A friend of mine has the Aqua Pure Chlorinator and it is no longer generating chlorine. To test this I tested the pool water at 2.5ppm FC and then I tested with the Chlorinator set to Boost and got water from the return valve and it also tested 2.5ppm FC. I also looked for bubble coming from a return and found none.
He replaced the cell at the end of the season last year, so it is brand new. We looked at it as well and it looks brand new.
I then opened the cabinet, he has a PS4 setup and looked at the control PCB. I can see it go from 90% to boost when I hold the boost button for 10 seconds. The lights say the cell is on and also when it is in the rest period.
When it is on I checked the voltage at the connectors in the panel and the voltage would change from 12.5V to 3V, toggling between the two voltages. When I set it to boost and measured the voltage it stayed at 12.5V with no toggling at all. I thought that the voltage needed to be between 24V and 30V, at least it is for my AutoPilot chlorinator.
I disconnected the cable seeing if it would throw a low current error code, ran it for 5-10 minutes and it never through an error code. Not sure if this should have happened.
I tested the water with salt strips to be 4300ppm Salt, the salinity meter was reading 2800. We hooked up the new salinity tester that came with the new cell and it read 3300.
Flow reports as fine.
So what am I missing? Is the secondary card that generates the cell voltage bad? Ideas on what else to check?
P.S.-is there a way to calibrate the salinity probe like the AutoPilot?