The Power LED to our panel went out and a technician came out and said we needed a new PCB - we ended up buying a replacement and installed ourselves - we were careful to match the wires up to where they were but the lights still will not come on. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Aquarite Not generating - lights not on
- Thread starter west1745
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:-D Well, I am not an electrician, so my thoughts are very simplistic. If the technician said you need a new PCB, you properly installed the PCB yourself, and it still doesn't work, I would be careful that he isn't trying to nickel and dime you. "Try replacing this, then try replacing that." Either he doesn't know what he's talking about, and is just guessing, or he DOES know what's wrong, and is just trying to get you to spend as much money as possible. That's what ALMOST happened to me. I did buy a new PCB, but didn't need it. It was nonreturnable, so I still have it. My problem was a $2.62 current limiter. Probably not your problem, though. The current limiter answer I got from this blog. Great people here. Just throwing my two cents in. Good Luck.
Let me begin by saying that I believe this forum has just saved me at a mimimum of $300.00 About a week ago, I noticed the LED indicator lights on my Aqua Rite Gold Line control box were out. I have a 15K gal. salt water pool with Hayward Aqua Rite T15 salt gen cell and controls. I searched and found this forum and the exact problem was described. I immediately ordered the $2.50 part from digi-key and to day soldered the new one on and voila!! I am back in business. Now, I want to state that I am the most unmachanical minded man that I know. I had to download some youtubes just to learn how to solder. If I can do it ---you can. Thank you for this great post and I will be happy to share any info about the process. :-D :-D
Aquarite No Digital Display
I have the same issue that many of you have on this forum. My Aquarite unit stopped working, I came to this forum and it was cool to read all of the help that is available here. I purchased two resistors from DigiKey part number (SL32-2R025 ) as I followed the advice of many on this board. I made the swap today; as I removed the old resistor and installed the new one. I am now getting the power light and the generating light however I am not getting any displays. I called DigiKey and I spoke to one of the tech reps who informed me that the resistor is not a polarized part, so the label does not have to be face up. Is there anything else that I can try? Your help is greatly appreciated as I am trying to avoid buying a new board if I don't have to.
I have the same issue that many of you have on this forum. My Aquarite unit stopped working, I came to this forum and it was cool to read all of the help that is available here. I purchased two resistors from DigiKey part number (SL32-2R025 ) as I followed the advice of many on this board. I made the swap today; as I removed the old resistor and installed the new one. I am now getting the power light and the generating light however I am not getting any displays. I called DigiKey and I spoke to one of the tech reps who informed me that the resistor is not a polarized part, so the label does not have to be face up. Is there anything else that I can try? Your help is greatly appreciated as I am trying to avoid buying a new board if I don't have to.
New update; I checked this morning and like magic all was working for about 5 minutes, then the displays all went dark. Now I am back to square one. The power light faintly flickers and I hear an occassional ticking sound from the box. I am not sure if the board got fried at the point where the resistor is soldered. Any thoughts, please?
I love the internet. I don't have to be smart, just have access to smart people. Thanks to everyone for this thread. I ordered the thermistor and solved my problem too.
Hi, I have an aquarite with a t15 cell. My power light is on but that is it. No low salt, no check cell, no low flow. My board look fine. Any suggestions? We only have two authorized aquarite dealers, both of which subcontract and do not answer my calls. Cant get an answer.
0.00
31
31.6
0.00
100p
0.00
AL-5
R 1.40
Yes I know I do not have any salt in my pool.
0.00
31
31.6
0.00
100p
0.00
AL-5
R 1.40
Yes I know I do not have any salt in my pool.
WOW this forum ROCKS!!! Thanks to you all I just saved a bunch! Had this same problem with no lights (generator would come on briefly, then back off). I peak in on the box every day or two, as it's in the back of the garage and noticed no lights either the day or day after they went off. Tried all the normal stuff, checked the manual, called the pool store, nothing was any help. Remembered this forum and figured it was worth a shot. Bingo!! Found this thread (THANKS WEST)! Figured I'd try the $3 part before I incur many hundreds on an unnecessary replacement or repair. The current limiter looked okay, but maybe a little burnt where it touches the board. Pulled the board out and it was all burnt in the back!
