Aquarite Not generating - lights not on

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Status
Not open for further replies.
Thanks McPickle! I just installed a brand new t-cell but I will take a water sample to the store and you are right, I need to add some shock/chlorine sticks. I just cannot figure out why the "generating" light will not come on. I ran it on super chlorinate for about 5 hours. Last year, I read on this forum about the little black round thingy going bad, I replaced it and it resolved everything perfectly. Well, until now! lol. Thanks for the advice!
Karen
 
Hi, I'm new to the site but have been following the comments online for some time. I too have an Aquarite system that was not generating and had no lights showing on the board. I replaced the current limiter about two weeks ago and the everything worked great. Unfortunately, when I checked the system yesterday, all the lights were off again. The pool is almost 5 years old, approximately 12,000 gallons. Any other suggestions?
 
We actually checked everything last night and found the fuse had blown. We replaced it and everything is working fine now. I'm a little curious as to why the fuse blew - possibly another problem. But will continue monitoring and narrowing it down.
 
Hi folks!

I just did the current limiter repair yesterday and whaddya know, it worked! However.... today when I checked on the panel (to make sure it's still working, I'm no electronics whiz!) the enclosure felt warm. I don't remember if it was supposed to feel warm prior to this... so I am hoping everything is okay. The lights and diagnostics appear normal, it's just that the faceplate and enclosure to the Aquarite unit feels noticeably warm. For those who are electronics whizzes, what should I check (if anything)?

I am glad I decided to Google the problem before paying the pool company hundreds of dollars! The parts from DigiKey came in 2 days - so for a few bucks (plus the cost of a soldering iron) we appear to back in business. Just don't wanna burn down the house now... :shock:
 
ok another non electrical wizard here...does it matter which way you solder the "black thingy" in? What I mean is the writing on the thingy, does it have to be facing you if the board is laying on a table or away from you, does that matter?

I'm in the process of doing the repair and forgot to note the position of the original.

Thx
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I just completed the current limiter repair. Long ago I was an electronics tech so the replacement was pretty easy (and luckily all the wire connections are clearly marked on my circuit board so the re-install was clean). Part came from Digi-Key in three days with regular post office shipping. It works! Thanks so much for this forum thread, it's saved me a bundle.
 
Thx Bama, I made sure to get it all set up and soldered correctly, it works like a charm. Has been for a few days and all is crystal clear in the pool and lit up as it should be on the board.

This forum is the best, thx all for the great info!!!
 
I have the same problem that a lot of folks have but I noticed one thing. The amperage drops to zero and the generate shuts down. all lights go black. Then it takes about 2 minutes for the amperage to get back to 17.0. Then the generate and power lights come back on. After about 10 seconds amperage quickly drops to zero and everything shuts down. Then the cycle repeats. I have installed a new T-15 cell. Everything is set up correctly with jumpers, software rev. 1.55 on board etc. Board is only two years old. The fuse is good. Is there something wrong with the varistor (the black quarter thingy). I dont see any black marks at the connection and it appears to be in good shape. Any ideas?

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pools ... z1rsBItF9n
 
Thanks to everyone for the great advice on how to solve the "No Lights, and Not Generating" problem on the Aqua Rite system.

I recently ordered the "Current Limiter Inrush 2 Ohm 25A" part# 570-1062-ND from Digi-Key, which arrived in 3 days. I ordered a spare and the total with shipping came to $5.74

The new Current Limiter (aka black thingy) looks identical to the one originally on my circuit board, including the writing on one side:
SL 32
2R025

Even though the original Current Limiter looked fine, I decided to attempt to replace it since the diagnostic panel showed very low numbers for Amps; and since, as predicted in this forum, several pool supply stores said that they can 'repair' my Aqua Rite but replacing the circuit board with a new one ($300). They confirmed they do not test or attempt any repairs to circuit boards.

With the circuit board removed, the back of the Current Limiter did show slight darkening, like a burn. Once I got the Current Limiter 'de-soldered' from the circuit board, it did indeed break apart in my hands. With the encouragement and information in this forum, I too as a first time solder-er was able to remove the old and replace with a new one. With the circuit board back in place, I turned the power on and the power light came on and the system is once again generating chlorine.

Thanks so much for all the input on this forum.
 
I had the same problem as Peggy. I read the conversation and decided to open the cover and see the circuit board.
I have to thank west for explaining in detail what to look for , where to find the parts, the website and part # and the price. when I opened the cover I saw the black quarter size current limiter burnt and cracked. I immediately went to the digikey website and ordered 2 of them. I was a little nervous at first since I have not soldered anything in 20 years. I went on youtube and checked out the soldering videos and nothing had changed in the soldering world in 20yrs. LOL.. .

The parts arrived and I soldered the current limiter and it took me less than 10 minutes to get it to work. Total cost to fix it with parts and shipping < $7.00.


Saved a lot of time , aggravation and money . Thanks again and good luck ..
 
Problem Solved. I replaced the Current Limiter Varistor black thingy or whatever you want to call it. They make these newer circuit boards tricker to remove (mine only two years old and already failed). I had to drill out with a small drill bit the connection point. Put a new one in and everything works perfect!
 
freddiethe3rd said:
Problem Solved. I replaced the Current Limiter Varistor black thingy or whatever you want to call it. They make these newer circuit boards tricker to remove (mine only two years old and already failed). I had to drill out with a small drill bit the connection point. Put a new one in and everything works perfect!
Click to expand...

I've done a few of these. we get power surges which blow these limiters. new limiter is only like $8. solder on a new one and your back in business.

I'd be interested in knowing if other SWG's like AutoPilots have current limiters? had to replace 5 so far in a 3 year span due to the power surges.
 
Thanks for this site, I read thru and saw I have the same situation. I ordered the part and will let you know how it turns out. My pool is going on its 3rd yr, seems kinda early for this to happen. Is nothing made to last?

16x32 vinyl liner salt pool 20k Gal.??
Pentair Pump 1HP
sand dollar filter
Aqua Rite
Dolphin Diagnostic cleaner
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Status
Not open for further replies.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply