Aquarite Not generating - lights not on

[bcobb]

Thanks for this thread! Digikey part ordered,soldered on to new board. No problems! Salt gen powers up with lights on now.

Only bad part....I found that my d$/$;! Dog chewed up the end of my T-15 salt cell! What luck! I've searched for replacement cables and didn't find anything. Anyone know of they make replacement cords? I really don't want to have to replace a perfectly good $300 salt cell!
Thanks all!
Bryan

 

[Julie911984]

Your thread has saved the day twice. First several months ago the flow sensor wasn't working and this took me right to the website to get the part and great tips to troubleshoot and replace. Done success. Then last weekend I experienced the no generating and lights come on and then within seconds click off. I immediately returned to my bookmarked page that brought me here. Ordered the thermistor from Digikey (actually bought two, just in case) and Bam, back in business and generating chlorine and the lights are on. Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experiences. You were spot on.

 

[i8myk8k]

Thanks for the great information. I am having the same problem, no power light, generating light stays on for on a few seconds. Just looked and although not cracked, the circuit board where the current limiter attaches is burned. I ordered the replacement part from Digi-key and await delivery. I am confident this will fix the problem. Thanks again.

 

[jlarkins]

I followed the advice several posted and bought the new current diffuser and soldered them onto the motherboard myself. IT worked and I am now back to a crystal clear pool. A great big thanks to those of you who contributed this information!

 

[p_mori7]

To the top just in case there are new members seeking the information.

 

[Dax13]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPL_YnvWumk

A great video showing all the steps in replacing this part.

Thank you all for not only all the great advice and related video, but for also keeping this thread alive and well. I just replaced my limiter after everyone else told me I needed a new board. I read this thread, watched the video, checked under the hood to make sure mine looked like the others, ordered Wednesday afternoon from Digikey, shipped First Class USPS, hit Radio Shack for soldering iron and braid, and replaced it today, Friday. Works like a champ. $25.00 for soldering iron and braid, $9.00 for two limiters including postage, vs $450.00 for a new PCB. Awesome!


Dax

 

[dirt_dobber]

Well here is my first post. I have been lurking for about a week or so and reading multiple pages of multipool threads.
I have a lot to learn about pool chemistry and am really impressed so far by the knowledge I see here. This is our first pool.

THANK YOU TO ALL IN THIS THREAD!!!!!!!!!

I just purchased this house 2 weeks ago and found out my AquaRite had the "no power light" problems listed on this thead.
I have a big thank you to those offering solutions and links and part numbers. The steps totally prepared me for everything I needed.

I found this page especially helpful https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.513910325344753.1073741826.513908095344976&type=1

not quite sure who to thank for going to the trouble to psot all of those pics.

Thanks again - I am sure I will be back seeking more help in the nerar future.

 

[p_mori7]

You're welcome Dirt_Dobber !
(that's my FB page showing the repair).

 

[richardtallent]

THANK YOU EVERYONE!

Y'all just saved me $190. Replacing the current limiter worked like a charm. The old one had a hairline crack around it, but it didn't look that bad until I started pulling it out, at which point it fell apart.

Here's a hint for the next person who tries this: you'll need a powerful soldering iron. My ancient 30W Radio Shack iron wasn't cutting it, so I got a 60W. Even then, I still had trouble getting everything hot enough, both when clearing the old solder and adding the new part. The pad on the PCB or the limiter or both are surprisingly effective at dissipating heat.

 

[QN311]

BRAND NEW to the Forum. Getting tired of having to make trips to pool store to mess with my chemistry all the time, but I think I found the problem. Just need everyone's generous help to solve it. The symptoms I have are very similar to everyone else on this thread that I read. The ONLY light that is on is the Power light (solid). All other lights don't ever come on or flash when powering on or running. Trying to read the display is a nightmare. the plastic layer on front of LCD has cracked and makes it impossible to read anything. The current limiter looks to be in good shape. No visible cracking or burnt appearance.

- First, I need to buy new Display board to start. Already on that cause the wife is hounding me.
- Do I need to replace the control board as well?
- Do I need to only replace the current limiter?
- Thanks in advance for you help everyone.

Aquarite Electronic Chlorine Generator
Hayward Goldline T-Cell-15 - 40k Salt Cell

 

[poolcat]

Just replaced my SL32 2R025 thermistor this past week. Started my system up at the beginning of the 2007 season, so this will be going into its 8th year. Pool stays open year round with pump typically running 6 hrs a day (three 2-hour stages) and SWG set on 100%. Still original cell and PCB. This is the first thermistor repair I've had to do on it, but it sure runs hot, even with this new one.

If I see signs of it charring my PCB again, I may look at a way to add a heat sink. I've even thought of soldering in a pair of copper leads in place of the thermistor, and running the leads to a ceramic screw terminal off the PCB - maybe even outside the controller box - and attach the thermistor there with the terminal screws. Could attach a heat sink to it in its new location, which might be inside a separate ventilated metal box. We'll see. I don't want to go too nuts over a $3 part, but I also don't like the idea of this thing sitting there cooking my board.

I'll post if I wind up doing anything worth bragging about.

 

[JasonLion]

If you do add leads to a separate socket, make sure to use heavy gauge stranded wire for the leads. There is a lot of current flowing through that part.

 

[poolcat]

If you do add leads to a separate socket, make sure to use heavy gauge stranded wire for the leads. There is a lot of current flowing through that part.