With all the info here, decided to give it a try. Got two current limiters from DigiKey, overnight shipped to Canada for eight bucks. $15 and one day later, I'm giving it a try. Never soldered anything before in my life. Left $25 at Home Depot and came home armed with my new soldering iron and electrical solder. Watched numerous videos on how to de-solder and solder on a circuit board. Practiced on an old PC component. Ready to go.
Now time for the hiccup. It did not appear this current limited was soldered. I tried de-soldering like I learned and nothing. I couldn't get the burnt one out. It looked like there were little metal rings on both sides where the current limiter connected to the board. Tried heating the wire on the old one and pulling. Nothing. Finally, as I'm pulling, the old current limiter starts to crumble. I just crumbled it off and left the 1+ inch metal prongs sticking up. I remembered what Sirfoy said they did, so I figured I was going to try something similar. Braided the new one to the old prongs the best I could then soldered them together. Bent it down so it didn't stick up too far, crossed my fingers and re-installed.
SUCCESS!! This was 10 minutes ago, but everything appears to be working perfectly again! All lights are normal, I can heard the cell working again (that water trickling sound). Before I went and jumped in the pool to celebrate, I HAD to come on here and thank this fantastic forum!!! Now, going to get the bathing suit on!
I can only hope I can help someone like this forum has helped me!
Mike
With all the info here, decided to give it a try. Got two current limiters from DigiKey, overnight shipped to Canada for eight bucks. $15 and one day later, I'm giving it a try. Never soldered anything before in my life. Left $25 at Home Depot and came home armed with my new soldering iron and electrical solder. Watched numerous videos on how to de-solder and solder on a circuit board. Practiced on an old PC component. Ready to go.
Now time for the hiccup. It did not appear this current limited was soldered. I tried de-soldering like I learned and nothing. I couldn't get the burnt one out. It looked like there were little metal rings on both sides where the current limiter connected to the board. Tried heating the wire on the old one and pulling. Nothing. Finally, as I'm pulling, the old current limiter starts to crumble. I just crumbled it off and left the 1+ inch metal prongs sticking up. I remembered what Sirfoy said they did, so I figured I was going to try something similar. Braided the new one to the old prongs the best I could then soldered them together. Bent it down so it didn't stick up too far, crossed my fingers and re-installed.
SUCCESS!! This was 10 minutes ago, but everything appears to be working perfectly again! All lights are normal, I can heard the cell working again (that water trickling sound). Before I went and jumped in the pool to celebrate, I HAD to come on here and thank this fantastic forum!!! Now, going to get the bathing suit on!
I can only hope I can help someone like this forum has helped me!
Mike
I think I have the same problem as others and just ordered the part from Digi-Key. I had my cell tested at the pool store and they said it's working, so hopefully the problem is the little current limiter. I've never soldered anything before and hope that I don't screw up the circuit board in the process. Thanks for the insight on this thread I feel up to the challenge. If anyone has a good DIY video link on soldering, I'd love to see it.
Well, I received the part from Digi_key and soldered it on (not as easy as I thought it would be) and now the Aqua Rite lights up and is "generating." The only problem is there is no cell flow reading when I press the diagnostic button (I tried at various intervals throughout the day). When I moved the switch to super chlorinate, I hear a click inside the machine, and then the cell flow starts reading out around 5.xx or so and I think it's actually working. Any ideas on why there is no cell flow unless it is on super chlorniate? Thanks for any insight.
Hi Everyone.
I have a Aquarite Salt pool. Been A-OK for 5 years (which I think is pretty good). Texas had a heck of a heat wave and drought this summer. The salt cell went and I replaced it about a month ago.
Not a week later, the lights on the control box would come on (No flow, etc) during startup, then go off and show chlorine level at 4000. We knew that was incorrect cause we had it analyzed. Called Aquarite, they had me run a voltmeter between the 2 yellow wires and I got something like 22V and they said .. "Your system board is bad"
I searched on Internet and found this site.
THANK YOU TO ALL OF YOU !!!
The black round thing on my system board was in one piece, but I could easily see burn marks on the board. I ordered 2 new ones using information from this board...
"West, you are my hero! Just checked for the "black thing" and sure enough...it is cracked and it looks like burn marks around it! I am ordering replacement part from Digi-Key Corp., the part# is 570-1062-ND, for 2.42 each. I am ordering two! Thank you"
The price for 2 of the black things was <$ 6.00 with shipping.
