green tint to water

I have just installed a salt system to my pool.. I got a pool guy that got all the levels perfect the water was blue and perfectly clear.. then all of a sudden after a rain the deep end starting getting a yellow tint to it.. I called the pool guy.. he says probably pollen then he gets there and says he wasnt really sure what it was. He then proceeds to shock it. I left came back an hour later and the water was completely green.. but it is still really clear. just tinted green.. I have the circu pool rj45 chlorine generator. After reading some post i assumed possible metals in pool.. I took a sample of water to Leslies pool store and they said i had 0.5 of iron in pool so I bought metal free. I added it and still is green.. but very clear.Should I continue to run the salt system while this is circulating?Does this sound like a metal problem?
 
Welcome to TFP.

It does sound like your metal is the problem. There is an article in Pool School that has some information that might help Metals in the Water and Metal Stains

If you could provide some information about your pool (age, size, equipment) and your water test results, particularly chlorine and pH, we can give you more specific information.
 
ok cool thanks.
My info is 10 year old vinyl pool with hayward super pump hayward filter.
circupool rj45 chlorine generator
I am going to go get my test done again today cause i lost the paper but I do remember the chlorine was high cause i had just shocked it.. It was 5 and the
ph was 7.8
alkalinity was 200
phosphates 0
stabilizer 60
i put a liter of that metal out in yesterday and it is starting to look a little better but it is still light green rather than dark green.
 
How big is the pool? a liter may not be enough....
Also your PH and TA are way too high for an SWG - you need to lower the PH down to 7.2 (which should help with the metals issue too) with Muratic Acid - ASAP and start to Lower the TA

See this article
Lowering Total Alkalinity
and this one
Water Balance for SWCGs

Hope this helps - post back if you have questions...
 
There is a good chance your chlorine is substantially higher than that. Most pool stores can't test chlorine higher than 5ppm. If that's the case, your pH test is unreliable as well.

I'd try more sequestrant.

How much water does your pool hold?

Is this the first time you've experienced metal problems? What is the source of your fill water?
 
im sorry my alkalinity was 80..
my source of water is city water but they have been working on the pipes a lot around my house lately and i have noticed a egg yolk yellow color to the water in the tub lately..my pool is a 23000 gallon pool.Not sure if this has anything to do with it but there was rust spots all around my pool where the bank had put a metal cage over it last year before I bought the house... no problems last year but I did pressure wash the deck a couple of weeks ago so i am wondering if some of the rust got pressure washed into the pool. I am goin now to test my water again i will let you know the exact results. Also has anyone heard anything about this circupool system?rj45
 
The Circupool seems to be a reasonably good, though somewhat basic, SWG. It has proven somewhat popular because of the low price, but there still aren't enough of them out there to know much about their long term reliability.
 
Okay I just got back from a more reputable pool store.. they tested my water and these are the results
free chlorine 0.6 ppm
total chlorine 0.6
combined chlorine0.0
ph 7.4
hardness 270
alkalinity 90
cya 30
copper0.01
iron 0
phosphate 0ppb
salt 4100
I did add that metal free so I guess it seems to be working.. my pool does look a lot better than yesterday but still has a light green tint to it.
 

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Based on the size of your pool I think you need another liter of the metal free sequesterant.
Also your chlorine is too low - refer to the CYA chart and raise your FC up to your target. I'm a little concerned something else is happening - your chlorine should not be dropping that much especially if the SWG is operating properly.
Pour very slowly, with the pump running in front of the return jet. IF it starts to turn green again, keep adding sequesterant in small doses until the blue color returns.
You should do an Overnight FC Loss Test.
Do you have your own test kit?
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
I'm a little concerned something else is happening - your chlorine should not be dropping that much especially if the SWG is operating properly.

True. I think your CYA is too low. If your SWCG is working properly, you may not ave it running for enough time relative to how long you run the pump. A CYA of 30 combined with not enough on time for the generator will lead to a low FC. You can increase the CYA to 50 an and see what happens. My bet is the FC will go up. What's your on time for your generator?

Agree with adding more sequestrant. I dont think 1 quart was quite enough. And, an overnight chlorine loss test would be good once the FC is a little higher. This would rule out
FC loss due to organics.
 
yes I was thinking the same thing on the chlorine.. it seems here lately every time i test the water the chlorine is low.. i just had my salt system installed two weeks ago so the system is brand new.I run the pump from 9am to 5 pm 7 days a week.. and here lately sometimes 24 hours to get the pool clear.i will take you up on that extra liter of metal free i will go buy it asap. what is a good stabilizer to use.. i have been using that liquid conditioner you buy at leslies. Is this pretty good?I hope this salt system is working correctly.. it has the foggy look at one end of the cell so I assume it is.. Is there anyway to test it to see if it is producing chlorine? also how do you do the fc test overnite? THANKS for all the help im new to this
 
You pay more for the liquid - granule is cheaper it just takes a couple days to dissolve. We recommend the "sock method".
I think you are fighting organics and that's why the SWG can't keep up. Two things consume chlorine, organics and sunlight. I think your issue is both.

In my post up above, I gave you the link to the overnight FC loss test (the blue highlighted words, if you move your cursor over the words, you'll see it's a link :)) The swg has to be off for it to be accurate.
 
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