix it on our own this spring. We also put together a step-by-step guide so we know the steps if it happens again. If you are interested, here is a link to our guide: https://app.box.com/s/g5nxqiuzh7wf6a1jvrr6dg7qqsiw4z82