Water still not clear

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sdjcherring

0
Mar 22, 2010
41
Goldsboro, N.C.
I've had my pump running since Tuesday night (24/7) and have kept chlorine in the pool. Tuesday i could not see the 3 foot bottom of the pool. Today the shallow end is very clear. However, the 8 foot end still looks like the water is dirty. I can now see the bottom of the deep end easily but it still has that blurry, haze look. Since Tuesday, i've put 23 (182 oz.) jugs of bleach in.

Since my tester will not go up to shock levels, i took a sample to the pool store Friday morning and the numbers were:
FC- 21
TC-21
PH- 7.2
Alk-155
CH- 170
CYA-85
They told me to add a clarifier or flocculent and that should do the trick.

I tested the chlorine today and it still reads error on the aquachek, meaning its still above 15.

Do i keep pumping the bleach to the pool, add the stuff the pool store gave me, or does anyone have other suggestions?

Thanks
 
Just keep doing what you're doing and be patient. This is a process and you are nearing the end.

PS - It's a good idea to not start a new thread. That way, everyone can follow your "story" and understand the background.
 
Keep adding enough bleach to hold your FC around 20-25ppm until the water is clear.

Yes, you can add too much. The reason for the CYA/FC chart in Pool School is to keep your from overdosing.

Have you looked at that chart and have you read "How to shock your Pool" in Pool School?
 
I've read it. My reason for asking is that my taylor test kit and the digital aquachek will not read high enough for my shock level, and the pool store last read it friday at 21 FC. Therefore, i have no way to know what it is currently. I just wanted to check before i add the last 3 jugs i have. Looks like another run to Dollar General in the morning.
I went out and turned the pool light on a few minutes ago. I can see small particles of something floating around in front of the light (alot of them).


Thanks
 
You can suppement your kit with the FAS-DPD test that tests FC up to 50ppm. Dave has this separate test available at TFTestkits with fast shipping. Link in my sig.

Buying your bleach from any type dollar store has been discouraged by many members. It is found that often the % chlorine is much less than what is on the label.
 
Seeing "floaters" in front a light at night is very common even when the water is crystal clear. So, I wouldn't worry about that.

Sand filters can take several days to a week to get everything out of the water. As long as you continue to see an improvement each day things are going well.
 
We general advise folks NOT to use bleach from dollar stores. It tends to be older, having lost it's strength or in the case of non-brand names it can even be only 3-5% in strength.

Do you have a bottom drain? Is there a way to turn a valve to draw only from the bottom drain to increase the circulation there....
 

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After several months of descaling my pool (AA treatment, keeping the pH at 7.2, and constant doses of sequestrate all winter, there was a heavy cloud of very fine particles floating in the pool. I was advised to keep patience POP=Pool Owner Patience. I had a new Pentair 80 sq ft Quad DE filter (very big for my pool size but did as was advised and purchased the largest one) using cellulose, pump running 24/7 at about 2000 rpm. It took it about 2 weeks to get as clear as in can, considering our very fine particles, some that even a DE filter can't catch. I watched it for over a week, and didn't see any improvement, although it was happening. One morning about a week into the filtering it was suddenly much clearer and I could see the drain. :party: It took another week for for the majority of the particles in front of the light to clear up and has been getting even clearer as time goes on.

My pool didn't have any large debris when I started clearing it nor did it have any dead algae. On the advice of my "Favorite Most Trusted Pool Guy" and our TFP gurus I didn't run the sweep until I saw significant clearing. At that point I was advised to do a manual vacuum being very careful to not stir up the fine particles on the bottom. All of the advice was right on.

POP :wink: POP :wink: POP

gg=alice
 
Thanks for all the advice. As many of you said, time and patience. The water is starting to look nice and almost completely clear. However, as i was brushing around the pool light tonight, what looked like white stuff started coming out in mass. I maneuvered a big piece of it onto the pool brush and once out of the water it looked like green snot. Is this algae? Is there anything in particular i can do to get rid of it or just keep doing what i'm doing? (bleach)

Thanks
 
sdjcherring said:
Thanks for all the advice. As many of you said, time and patience. The water is starting to look nice and almost completely clear. However, as i was brushing around the pool light tonight, what looked like white stuff started coming out in mass. I maneuvered a big piece of it onto the pool brush and once out of the water it looked like green snot. Is this algae? Is there anything in particular i can do to get rid of it or just keep doing what i'm doing? (bleach)

Thanks
Click to expand...

Where was the stuff coming out from?

gg=alice
 
I have a question on my latest numbers. By the way, my water is sparkling clear and ready to swim. (except for the 68 degree temp). My latest numbers done by me are:

FC- 14 Shocked over the weekend
CC- 0
PH- 7.4
TA- 140
CYA- 65
CH- 90

Do i need to try and lower my alkilinity? I think all my other numbers look ok.
Also, for those with a SWCG, what % do you keep your setting on? (20, 40 ..) Do you keep it there regardless of shocking or lower it and then bump it back up as numbers return to the normal range?

Thanks
 
You don't need to lower the TA right away, but it is likely that you will want to bring it down eventually. High TA isn't a problem in and of it's self. But it can cause the PH to rise rapidly, especially if you have a SWG.

It isn't really possible to compare SWG percentage settings between pools, because the appropriate percentage setting depends on the relative sizes of the pool and the SWG, which will be different for every pool.

I generally leave the SWG set as it was when shocking. Others turn the SWG off while shocking. It can work either way, as long as your get the initial shock level of chlorine from somewhere other than the SWG.
 
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