Pool opening for the season

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Johnny B

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Mar 19, 2009
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Charlotte, NC
Just opened pool today. I can test everything in 1 hour after the pump runs except the CYA, right? Or you guys just wait 24 hours for everything (makes more sense)?

Pretty sure the water is reasonably clear (cover still on, will be off in a few hours- long story), probably a yellow tint from all the yellow pollen. Usual organic debris that needs filtering & netting etc.

Mostly posting this to start my own thread so frustratedpoolmom sees it; she & others walked me through a difficult 1st start up last year, so I’m still a rookie at year #2. I shouldn’t require as much attention this year.
Brand new sand filter. I will not miss that DE filter.
 
You can test the CYA after an hour also. The thing with the CYA test is just that if your water is cold, it may not give you an accurate result. You can take the water for your CYA sample indoors and let it warm to room temperature first and then check it and it should result fine for you.

So yes, get your pump running and filtering. Scoop out any debris that you can and after an hour or two, run your tests. We can go from there. :goodjob:
 
4/15/10
6:30pm
pH 8.2 or higher
TA 90
CYA 20 & I could still see the dot, used entire sample
Borates 30
Water temperature 61F
Water is clear, can see the bottom which is green/yellow as are the walls (far less so) but there has been an enormous amount of pollen lately- but the water is reasonably clear.
FC 0.5 to 1
CC: 0 huh?!
Problem: Testing for FC & CC; I couldn’t get the solution to turn pink until about 6 scoops of powder & waiting about 5 minutes & even that is questionable, far more clear than even “REALLY light pink”. I did notice color change when I went to rinse the cylindar with tap water. Yes it was at the 10ml mark.
Put a scoop of powder in tap water & it wasn’t much different, yes it was again at the 10ml mark. Neither got pink/red like I am used to. Is my powder bad?

I am going to put in 91 oz of acid ( in 2 parts over a ½ hour period with a re-test before the final acid dose ) & wait to hear from you guys.

I assume you will advise me to start the shocking process?
A CYA of 20 means a Shock target of 10, so 390 oz of bleach, right?

The recommended level of CYA is 30-50. Do you want me to add stabilizer or just start shocking?
If stabilizer, then I can start shocking how soon after the stabilizer is added?
I’d like to shock all night- I’m free. I’ll check in routinely

It is ok for me to delay the CH test or not?

Thanks
 
Oh gosh you went offline....I hope you aren't adding that much!!!

Your FC solution didn't turn pink after two scoops because you have no FC in the pool. The tap water may not have chlorine either. Use the OTO test - if chlorine is present in the pool or the tap water, the OTO test sample will turn yellow. If it turns yellow then there is a possibility your powder is bad (I doubt it.)

A CC of 0, ha ha you aren't used to that are you.... :)

Go ahead and get the CYA in the sock going. It's okay to shock while the CYA is dissolving.

Just get the PH straight before you begin to shock. Remember a FC over 10 and the PH will read false high so don't try to adjust it while shocking.
 
FPM has fast fingers...


Sounds like you don't have any CYA or chlorine in it! I doubt the powder is bad, but you could always test a drop of bleach in a cup or so of water, just to make sure.

Shocking will be easier if there is some CYA in the water, so that your FC doesn't get eaten up by sunlight. If you happen to have any dichlor "shock powder" around, you can raise both at once by adding that. If not, granular CYA (stabilizer) and bleach will do it. I think you can add both at the same time, but the CYA level will take a little while to rise.

Why would you delay the CH test, out of reagents? It probably hasn't changed too much since fall, but you should do it when you can. I don't think it's terribly urgent.
 

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Melt In The Sun said:
FPM has fast fingers...


Sounds like you don't have any CYA or chlorine in it! I doubt the powder is bad, but you could always test a drop of bleach in a cup or so of water, just to make sure.



Why would you delay the CH test, out of reagents? It probably hasn't changed too much since fall, but you should do it when you can. I don't think it's terribly urgent.
Click to expand...

I did the bleach in a cup a water, pinked up so powder is good.

I'll get the CH test tomarrow. I wanted to get pH & shocking going because I have time all night & the next few days.
 
Back from my neighbors who loaned me :
1- Shock Plus by Aqua chemicals, sodium dichloro-s-triazinetionw 58.2%; Other ingredients 41.8%. A 1 lb bag treats 12,000 gal. I have six 1-lb bags

2- Cyanuric acid 100%, “Stabilizer”; granules (or near powder?). Directions say to broadcast but I read that TFP advises in a sock in from of the return, is that correct? Not a sock in a skimmer? Not nylon stocking?

3- the 3 inch jumbo tabs mentioned above; tri chloro s... 99.4%). These are mine I had on hand from the old days

What is the best way to go? As directed on the labels or a better idea.

Get the pH ideal before starting anything.

I’m away a few minutes to check the pH & backwash.

Thanks
 
It sounds like your FC level is zero and your tap water has CC, not FC (which is normal/fairly common these days).

If your filled the CYA view tube and you could still see the black dot, your CYA level is zero.

To raise CYA, I would us Cyanuric acid 100%, “Stabilizer”; granules. You can either pour it very slowly into a return and then not backwash the filter for a week, or you can put it in a sock/stocking and hang it in front of a return and backwash as needed.
 
You can use 3 of the bags of dichlor, pre dissolve them in a bucket of water and pour slowly in front of the return. That will raise your FC up to 10 and your CYA by 9. Wait an hour or so and test the FC again, and then test again in the morning and see if the FC is holding or not. You can use the other three bags of Dichlor tomorrow to raise it up again. This should raise your CYA up to almost 20, so if you had a little in there to start, it should show up on the test in a couple of days.

If you prefer to go the CYA/stabilizer route - you can use a sock or a nylon, tie a knot in it and set in front of the return or set it in the skimmer so it doesn't block the water flow. This allows you to backwash. If you pour it directly into the skimmer, you can't backwash. Make sense?

Save the tablets. Did you pick up some bleach? :wink:
 

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