After 3 weeks.... corrosion!!!

[Guest]

I told them (pool store) about my stabilizer being at only 30, but they said it's ok, we are at the end of the season. They didn't want me to have a chlorine problem if the stabbilizer gets to high. Even in my post here:

http://www.troublefreepool.com/viewtopic.php?t=1898

people kind of said don't add more stabilizer :?..... I'm lost.
I read the thread and the very first answer told you to add stabilizer. The rest of the answers did NOT address your question directly and I believe they just confused you. I have a lot of experience with salt pools and can tell you the higher stabilizer level will allow you to turn the output on your generator down. This will have several effect, the most important being that your pH will not rise as quickly since there will be less outgassing of carbon dioxide and your salt cell will have a longer lifespan.
My salt level is 3100ppm (Aquatrol reading), the pool store says 2500 ppm, but I don't belive that. I put 7.5 bags (20KG each).
That should bring your salt level up to about 2800 ppm assuming a pool volume of 1400 gal. (24' x 4 ' depth). If you pool is deeper than the pool store test is probably right. Your salt level is too low. Get yourself some AquaChek salt test strips and test it yourself. The readout on the Goldline uinit can be off by as much as 600 ppm and still be considered correct for technical reasons that I won't go into here so the two tests are actually in tolerance!So your recommendation is to ADD stabilizer and get it to 60 ppm. I don't think it will help on the corrosion problem, but I can do that easely.

You are aslo saying that grounding the pool will not help to stop the corrosion.

What else should I do?

For starters get your CYA up to 70 ppm, your salt to 3200 ppm and replace the galvanized screws with stainless ones! IF the corrosion is being caused by the generator and not just the salt level lowering the output will help (although I believe it's just because the screws are not stainless.)

I would also try to find a different pool store that knows a bit more about salt pools!

 

[BIC]

I told them (pool store) about my stabilizer being at only 30, but they said it's ok, we are at the end of the season. They didn't want me to have a chlorine problem if the stabbilizer gets to high. Even in my post here:

http://www.troublefreepool.com/viewtopic.php?t=1898

people kind of said don't add more stabilizer :?..... I'm lost.
I read the thread and the very first answer told you to add stabilizer. The rest of the answers did NOT address your question directly and I believe they just confused you. I have a lot of experience with salt pools and can tell you the higher stabilizer level will allow you to turn the output on your generator down. This will have several effect, the most important being that your pH will not rise as quickly since there will be less outgassing of carbon dioxide and your salt cell will have a longer lifespan.
My salt level is 3100ppm (Aquatrol reading), the pool store says 2500 ppm, but I don't belive that. I put 7.5 bags (20KG each).
That should bring your salt level up to about 2800 ppm assuming a pool volume of 1400 gal. (24' x 4 ' depth). If you pool is deeper than the pool store test is probably right. Your salt level is too low. Get yourself some AquaChek salt test strips and test it yourself. The readout on the Goldline uinit can be off by as much as 600 ppm and still be considered correct for technical reasons that I won't go into here so the two tests are actually in tolerance!So your recommendation is to ADD stabilizer and get it to 60 ppm. I don't think it will help on the corrosion problem, but I can do that easely.

You are aslo saying that grounding the pool will not help to stop the corrosion.

What else should I do?

For starters get your CYA up to 70 ppm, your salt to 3200 ppm and replace the galvanized screws with stainless ones! IF the corrosion is being caused by the generator and not just the salt level lowering the output will help (although I believe it's just because the screws are not stainless.)

I would also try to find a different pool store that knows a bit more about salt pools!

waterbar,

For the last 2 days, I have been adding Stabilizer everyday. I don't add to much in one shot, I just add a bit everyday and check with strips the day after. I know it can take a week to get dissolve in the water.

