No free Chlorine

GHOST

0
Apr 11, 2010
11
South Carolina upstate
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
hey, I just found this site! my pool stays open year round. I let it get out of hand and was needing to get it back under control. The readings were FC 1.1,- TC 8.3,- CC 7.2,- PH 7.2 - TA 90, - CH 333, - CYA 10 - Clear Water, have a few pounds of grandleur shock left before trying the liquid method, need help, do I need to add a lot of chlorine shock at one time or gradually add it, like 2 lbs. a day until I get free Chlorine level to hold. I was getting like a chlorine demand last year and drained pool. don't really want to keep going that route anymore. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. I'm from South Carolina and it is a older pool.
 
Welcome to TFP!

You want to shock the pool, which means adding enough chlorine to raise the FC level to around 10, let it mix for an hour or more, and repeat as frequently as practical and at least twice a day until the FC level remains the same (or +-0.5) overnight.

What are you using to get your test results?
 
Thanks for the welcome! I got them from the local pool store on the 9th and will be converting over to bleach .as soon as I get my new test kit from TFP and just trying to be getting pool closer in line while i"m learning and waiting. Just found this site and man i'm trying to read every few minutes i get free. also I'm using up the 68% calcium hypochlorite, 65% chlorine for shock starting today.
 
Honestly, I suggest you don't use it - it's Cal-Hypo and will raise your Calcium Hardness level which is already at the high end of the scale. I would stick to bleach, or see if they will exchange the shock for "Dichlor" shock instead - that will increase your CYA level, which at 10 - is too low. You want it to be at about 50.

We can tell how much Dichlor to add if they will exchange it for you. We can teach you how to use The Pool Calculator, which helps you calculate the dosing of each chem, how much to add and when.

If they won't take it back, just hold on to the cal-hypo for future use. But you'll need to buy CYA/Stabilizer separately, or Dichlor Shock. Hope that makes sense, post back if this is not clear.
 
Thanks pool Mom, I appreciate the advice and won't use the shock! Tomorrow after work, I will go to rounding up some bleach to start the conversion. I will take a water sample to get it tested for more correct readings and spend the weekend trying to get it back right. I am ordering a new test kit but can't want to wait to get started. the water is crystal clear but it has not been stirred up in a couple days and where i WAS using the hypochlorite, it is laying on the bottom. I'll start brushing, vaccuming, backwashing and get started from scratch. Thanks again PoolMom.
 
YES, you are both correct! it was a bad choice of words for me. The pump is running and water is clear but the granular has been laying on the bottom for a couple of days but I will vacuum it to waste tomorrow. THANKS
 

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GHOST said:
YES, you are both correct! it was a bad choice of words for me. The pump is running and water is clear but the granular has been laying on the bottom for a couple of days but I will vacuum it to waste tomorrow. THANKS

Ghost; Unless you dumped 10 pounds of the "shock" in the pool (cal-hypo) it'll dissolve rapidly as long as there is circulation.
-Don't vacuum it to waste, just vacuum into the sand filter. Then it'll dissolve in the water as the filter runs.

You have to get stabilizer into the water immediately. You loose chlorine to the sunshine in SC fast without it!

a) Add chlorine and bring the water up to shock level; 6% bleach works best. Keep the packets of cal-hypo for emergencies.
-Remember that 'shock' is a verb; it's what you do to the water.

b) Add stabilizer (you can buy it at most wal-mart's in 3# containers).
Remember that it takes up to a week to dissolve so you don't want to backwash until it's in the water.

Enjoy yourself while you learn about how your water reacts as you add chemicals (BBB). By mid summer you will learn to anticipate changes in the water due to parties, etc. and you will be 'pre-treating' the water so that it stays under control.

Terry in NC :cool:
 
Hey all Thanks for the info. Sorry I'm just now getting back to the pool. (had a family emergency), Terry, I started with the chemicals tonight and will post results later. Thanks for the advice. Poolgirl, i read your thread and it was very helpfull and you were right, i had some of the same problems and now maybe I will get it straighten out. PoolMom, I'm reading and learning every chance i get. This is a great site.
 
Just following up from earlier post. water is clear, trying the overnight chlorine test tonight. in the last 5 hours chlorine is holding high, best as i can tell using old test kit. (new one is on order) have been doing alot of reading and cleaning up the pool. so far so good!
 
Yes, it's sparkling now! but, I can't post the numbers yet because the test kit won't get here till tomorrow. Thanks for asking Terry, I was getting frustrated before finding this pool site now I'm excited about getting it back under control again. The weather is really warming up here in SC now so it won't be long now. will post as soon as the test kit gets here.
 
I received the test kit today and learning! Total Chlorine 14 , CC 2.5 , Free Chlorine 11.5 , PH 7.4 , CYA 30 but couldn't get the alkalinity or the calcium hardness test to work right, tried twice and kept counting the drops but wouldn't change colors. will try again tomorrow.
 
GHOST said:
I received the test kit today and learning! Total Chlorine 14 , CC 2.5 , Free Chlorine 11.5 , PH 7.4 , CYA 30 but couldn't get the alkalinity or the calcium hardness test to work right, tried twice and kept counting the drops but wouldn't change colors. will try again tomorrow.
You probably have high numbers and gave up, or it faded out. Use the search function for fading endpoints, you find lots of how-to. Also note that you can use a smaller sample - 10 ml instead of 25 - to conserve reagent and save time. Not as precise, but is there really that much difference between 925 and 950?
 
When you do the TA test - wipe the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth in between drops.

From the Taylor site for CH:
Calcium Hardness Test

1. Rinse and fill large comparator tube to 25 mL mark with water
to be tested.*

2. Add 20 drops R-0010. Swirl to mix.

3. Add 5 drops R-0011L. Swirl to mix. If calcium hardness is
present, sample will turn red.

4. Add R-0012 dropwise. After each drop, count and swirl
to mix until color changes from red to blue.

5. Multiply drops in Step 4 by 10. Record as parts per million
(ppm) calcium hardness as calcium carbonate.

* When high CH is anticipated, this procedure may be used: Use
10 mL sample, 10 drops R-0010, 3 drops R-0011L, and multiply
drops in Step 4 by 25.
 
Hi yall, from the Ghost! tonight results are FC- 15.5 , CC- 1.5 , TC- 17 , PH- 7.5 , TA- 200 , CH- 290 , CYA- 20 I added some stablizer 3lb. in a sock in the skimmer. I appreciate all the help and finally got the TA and CH figured out with all of your help. I will test again tomorrow
 

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