I bought a soldering iron from Lowes for approx $15 (I have one but it was way too big for this job)
I bought some solder from Sears (thin solder ) for about $3.50
Took the board off (easy)
Unsoldered the black thing (easy) The thing crumpled while I was taking it off, there was a crack down the back under the black coating.
Soldered a new one on.
Salt Generating working fine.
If you need help with the de soldering and re soldering, let me know. This was the first time I ever did a system board component and I researched all over. It was no where near as hard or detailed as the articles on the internet said. Knowing what I know now, I could do it in about 15 minutes from uninstall system board to re-install system board. Being my first time, I just took it slow and easy.
Here is my email if you need help. [email protected]. This saved a ton of money.
Thank you to all of you again. I love these sites.
Matt
I have a Aquarite Salt pool. Been A-OK for 5 years (which I think is pretty good). Texas had a heck of a heat wave and drought this summer. The salt cell went and I replaced it about a month ago.
Not a week later, the lights on the control box would come on (No flow, etc) during startup, then go off and show chlorine level at 4000. We knew that was incorrect cause we had it analyzed. Called Aquarite, they had me run a voltmeter between the 2 yellow wires and I got something like 22V and they said .. "Your system board is bad"
I searched on Internet and found this site.
THANK YOU TO ALL OF YOU !!!
The black round thing on my system board was in one piece, but I could easily see burn marks on the board. I ordered 2 new ones using information from this board...
"West, you are my hero! Just checked for the "black thing" and sure enough...it is cracked and it looks like burn marks around it! I am ordering replacement part from Digi-Key Corp., the part# is 570-1062-ND, for 2.42 each. I am ordering two! Thank you"
The price for 2 of the black things was <$ 6.00 with shipping.
I bought a soldering iron from Lowes for approx $15 (I have one but it was way too big for this job)
I bought some solder from Sears (thin solder ) for about $3.50
Took the board off (easy)
Unsoldered the black thing (easy) The thing crumpled while I was taking it off, there was a crack down the back under the black coating.
Soldered a new one on.
Salt Generating working fine.
If you need help with the de soldering and re soldering, let me know. This was the first time I ever did a system board component and I researched all over. It was no where near as hard or detailed as the articles on the internet said. Knowing what I know now, I could do it in about 15 minutes from uninstall system board to re-install system board. Being my first time, I just took it slow and easy.
Here is my email if you need help. [email protected]. This saved a ton of money.
Thank you to all of you again. I love these sites.
Matt
had the same problem that many others did regarding no lights on the panel. ordered the new current limiter from digikey. it came today and when installed worked perfect!! your posts saved me about $362 which is what the pool dealer wanted. Thanks for all the helpful posts!
I successfully replaced my current limiter and made a video about it.
It is on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPL_YnvW ... e=youtu.be
Before you help the same guy that cleans your pool meet his sales quota for the year consider trying to fix it yourself.
Most pool companies will charge you $100 just to come out, and will then sell you a new board instead of repairing it.
It is on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPL_YnvW ... e=youtu.be
Before you help the same guy that cleans your pool meet his sales quota for the year consider trying to fix it yourself.
Most pool companies will charge you $100 just to come out, and will then sell you a new board instead of repairing it.
thank you for the excellent information provided on this forum!I was having a problem with my Aqua Rite SWG. There were no lights lit in the panel, just a reading on the LCD. After checking voltage and all the connections, I started searching the forums and am glad I came here!
It was the current limiter and a very easy fix. Took about 10 mins. and I was back in service!
Same problem happened to my 6 yr old Aquarite. Found this forum and decided to try this cheap fix and ordered current limiter from Digikey. Once the current limiter was replaced this afternoon the lights went on and the system was up and running like normal. Fantastic!!
My thanks to all who contributed in this forum.
My thanks to all who contributed in this forum.
Here's a video of a so called "technician" who knows the current limiter is bad, but replaces the entire board!
Another homeowner screwed.
Apparently Goldline doesn't teach "technicians" to repair anything, only to replace the board.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCBKRQXMpTs
He probably took it home, repaired it and sold it on Ebay.
Another homeowner screwed.