All pool stores (3 in toal) in my area told me that the stabilizer (CYA) was ok even if it was qround 30. I do not see the link between stabilizer and the rust problem I have. Stabilizer is only used to protect chlorine against the sun, right? In every test water I did, my FC was always between 3 and 6, so I thought, I don't need more stabilizer. Could someone explain to me why I should add stabilizer if my chlorine is 2 - 3 ppm? Also, what is the link between stabilizer and corrosion in my pool?

I'm adding stabilizer anyway

BIC

 

[Guest]

I told them (pool store) about my stabilizer being at only 30, but they said it's ok, we are at the end of the season. They didn't want me to have a chlorine problem if the stabbilizer gets to high. Even in my post here:

http://www.troublefreepool.com/viewtopic.php?t=1898

people kind of said don't add more stabilizer :?..... I'm lost.
I read the thread and the very first answer told you to add stabilizer. The rest of the answers did NOT address your question directly and I believe they just confused you. I have a lot of experience with salt pools and can tell you the higher stabilizer level will allow you to turn the output on your generator down. This will have several effect, the most important being that your pH will not rise as quickly since there will be less outgassing of carbon dioxide and your salt cell will have a longer lifespan.
My salt level is 3100ppm (Aquatrol reading), the pool store says 2500 ppm, but I don't belive that. I put 7.5 bags (20KG each).
That should bring your salt level up to about 2800 ppm assuming a pool volume of 1400 gal. (24' x 4 ' depth). If you pool is deeper than the pool store test is probably right. Your salt level is too low. Get yourself some AquaChek salt test strips and test it yourself. The readout on the Goldline uinit can be off by as much as 600 ppm and still be considered correct for technical reasons that I won't go into here so the two tests are actually in tolerance!So your recommendation is to ADD stabilizer and get it to 60 ppm. I don't think it will help on the corrosion problem, but I can do that easely.

You are aslo saying that grounding the pool will not help to stop the corrosion.

What else should I do?

For starters get your CYA up to 70 ppm, your salt to 3200 ppm and replace the galvanized screws with stainless ones! IF the corrosion is being caused by the generator and not just the salt level lowering the output will help (although I believe it's just because the screws are not stainless.)

I would also try to find a different pool store that knows a bit more about salt pools!

waterbar,

For the last 2 days, I have been adding Stabilizer everyday. I don't add to much in one shot, I just add a bit everyday and check with strips the day after. I know it can take a week to get dissolve in the water.
Fist step is to get rid of the test strips (exscept for Aquacheck salt test strips) and get a decent test kit! Second is to calculate how much stabilizer you need to raise the level to the desired range and add it all at once. If you have been adding a little and depending on strips to tell you when you have enought that is not going to be precise enough. Wait a week (while you wait for your test kit to arrive) and then test your CYa and add enough to get the level to about 70 ppm.
All pool stores (3 in toal) in my area told me that the stabilizer (CYA) was ok even if it was qround 30.

Sorry to say it but that means they are clueless about SWGs! I know that's a blunt statement but it's true. Many pool stores are actually clueless about pool chemistry and for many of them SWGs are a very new thing, even if they sell them. Ask how many of them have even read a manual for a unit, let alone actually worked with one firsthand. I bet you get your answer! (For fun you might want to ask them how to lower total alkalinity. I bet EVERY ONE of them tell you to use what is commonly called the 'slug method' even thought this does not work and has even been disproven in the industry. Just ask a question about the 'slug method of lowering TA on here and you will find out what I mean! Don't put too much faith in your pool store, most are unreliable, and I happen to work in one!) A CYA of 30 is going to require running your output at a higher level which will affect the pH stability and the life of your cell.
I do not see the link between stabilizer and the rust problem I have. Stabilizer is only used to protect chlorine against the sun, right? In every test water I did, my FC was always between 3 and 6, so I thought, I don't need more stabilizer. Could someone explain to me why I should add stabilizer if my chlorine is 2 - 3 ppm?
I already have several times! It will allow you to lower cell output that wil mean less outgassing of CO2 because of less hydrogen production within the cell which will mean less pH rise which will mean less acid usage which will mean better pH stability.....
It will also extend your cell life
Do you get it now!

