Paxination's Pool - Updated

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Re: How to lower TA

Pax, wait till you get the better kit - it's unlikely you have CCs since this is a new fill. In any event, proper chlorine levels and sunlight should take care of it if there are any but I doubt the level is 1.

You should keep your FC according to the CYA chart, via liquid or the SWG. If you run the SWG the PH will likely rise on it's own.

Please keep all the posts related to your pool balancing in one thread for consistency and history, so posters answering your questions don't have to search for the backstory... :)
 
I figured it deserved a new topic as this one was originally about lowering TA and then veered off into algae problems! And 5 pages to boot and about 1 hole page was a tangent of its own as everyone else started discussing if intex pumps are UL listed!
 
Ok so here we go. Now that I finally have time and I have my kit. Pretty sweet btw!

FC - 7
CC - 0.5
TC - 7.5
pH - 7.4
TA - 70
CH - Not done, vinyl pool
CYA - 60
Borates 45
Salt - 2800

The water is a bit cloudy but my filter needed changing and I had to vacuum it and I scrubbed it while I was at it. I run my pump 24/7 since my pool is under trees. So I will probably have to change the filter once every week doing that. So I dont need to add anything except a lil salt. My SWG isnt complaining tho. Turned it on to test with the salt level and it worked fine. My suggested range for CYA is 70-80 but I think I will let it go to 50 before adding any. Since my FC is a bit on the high side, the lack of CYA will bring it down a bit.
 
Ok so a hypothetical situation! What if my CC was 1.0 or greater? Or better yet at what point do I need to worry about the chlorine levels? I know FC I have to keep at least 3. What about CC? When do I worry about it and what to do?
 
Keep the FC at the recommend range for your CYA and it's unlikely you'll see any CCs. If you do, it's only an issue if they are higher than .5, in which case you would shock, although sometimes just bumping the FC up a point or two and allowing the sunlight to help the rays destroy the CCs.
 
So I decided to do an overnight FC loss test. Mainly bored and just to check it as when I cleaned it the other day there was a frog/toad leg in the pool. Its directly under trees and I see toads on and off when it rains. So I wanted to make sure nothing nasty was brewing. Freaked me out at first. Any who it was 4.0 last night and 3.0 this morning. According to this site 1.0 or less is good. > 1.0 is bad. So I am in good standing.

Now if the rain will stop and the temp stay above 80 I will be happy!
 

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Ok so a question about my pool...

TA 90
FC 24.5
CC 0.5
TC 25
PH 7.5
CYA 60
CH n/a (vinyl)

Ok I am shocking due to my FC dropping to 1 and after getting it back up to at least 5 I had a CC of 1.5.

But that has nothing to do with my question. Just had to explain why the high FC! I am doing an over night FC loss test!

My pH WAS 7.1. I added borax to raise it to 7.5. Now it is there. I thought that when your TA is high, your ph will drift high? Exactly how does TA affect pH? If TA is on the low side will it do the opposite?

Not that adding borax is a problem as it seems from the splash out that it drops enough each week for me to have to add more borax to get my borates around 40 again. So it evens out.

I am just wandering why my pH drops so quickly so much. Is there anything else going on in the pool water that can affect pH as well?
 
The pH reading when the FC level is high (> 10 ppm) won't be accurate, though usually will read falsely high if anything. As the FC level drops, the actual pH will drop as well since chlorine usage/consumpation is acidic. This is why adding bleach or chlorinating liquid has the pH rise, but then it drops back down as the FC drops.

The pH will only drop if there is something acid getting into the pool. A higher TA will have the pH rise over time due to carbon dioxide outgassing, but a lower TA will not have the pH drop though any acidic chemicals getting into the pool will have the pH drop further when the TA is lower.

Most things make the pH rise, including the curing of plaster. So I don't know the cause of your pH drop if you are using only a hypochlorite source of chlorine (e.g. bleach, chlorinating liquid, Cal-Hypo, lithium hypochlorite). If it truly continues to occur, you could raise the TA level to compensate for that though even if you had the TA high enough to keep the pH balanced, whatever acid source that's there will have you need to add more baking soda over time to keep the TA up. That is, whatever it is that is having your pH drop over time also lowers the TA as well.
 
Quoted from another post ... http://www.troublefreepool.com/swg-pool-t23068.html#p190047

NWMNMom said:
You need to get your CYA up there to an appropriate amount for a SWG pool (usually around 70) and your FC at about 2-4ppm. I'm thinking your PH may be hanging right on the edge of low - perhaps watch that, but since SWG usually result in PH drifting upwards you may be OK - just keeping an eye on it.
Click to expand...

Is this correct? Since my TA with it in a higher range (90) and I have a SWG which should make it drift....my pH should raise instead of drop. As chlorine oxidizing produces acid (i think, too tired to read couple of post up) my pool loses about 3-5ppm of FC a day (about, my cya was 50, its 60 now, just added 4oz, and will test again next week, might be why) it might be enough to lower it but I figured it would be more stable than anything.

If I should raise my TA, since its at 90, how much higher should I go? Give or take?
 
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