Absolutely, as evidenced by all the heat generated! Thanks. I would also need a terminal socket that could handle the heat. That's why I'm thinking ceramic. I may try the simpler approach first though, attaching an aluminum heat sink with a silicone heat transferring adhesive.

 

[rcdash]

Why replace a part that is known to fail with the same part. Has any one tried digikey part 570-1027-ND? This is the 35 amp version with thicker leads. It has the same resistance ratings, just greater energy handling capacity. The heat sink is a good idea.

 

[supersport25]

I want to thank all of you that explained this problem of the black quarter sized current limiter crumbling/drying out. Before ordering a new board, I looked and found mine had a crack, I went to digikey.com and ordered a new one part number SL32 2R025. I have an Aqua Rite PCB board for an up to 40000 pool. It is 10 years old, I replaced the cell 4 years ago. I thought the cell was going again but after reading this and finding the dried out current limiter, I ordered a new one soldered it in and it cost me the price of the limiter $2.69 and shipping (lots of choices for quick and slower) a soldering kit for $11. and within two days the unit was functioning. This saved us over $600. Thank you everyone who responded to this and saved us this money. Very much appreciated.

So I am not one that likes to mess with boards etc but I have no choice but to self repair. So basically my pool has started turning green in spots. I checked the AQR controller and no lights on it at all but I do have a display. Unplugging the cell and plugging it back in does nothing. I also restarted the breaker to reset the controller and the generating light comes on and then off after a minute or so. I assume I may have a bad limiter on the board which I may check tommorrow but I wanted to check in and see if there was something else I should be checking the information on this thread is so helpful.

 

[Patrick_B]

So I am not one that likes to mess with boards etc but I have no choice but to self repair. So basically my pool has started turning green in spots. I checked the AQR controller and no lights on it at all but I do have a display. Unplugging the cell and plugging it back in does nothing. I also restarted the breaker to reset the controller and the generating light comes on and then off after a minute or so. I assume I may have a bad limiter on the board which I may check tommorrow but I wanted to check in and see if there was something else I should be checking the information on this thread is so helpful.

Welcome to TFP!


I can't help with the automation on this, but if it were my pool, I'd get some liquid Chlorine in there while I figured out the rest. You are about to have an algae bloom get way ahead of you. If you aren't familiar, check out the links in my sig to Pool School, ABCs, and the SLAM process.

If you ar

 

[supersport25]

Welcome to TFP!


I can't help with the automation on this, but if it were my pool, I'd get some liquid Chlorine in there while I figured out the rest. You are about to have an algae bloom get way ahead of you. If you aren't familiar, check out the links in my sig to Pool School, ABCs, and the SLAM process.

If you ar

Yeah its already starting. I did find the problem however. It is in fact the limiter.... the covering on one side is split. Does anyone have the part numbers for the limiter and do I need to replace anything else?

 

[poolcat]

Does anyone have the part numbers for the limiter and do I need to replace anything else?

If yours is the same part that most folks' seem to be (SL32-2R025), then here's the link to the part you need:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SL32 2R025/570-1062-ND/363379

Under $3, and about $5 for shipping, depending upon what shipping service you choose. You should be able to read on the part if yours is the SL32-2R025, if it is not cooked too severely. If you have no experience soldering on circuit boards, I suggest you enlist the help of a buddy who does, if possible. I had to use a higher wattage soldering gun, as my pencil tip soldering iron did not produce enough heat to solder this part. And, please make sure the power is off before going into the unit. High voltage hurts!

There are a couple of smaller red resistors I have read about others having to replace, but I didn't have to, and I don't think most folks have had to. I noticed a post above by rcdash saying that digikey part 570-1027-ND is a heavier rated part that can replace the SL32-2R025. I have no experience with that part, but I'm thinking I would like to try it. Here is a link I found to that part: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?vendor=0&keywords=570-1027-ND

Best wishes!

 

[buster626]

Just put salt in pool, ran pump for 24 hours before plugging t-cell and flow switch. Power light was on. Before plugging cell and flow switch I turn power to unit off at breaker. When I turn on no power light just the red no-flow light. After 30 seconds no-gen light on then it too goes off. Removed and checked the circuit panel and no evidence of burn anywhere. I then checked the back of the digital display panel and there is what appears to be a burn spot in the center of the digital screen as shown in the photo.
The digital screen still shows some information. Water temp, voltage, t-15, 2800 chlorine I assume. But power light is off.
Any ideas if this is related to a the same part of this thread subject?

 

[ibreslin]

Can anyone confirm that this may be a inexpensive fix for a system that continually reads low salt levels? I have checked my salt levels at the pool store (3100) but my display continually drops to 2200 which causes it to stop generating.

The salt cell is only a couple month old and looks visually clean. I have tried the recalibrate/reset but "Instant" salt reading still shows 2100.

My next plan is to take the salt cell to a pool store to "Test" it and then hopefully warrant the cell if it is defective.

In the meantime I rean across this thread and thought I would check to see if the "quarter size black resister" may be a fix for this.

Thanks!

:?:

new to this forum, some great info in here, thanks!

I have a similar situation to the above (from april 30 2013), don't see a reply to this particular problem.

low salt reading at the aqua-rite controller (2400) vs pool store / other tester (3200). is this always indicative of failing cell?

I've tried resetting the salt level at the controller after cleaning the cell but when I try to reset, the current salt level starts the count down at 2500!

another thing, my seven year old controller has software revision shows R1.40, did the "select t-cell type" option come in after that? select t-cell type option (8 pushes of button) is not available on my controller, there are only seven options.