Anyone else want to help me out here, you guys know what Im talking about (JasonLion, PoolSean, chemgeek, anyone?)
Also, what is the link between stabilizer and corrosion in my pool?
A pool with lower stabilizer will actually have a higher level of FC than one with higher stabilizer given that the FC is the same. Most manually chlorinated pools need 3-5 ppm FC with a satabilizer of 30-50 ppm while salt pools seems to do fine with the same FC but stabilizer at 60-80 ppm, probably because of the constant 'supershocking' of the water passing through the cell (but no one is really sure if this is the case). Therefore there is less of a FC level and actually this could mean less corrosive conditions. Whether it is enought of a difference to matter is really hard to tell but every little bit will help, IMHO.
I'm adding stabilizer anyway

BIC

I hope this explains it. If you want all the chemistry behind it I will be more than glad to post it but I try to avoid that because mose people get put off when I start posting chemical equations. I just try and explain the chemistry in practical terms so people can impliment it easily. I deal with a LOT of salt pools besides my own so that gives me a bit of an edge on people that are only looking at this from a theoretical point of view or only have experience with their own pool, no matter how well they understand what is actually going on in the water. Take my advice or don't. I feel I have given you sound advice and you keep questioning it. Sorry, but this is getting just a bit frustrating.

Have you replaced the rusted screws with stanless ones yet? Several posters have told you to.

Are you familiar with Ochkham's Razor? It is a a principle from a 14th century Franciscan friar, William of Ochkham. It is usually stated in modern English as "The simplest answer is usually the correct one." and is often used in modern scientific research as a guide when looking at different explanations for a phenomenom. In your case the simplest fix for your rusting screws is to replace them with stainless ones. Why don't you give it a try and see what happens?

 

[KurtV]

that doesn't look like stainless to me..., i think they are just zinc plated hence the corrosion

I agree with you. I'm sure that they are not stanless steel. Even salt would not do that in only 6 days if they were SS.

BIC

I wouldn't be so sure. Oft times, when stainless steel appears to rust, it's actually embedded mild steel that was left on the stainless by tools. Think microscopic bit of wire brush bristles and the like. Stainless, when it corrodes, gets pitted not rusty looking (though sometimes you'll eventually see some ferri corrosion after the pitting gets bad enough to overwhelm the chormium oxide coating's ability to heal itself).

I'd clean as much rust off those as I could with very fine (400 or 600 grit) aluminum oxide sandpaper and try them again, You'll know with a week or two if they're just zinc coated or stainless that had some tooling steel embedded. I can't imagine that the infinitesimal bit of iron that might get in your water as a result will be enough to cause any problems.

 

[JasonLion]

Anyone else want to help me out here, you guys know what Im talking about (JasonLion, PoolSean, chemgeek, anyone?)

weaterbear - I agree with what you are saying but I think your tone is too harsh.

BIC - Adding a little CYA each day will make it very very difficult to get to a specific value. The level will keep going up for days after you stop adding more, so there is no way to know when to stop. You should add some CYA, wait a week to allow it to disolve, then test it and see where you are.

The simple answer on the best CYA level is that raising the level to somewhere around 60 to 80 will make everything simpler and better. Nothing is going to break or blow up or grow algae if you don't raise the CYA, but there are disadvantages, several of which waterbear pointed out. I don't think your CYA level is a critical issue, but I would aim for somewhere around 60-80 in the long run.

Test strips are especially impercise, compared to drop tests. That means that they only really tell you a range the level is probably in, not the actual level. For many of the tests, particuarly CYA, the range can be quite wide and the difference between the top of the range and the bottom of the range makes a large difference. A good test kit, with the FAS-DPD chlorine test like the TF Test Kit, is the best investment in your pool you can make. It will easily pay you back in saved chemicals, fewer trips to the pool store, and better water quality.

 

[Guest]

Sorry if my tone sounded harsh but I was beginning to feel like a broken record saying the same thing over and over again!