Apparently Goldline doesn't teach "technicians" to repair anything, only to replace the board.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCBKRQXMpTs
He probably took it home, repaired it and sold it on Ebay.
HELP!
My aquarite chlorinator does not have the "generating" light on. My pool is GREEN! I just bought and replaced the t-15 cell. the readings are:
4.10
23
25.1
7.66
1000
-4.50
al-0
rl .4.0
I put more salt in the pool and I am at a loss.
Any ideas????
Thanks,
Karen
My aquarite chlorinator does not have the "generating" light on. My pool is GREEN! I just bought and replaced the t-15 cell. the readings are:
4.10
23
25.1
7.66
1000
-4.50
al-0
rl .4.0
I put more salt in the pool and I am at a loss.
Any ideas????
Thanks,
Karen
That should read 100p not 1000. OK, after one hour on superchlorinate, the readings changed they are now:
4.10
12
31.9 (it went up from 25.1)
0 (from 7.66)
100p
-0 (from -4.50)
al-0
is this going in the right direction?? But STILL NO GENERATING LIGHT! HELP ME!
Karen
4.10
12
31.9 (it went up from 25.1)
0 (from 7.66)
100p
-0 (from -4.50)
al-0
is this going in the right direction?? But STILL NO GENERATING LIGHT! HELP ME!
Karen
Love the forum and all the help you folks offer. I decided to give the Current Limiter fix a try but I think I have newer version of the board then the one I'm seeing based on references to part #'s and videos posted here.
I replaced my board once before a couple of years ago and upgraded it to the latest version. My old board has the SL32-2R025 part most are talking about here. However, my new board has a DigiKey part number of: 570-1105-ND and the Manufacturer's Number is AS32-2R025. DigiKey lists it as out of stock on it. But it also says it is a "Non-Stock" item which they define as
Products marked with non-stock in the "Minimum Quantity" column is typically not stocked. This product is available for purchase but because of its limited customer base is usually subject to higher minimum quantities.
If I try to order 1 the screen shays it wont ship until at least April 17th. I really don't want to go that long without giving this a try.
I was wondering if:
* Does anyone know of a substitute part I could use in place of the AS32-2R025 (DigiKey lists a number of "similar" products below this one on their site but I know nothing about Ohm's and Amps). http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 70-1105-ND Does not look like the SL32-2R025 will work as it's much thinner than the one I have.
* Also wondering if anyone here might have an extra AS32-2R025 on hand as I believe they come in two-packs? I'd be happy to pay you full price plus any shipping fees if you can get it to me in the next week or so.
If anyone has any other ideas I'm open.
Thanks in advance.
Festa
I replaced my board once before a couple of years ago and upgraded it to the latest version. My old board has the SL32-2R025 part most are talking about here. However, my new board has a DigiKey part number of: 570-1105-ND and the Manufacturer's Number is AS32-2R025. DigiKey lists it as out of stock on it. But it also says it is a "Non-Stock" item which they define as
Products marked with non-stock in the "Minimum Quantity" column is typically not stocked. This product is available for purchase but because of its limited customer base is usually subject to higher minimum quantities.
If I try to order 1 the screen shays it wont ship until at least April 17th. I really don't want to go that long without giving this a try.
I was wondering if:
* Does anyone know of a substitute part I could use in place of the AS32-2R025 (DigiKey lists a number of "similar" products below this one on their site but I know nothing about Ohm's and Amps). http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 70-1105-ND Does not look like the SL32-2R025 will work as it's much thinner than the one I have.
* Also wondering if anyone here might have an extra AS32-2R025 on hand as I believe they come in two-packs? I'd be happy to pay you full price plus any shipping fees if you can get it to me in the next week or so.
If anyone has any other ideas I'm open.
Thanks in advance.
Festa
Karen,
I would take a water sample and your cell in to the store for testing, most pool stores can and will do this at no charge. Your salt level may be off, but I never add salt unless I have it tested at the store first. I would also switch to chlorine at least in the short term. If you pool is green throw in some shock and put some chlorine sticks in the skimmers, until this is resolved.
I would take a water sample and your cell in to the store for testing, most pool stores can and will do this at no charge. Your salt level may be off, but I never add salt unless I have it tested at the store first. I would also switch to chlorine at least in the short term. If you pool is green throw in some shock and put some chlorine sticks in the skimmers, until this is resolved.
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