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Thread: Heat Pump Issue

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    Heat Pump Issue

    I have a Hayward HeeatPro HP21002 heat pump. I turned the heater on to heat the pool for the kids to swim this weekend and everything seemed fine. In the first 12 hours the pool went from 61° to 75°. About 16 hours later I went to check the pool temp and it still sat at 75°.

    First, I am sure the thermostat was set correctly. I had it set at 90°. Ambient temp during the day was near 80° while the temp at night was down in the upper 50's to near 60°.

    I'm at a loss as to why it would heat but not all the way up to the temp I had selected. I was thinking maybe a bad thermostat??? The heater was running though. It seems if the t-stat was bad it would shut the unit off. Ideas welcome...
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    The warmer the water and colder the air the faster the pool loses heat and the heat pump gets less efficient. Eventually you reach a point where the pool is losing heat as rapidly as the heat pump can put it back in. If the final four hours were at night then that is probably what happened. If they were during the day, then there might be something wrong somewhere.

    Also, were you using a solar cover? A solar cover dramatically reduces the rate at which heat is lost from the pool.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    The warmer the water and colder the air the faster the pool loses heat and the heat pump gets less efficient. Eventually you reach a point where the pool is losing heat as rapidly as the heat pump can put it back in. If the final four hours were at night then that is probably what happened. If they were during the day, then there might be something wrong somewhere.

    Also, were you using a solar cover? A solar cover dramatically reduces the rate at which heat is lost from the pool.
    It's interesting that you point this out, the final hours were at night. I have a solar cover but I am not using it right now. I don't plan to maintain this temp...just a one day deal.

    I turned the heater off for about an hour this am and fired it back up and it is heating the water again. I'm up to 79° now. This seems to lend credibility to your explanation. What I don't understand is why? I have heated the pool before where the daytime temps were colder than what we saw last night without any issues.
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    Were those other times with a cover on? Is it dryer or windier this time than the others? Conditions affecting evaporation are my guess.
    Geometric 16X36', 16K gal, shotcrete, exposed aggregate plaster, acrylic coated concrete deck/cantilever coping;
    Pentair equipment suite (EasyTouch w/wireless, 2 Intellibrites, Intelliflo VS-3050, C&C 200 Filter, IC-40 SWG);
    Heliocol solar panels, Rocky's Roller, Blue Diamond robot

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    Evaporation rates are the primary cause of heat loss, and as lee32903 suggested evaporation rates can vary quite a bit depending on wind speed and humidity along with temperature.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    I won't pretend to remember what the humidity and wind was like before, but I wasn't using the solar cover. I never us the solar cover. I typically heat my pool once or twice a year and only for a day or two when I do. The cover is a PITA.

    I have a shallow pool and once the temps begin to warm up, the pool follows suit pretty quickly. By summer the pool it too hot and I'm looking for ways to cool it down.
    Pool Specs:
    16,000 gal. IG - Plaster - Auto Chlorinator
    FNS 48 DE Filter - 2HP Centurion Pump (A.O. Smith)
    Hayward HeatPro Heat Pump - Polaris 360

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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    I don't think the following is the direct issue to the heating question but i noticed from the other pics posted of your equip that the clorinator is befor the pump, i read alot on plumbing schematics and equip order and this is very concerning. They say always put the clorinator AFTER that heat/solar heater loop, ect as the LAST thing befor the return to the pool. Reason: the clarine will keep disolving while the pump is off and create a very high concentraion in the piping that gets acidic and will eat the plubming out of your heater something with the metal and maybe the heat, so the check valve a see is good But during operation the heater constant ly gets a big shock of clorine on startup and all the time the pump is running. the concentration in the stream is higher than whats in the pool itself.
    I looked into a heatpump and would love one, but the money is not there right now, I hate to see yours get eaten out. The installer should have advised the clorinator be moved (assuming it was there befoe the heater which looks new) This is basic pool technician knowlege. I belive on a manufactures website they said to run at least 3ft out pipe out of the heater, then a check valve(prevents clorine from migrating during pump-off time), then the clorinator.
    I found two references http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/320Chlo ... der_UG.pdf
    and http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/CheckValveIG.pdf
    As a fellow DIY I felt I had to say something after seeing your equip. pics.
    20,000 gal. 32' x 17' freeform custom pool, 3ft. shallow - 8ft. deep end, Pentair Whisper flow 2.2 HP WF-6, Purex/Triton Nautilus FNS48 DE filter, 2 Intex Chlorine Generators (retired) SR Smith Rouge Rapids curved slide, The Pool Cleaner 4-wheel model w/Hayward large leaf canister. Tightwatt pool timer Spa: Beachport 5 person/350gal. Wishlist: move Neiko Tools pump to slide, solar system, Fountain, Automation. http://www.poolcalculator.com/

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    civicturbo, did you post this in the right place? I don't see any equipment pictures anywhere in this topic.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    The pics are in one of his older post about trouble with the same equipment
    Attached Images Attached Images
    20,000 gal. 32' x 17' freeform custom pool, 3ft. shallow - 8ft. deep end, Pentair Whisper flow 2.2 HP WF-6, Purex/Triton Nautilus FNS48 DE filter, 2 Intex Chlorine Generators (retired) SR Smith Rouge Rapids curved slide, The Pool Cleaner 4-wheel model w/Hayward large leaf canister. Tightwatt pool timer Spa: Beachport 5 person/350gal. Wishlist: move Neiko Tools pump to slide, solar system, Fountain, Automation. http://www.poolcalculator.com/

  10. Back To Top    #10

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    20,000 gal. 32' x 17' freeform custom pool, 3ft. shallow - 8ft. deep end, Pentair Whisper flow 2.2 HP WF-6, Purex/Triton Nautilus FNS48 DE filter, 2 Intex Chlorine Generators (retired) SR Smith Rouge Rapids curved slide, The Pool Cleaner 4-wheel model w/Hayward large leaf canister. Tightwatt pool timer Spa: Beachport 5 person/350gal. Wishlist: move Neiko Tools pump to slide, solar system, Fountain, Automation. http://www.poolcalculator.com/

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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    Plumbing is correct. The higher pipe on the heat pump is the discharge line with a check valve between the heat pump and the chlorinator.
    Most likely significant heat loss at night time with the cool temps and an uncovered pool. Also, do you have a blower or were the air controls opened to aerate the jets? You would be just injecting the colder nightime air into the water if you did.
    Sean Assam - Sean@teamhorner.com
    National Accounts and Commercial Products Manager
    AquaCal Heat Pumps www.aquacal.com
    AutoPilot Salt Chlorine Generators www.autopilot.com

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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    Aquacal rep tells me my pressure is to low to run my heat pump.
    any idea what could cause this?

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    Re: Heat Pump Issue

    What did your rep say exactly? It's strange that he would just give a response like that without a solution.

    Your comment is lacking information to give an answer.

    There's low Refrigeration pressure and there's low water pressure?

    Low water pressure is usually related to insufficient water flow through the heater or a bad pressure switch. You need about 30 -70 gpm to the heat pump to properly activate the water pressure switch.

    Low refrigerant pressure usually requires HVAC service to the refrigerant pressure or a bad circuit board.
    Sean Assam - Sean@teamhorner.com
    National Accounts and Commercial Products Manager
    AquaCal Heat Pumps www.aquacal.com
    AutoPilot Salt Chlorine Generators www.autopilot.com

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