 

[BIC]

I told them (pool store) about my stabilizer being at only 30, but they said it's ok, we are at the end of the season. They didn't want me to have a chlorine problem if the stabbilizer gets to high. Even in my post here:

http://www.troublefreepool.com/viewtopic.php?t=1898

people kind of said don't add more stabilizer :?..... I'm lost.
I read the thread and the very first answer told you to add stabilizer. The rest of the answers did NOT address your question directly and I believe they just confused you. I have a lot of experience with salt pools and can tell you the higher stabilizer level will allow you to turn the output on your generator down. This will have several effect, the most important being that your pH will not rise as quickly since there will be less outgassing of carbon dioxide and your salt cell will have a longer lifespan.
My salt level is 3100ppm (Aquatrol reading), the pool store says 2500 ppm, but I don't belive that. I put 7.5 bags (20KG each).
That should bring your salt level up to about 2800 ppm assuming a pool volume of 1400 gal. (24' x 4 ' depth). If you pool is deeper than the pool store test is probably right. Your salt level is too low. Get yourself some AquaChek salt test strips and test it yourself. The readout on the Goldline uinit can be off by as much as 600 ppm and still be considered correct for technical reasons that I won't go into here so the two tests are actually in tolerance!So your recommendation is to ADD stabilizer and get it to 60 ppm. I don't think it will help on the corrosion problem, but I can do that easely.

You are aslo saying that grounding the pool will not help to stop the corrosion.

What else should I do?

For starters get your CYA up to 70 ppm, your salt to 3200 ppm and replace the galvanized screws with stainless ones! IF the corrosion is being caused by the generator and not just the salt level lowering the output will help (although I believe it's just because the screws are not stainless.)

I would also try to find a different pool store that knows a bit more about salt pools!

waterbar,

For the last 2 days, I have been adding Stabilizer everyday. I don't add to much in one shot, I just add a bit everyday and check with strips the day after. I know it can take a week to get dissolve in the water.
Fist step is to get rid of the test strips (exscept for Aquacheck salt test strips) and get a decent test kit! Second is to calculate how much stabilizer you need to raise the level to the desired range and add it all at once. If you have been adding a little and depending on strips to tell you when you have enought that is not going to be precise enough. Wait a week (while you wait for your test kit to arrive) and then test your CYa and add enough to get the level to about 70 ppm.
All pool stores (3 in toal) in my area told me that the stabilizer (CYA) was ok even if it was qround 30.

Sorry to say it but that means they are clueless about SWGs! I know that's a blunt statement but it's true. Many pool stores are actually clueless about pool chemistry and for many of them SWGs are a very new thing, even if they sell them. Ask how many of them have even read a manual for a unit, let alone actually worked with one firsthand. I bet you get your answer! (For fun you might want to ask them how to lower total alkalinity. I bet EVERY ONE of them tell you to use what is commonly called the 'slug method' even thought this does not work and has even been disproven in the industry. Just ask a question about the 'slug method of lowering TA on here and you will find out what I mean! Don't put too much faith in your pool store, most are unreliable, and I happen to work in one!) A CYA of 30 is going to require running your output at a higher level which will affect the pH stability and the life of your cell.
I do not see the link between stabilizer and the rust problem I have. Stabilizer is only used to protect chlorine against the sun, right? In every test water I did, my FC was always between 3 and 6, so I thought, I don't need more stabilizer. Could someone explain to me why I should add stabilizer if my chlorine is 2 - 3 ppm?
I already have several times! It will allow you to lower cell output that wil mean less outgassing of CO2 because of less hydrogen production within the cell which will mean less pH rise which will mean less acid usage which will mean better pH stability.....
It will also extend your cell life
Do you get it now!

Anyone else want to help me out here, you guys know what Im talking about (JasonLion, PoolSean, chemgeek, anyone?)
Also, what is the link between stabilizer and corrosion in my pool?
A pool with lower stabilizer will actually have a higher level of FC than one with higher stabilizer given that the FC is the same. Most manually chlorinated pools need 3-5 ppm FC with a satabilizer of 30-50 ppm while salt pools seems to do fine with the same FC but stabilizer at 60-80 ppm, probably because of the constant 'supershocking' of the water passing through the cell (but no one is really sure if this is the case). Therefore there is less of a FC level and actually this could mean less corrosive conditions. Whether it is enought of a difference to matter is really hard to tell but every little bit will help, IMHO.
I'm adding stabilizer anyway

BIC

I hope this explains it. If you want all the chemistry behind it I will be more than glad to post it but I try to avoid that because mose people get put off when I start posting chemical equations. I just try and explain the chemistry in practical terms so people can impliment it easily. I deal with a LOT of salt pools besides my own so that gives me a bit of an edge on people that are only looking at this from a theoretical point of view or only have experience with their own pool, no matter how well they understand what is actually going on in the water. Take my advice or don't. I feel I have given you sound advice and you keep questioning it. Sorry, but this is getting just a bit frustrating.

Have you replaced the rusted screws with stanless ones yet? Several posters have told you to.

Are you familiar with Ochkham's Razor? It is a a principle from a 14th century Franciscan friar, William of Ochkham. It is usually stated in modern English as "The simplest answer is usually the correct one." and is often used in modern scientific research as a guide when looking at different explanations for a phenomenom. In your case the simplest fix for your rusting screws is to replace them with stainless ones. Why don't you give it a try and see what happens?

waterbear,

Thanks for the all the nice explainations.

1) I tried to find out the exact same bolts size in SS, but I didn't succeed to find the same size yet. On Monday I will go to a specialized store (they just sale SS bolts, screws, etc.). For the moment I put the rusty ones back on the ladder

2) The salt level. All sotres tell me that I have around 2500ppm. Two stores did test with a digital device. The third one did test with drops (2400ppm) and also with digital device (2600ppm). That same store (third one) used to test (with drops) my water at 3500ppm . It seems that the guy doing the test make a difference .

I bought Aquacheck salt test strips and tested my water 5 mins ago. I followed the direction VERY carefully and I got a reading of 3470ppm . I bought salts but didn't add it yet. What should I do? The different tests seem to vary A LOT.

On the Aquatrol user guide, they say that a new pool without salt should add:

320 lbs (145 Kg) for a 12 000 gallons pool to get 3200ppm
373 lbs (170 Kg) for a 14 000 gallons pool to get 3200ppm

As I said earlier, I did add 7.5 bags of 20Kg (44 lbs) = for a total of 44 lbs * 7.5 bags = 330 lbs of salt

I think I should be ok, but.... some test say I need more. Should I add more?

3) Test Kit. In another post JasonLion recommended me the Trouble Free test Kit or the Taylor K-2006 or K-2006C. I'm still trying to find a safe Web site that sale the Taylor ones. If you have a Web link, put it here, please .

4) I bought stabilizer. I will try to calculate of much I need to get to 60 - 70ppm. I will then add more.

I will wait for your advice

BIC

 

[KurtV]

Just buy the trouble free kit; it's a better value. http://www.tftestkits.com/

 

[BIC]

I could not edit my last post, I gwet an error avery time, so I'm reposting my answer to waterbear:

waterbear,

Thanks for the all the nice explainations, it is very appreciated 8). The thing is, this is my first pool, I have never operate a pool before, so that makes me a super novice knowing nothing about pool. It happens that I went with a SWG, and I realize today that those are NOT QUITE MASTERED by the pool store in my area. My guess is that the SWG are maybe to new around here and as you said nobody reads the manual and the guys at the pool store get an afternoon course from a company and they think they know everything after that. I did realize that in my first few trips to the pool stores. I tried many of them, but none seems to be knowing what they are talking about.

Everything ws going good for me until I noticed corrosion. Then I went on the Web and read all those posts from different people saying that SWG are dangerous and get metal rusted and damade the stones, .... etc. On the other hand, you have many people that are VERY happy with their SWG and would not chenge it for anything else.

I'm just new in the game (pool) and I'm standing in the middel of the board game without any cards (knowledge) in my hand. I just have questions . Waterbear, I do not question your knowledge, you seeem to know a lot, I did follow almost all your recommendations (as fast as I can). However, I cannot change my bolts when I don't find SS ones (same sizes).

Here is where I'm at the moment in my pool game:

1) I tried to find out the exact same bolts size in SS, but I didn't succeed to find the same size yet. On Monday I will go to a specialized store (they just sale SS bolts, screws, etc.). For the moment I put the rusty ones back on the ladder

2) The salt level. All sotres tell me that I have around 2500ppm. Two stores did test with a digital device. The third one did test with drops (2400ppm) and also with digital device (2600ppm). That same store (third one) used to test (with drops) my water at 3500ppm . It seems that the guy doing the test make a difference .

I bought Aquacheck salt test strips and tested my water 5 mins ago. I followed the direction VERY carefully and I got a reading of 3470ppm . I bought salts but didn't add it yet. What should I do? The different tests seem to vary A LOT.

On the Aquatrol user guide, they say that a new pool without salt should add:

320 lbs (145 Kg) for a 12 000 gallons pool to get 3200ppm
373 lbs (170 Kg) for a 14 000 gallons pool to get 3200ppm

As I said earlier, I did add 7.5 bags of 20Kg (44 lbs) = for a total of 44 lbs * 7.5 bags = 330 lbs of salt

I think I should be ok, but.... some test say I need more. Should I add more?

3) Test Kit. In another post JasonLion recommended me the Trouble Free test Kit or the Taylor K-2006 or K-2006C. I'm still trying to find a safe Web site that sale the Taylor ones. If you have a Web link, put it here, please .

4) I bought stabilizer. I will try to calculate of much I need to get to 60 - 70ppm. I will then add more.

I will wait for your advice

BIC

 

[Poolsean]

Kurt, Love the MonteCristo Avitar or whatever you call the pic under your name. I still have the #2 waiting for the right time for me and my wife to enjoy!
Question on the Stainless Steel, don't the symbols on the head of the bolt indicate the grade and type of material it's made of?
http://www.zerofast.com/markings.htm shows some markings on different material bolts (including stainless steel)
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_2.htm shows example of Motorcycle bolts.

BIC, perhaps you can help confirm if your bolts have similar markings?

Waterbear, I agree with everything you've shared and don't think you've been harsh. I know what you're talking about, especially when you're repeating yourself, and still getting the same question on what to do, when what you're recommending is not being done!

Kurt, remember your brother in Houston with all the stone waterfall, BretC? We haven't heard from him in a while.
How many times did we request his water chemistry to be posted, then when he finally did, he decided to post it in a different subject and title altogether.
Turned out his water chemistry was a bit out of balance.

Anyway, BIC, you've asked for assistance with this issue so I hope you're taking the advice that you're being given.

 

[KurtV]

Sean,
I love the #2. I actually think the Dominican is a better smoke than the Habana on a day-to-day basis but a good Cuban is truly sublime. The Nicaraugans seem to have captured the Cuban taste better than any of the other growing areas. I can't wait for the Castro(s) to fall so I can enjoy a beautiful Habana with a clear concious.

They do put the grade/hardness markings on many bolts, but not all.

Chlorides, whether in salt form or as HOCl are major contributors to the corrosion of SS, but I'd be surprised if any AG pool maker would use anything except stainless in the skimmer or on ladders; that's just asking for trouble. I still bet it's stainless that has some tool steel left on it. I'd clean it up and try again (but I'm frugal, or cheap as some would stay).

 

[JasonLion]

I bought Aquacheck salt test strips and tested my water 5 mins ago. I followed the direction VERY carefully and I got a reading of 3470ppm . I bought salts but didn't add it yet. What should I do? The different tests seem to vary A LOT.

Having different pool stores vary a lot from each other and from themselves on a different day is fairly common. Many people here have had very good results with the Aquachek salt test srips. I would trust your test with the salt test strip. You results also fit with the amount of salt you added plus a small amount of pre-existing salt. Unless you have been in the Texas rains recently or replaced 1/3 of your water there is no way your salt would suddenly have gone down as much as the stores say it did.

 

[BIC]

I bought Aquacheck salt test strips and tested my water 5 mins ago. I followed the direction VERY carefully and I got a reading of 3470ppm . I bought salts but didn't add it yet. What should I do? The different tests seem to vary A LOT.

Having different pool stores vary a lot from each other and from themselves on a different day is fairly common. Many people here have had very good results with the Aquachek salt test srips. I would trust your test with the salt test strip. You results also fit with the amount of salt you added plus a small amount of pre-existing salt. Unless you have been in the Texas rains recently or replaced 1/3 of your water there is no way your salt would suddenly have gone down as much as the stores say it did.

It's my Aquacheck strips against 3 different stores with digital (maybe not well blanced) devices. They all come around 2400 - 2600ppm. I really thought that after 330lbs of salt I should be at 3200ppm of salt (24' AG pool).

 

[Guest]

24' with 4 ft water depth would be just under 1400 gallons and 330 lbs of salt would give you about 2800 ppm. If your water depth is less than 4 ft then you would be closer to 3200 ppm. (I am talking about actual depth of the water, not the depth of your pool.) The readout on the AquaRite can be as much as 600 ppm off and still be considered withing spec, btw, which is why it is important to test the salt level. Salt meters vary in accuracy and need to be calibrated. I have found the LaMotte meters to be pretty worthless and they do NOT hold calibration. The Goldline and the MyronL meters are very good, however, IF they have been calibrated. Chemical drop tests for salt are very good if done correctly but the are one of the more difficult tests to do and do require some practice. The strips are pretty foolproof and pretty accurate so I would believe them. The whole trick with the strips is to only put them in about an inch of water and to be sure to let them sit for 5-10 minutes unitl the strip that goes across the top gets dark,, and to only read the chart on the bottle the strip came out of since each bottle is individually calibrated.

As far as test kits, the TF testkit sold on this site is an excellent value for the money and you can also get the AquaChek salt strips from the same source at probably a better price than you are paying now! Check it out ! www.tftestkits.com

IF you want a Taylor K-2006 (basically the same kit with a few minor changes and not as good avalue for the money) then you can order it directly from Taylor or from a number of online merchants.
www.Poolcenter.com has the kit for sale on their website.

 

[JasonLion]

Having three store tests agree and still think the result is wrong is unusual. The salt meters need to be calibrated reguarly and it is simple enough for them to forget to do that or do it wrong. It is also fairly difficult to do the salt drop test correctly. However both of those factors would tend to give you four tests that were all different, not ones that agreed with each other (within the normal variation in the measurements).

I still go with what I said before, trust your own measurement, both because those salt strips are know to be good and because it is very close to what I would expect to see after the amount of salt you added. That is my best guess, though there is clearly room for disagreement on this.

The only way to get more information that might clear up the confusion is to wait a few days and test some more and see what results you get then.

 

[BIC]

The strips are pretty foolproof and pretty accurate so I would believe them. The whole trick with the strips is to only put them in about an inch of water and to be sure to let them sit for 5-10 minutes unitl the strip that goes across the top gets dark,, and to only read the chart on the bottle the strip came out of since each bottle is individually calibrated.

As far as test kits, the TF testkit sold on this site is an excellent value for the money and you can also get the AquaChek salt strips from the same source at probably a better price than you are paying now! Check it out ! www.tftestkits.com

IF you want a Taylor K-2006 (basically the same kit with a few minor changes and not as good avalue for the money) then you can order it directly from Taylor or from a number of online merchants.
www.Poolcenter.com has the kit for sale on their website.

I used the Aquacheck strips. I put one in exactly one inch of water (I mesured it to make sure) and waited until the strip that goes across the top got dark (it took a bit more than 4 minutes). I read the number on the strips and matched it with the one on the bottle. It gave me 3470ppm . I was expecting to get around 2400 - 260ppm like the stores but it didn't go that way. I will retry another salt strip today.

For the kit I will order the Taylor K-2006 or K-2006c. Judging by the picture, they seem to have good documentation. Based on the fact that I have never used a drop kit, I need very good documentation in order to do the test properly. The TF Kit doesn't seem to have a lot of documentation (judging by the picture on the Web site). The price different (K-2006 vs TF Kit) is not that big. I hope the drop kits are not to difficult to use

BIC

 

[BIC]

Having three store tests agree and still think the result is wrong is unusual. The salt meters need to be calibrated reguarly and it is simple enough for them to forget to do that or do it wrong. It is also fairly difficult to do the salt drop test correctly. However both of those factors would tend to give you four tests that were all different, not ones that agreed with each other (within the normal variation in the measurements).

I still go with what I said before, trust your own measurement, both because those salt strips are know to be good and because it is very close to what I would expect to see after the amount of salt you added. That is my best guess, though there is clearly room for disagreement on this.

The only way to get more information that might clear up the confusion is to wait a few days and test some more and see what results you get then.

I will retry today (if the rain stops ) and see what I get. Those differences among the stores is killing me :!:


Question here:

I put up the salt machine yesterday (few hot days and few bathers) and I noticed my eyes hurted when I went in the pool yesterday night. I'm assuming it has to much chlorine, am'I right?

BIC

BIC

 

[JasonLion]

Stinging eyes is usually caused by the PH being out of range. You want your PH to be between 7.2 and 7.8. Did any of the pool stores give you a PH number? Actually, if any of them tested anything besides salt you should post the full set of results.

 

[BIC]

Stinging eyes is usually caused by the PH being out of range. You want your PH to be between 7.2 and 7.8. Did any of the pool stores give you a PH number? Actually, if any of them tested anything besides salt you should post the full set of results.

This is my last water test from the pool store (Yesterday). All is done with a Drop kit:

PH: 7.4
FC: 3
Stabilizer: 30
Total Alkakinity: 80
Calcium (hardness): 140

Update:

I just did another salt test with the Aquacheck salt strip. I got the same result: 3470 ppm.

BIC

 

[Guest]

I used the Aquacheck strips. I put one in exactly one inch of water (I mesured it to make sure) and waited until the strip that goes across the top got dark (it took a bit more than 4 minutes). I read the number on the strips and matched it with the one on the bottle. It gave me 3470ppm . I was expecting to get around 2400 - 260ppm like the stores but it didn't go that way. I will retry another salt strip today.

I would trust your reading with the strips.

For the kit I will order the Taylor K-2006 or K-2006c. Judging by the picture, they seem to have good documentation. Based on the fact that I have never used a drop kit, I need very good documentation in order to do the test properly. The TF Kit doesn't seem to have a lot of documentation (judging by the picture on the Web site). The price different (K-2006 vs TF Kit) is not that big. I hope the drop kits are not to difficult to use

BIC

You will be amazed at how easy a drop based kit is to use. The TF testkit actually has better instructions for a beginner than the Taylor kits. The reagents and tests are identical except that the TF Testkit does not include the acid and base demand tests (They are a guidline at best and most people do not use them) and does include the Taylor K-1000 for daily chlorine and pH tests. All other tests are identical but the TF testkit includes more reagents for the CYA test (the Taylor kit only gives you enough for aobut 5 tests and then you need to buy refills of CYA reagent. I own both kits (and a few others) and I can tell you that the TF testkit is the one I usually break out when I need to test. It really is a better value for the money! Also, if you have any questions on the proper way to use it you can just post them in the forum. Taylor doesn't offer anything like that! Also, the TF testkit has a wider rangeCYA test than the one included in the K-2006. It is the test that is in the 'professional' Taylor CYa test.