Thanks for the info! My Aqua Rite was exactly as you all described the problem and solution. I ordered the limiter (ordered 2 to have a spare, $2.64 ea.). It arrived yesterday -- took about 15 minutes to replace. I'm up and running again. Thanks for saving me a bunch!--pm__
Aquarite Not generating - lights not on
- Thread starter west1745
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Add me to the list!! I bought a new board last year for an "intermittent" problem of strange lights and voltages. The new board ran til this season, and guess what, no lights at all, but the display worked. After finding this board, and this thread, I ordered 2 limiters, replaced them on both boards, and like MAGIC - both boards work fine now!! Thanks to the knowledge acquired here, I have $600 worth of control boards that were repaired for $11 (I paid for Express shipping!). Many thanks again.
I've had this system installed for 2 years and noticed the LEDs were dropping out when generation turned on, just the same as elsewhere on this thread. Followed the instructions found here and purchased the current limiter from Digi-Key and installed. Literally took me around 10 minutes to remove the board, remove the failed component, install the new component, then assemble the board back into the control box. GREAT help here! Lots of money saved, I'm sure! Many thanks to those that posted the solution!
I am having the same issue. Can someone tell me the part number for the resistor so I can order it from digikey?
Thanks in advance,
Miaclockman
UPDATE 06.30.2013
Please disregard the question about the resistor. I bought 3 new voltage limiters from Digikey (2 spares as I have replaced the board twice in 5 years). As I unsoldered the old one, it, like the other ones that you all described in your postings, crumbled in my hands. I soldered in the new piece, put everything back together and it's working like new. Thanks SO much for sharing that information as I was looking at $500 for a new system board.
I also agree that the ventilation for this board is pitiful. They should have placed some type of venting with mesh to keep out bugs and possibly a small fan - sort of like the ones that you see on computer CPUs. As a well-trained computer network analyst, I can attest that heat is the number one reason for electronics to fail. I once bought a Dell mid-tower PC and noticed that it was running hot. Postings showed others had tremendous problems with their systems overheating and shutting down.
Upon opening the case, I discovered that Dell had the fan and housing for the CPU sucking IN air rather than blowing it out. In addition, the vent for the CPU was directly below the output fan for the power supply. Therefore, the fan was pulling in already heated air and blowing it over a dual core processor! After reversing the polarity on the fan so that it would blow OUT, the temps dropped by about 20 degrees Celcius.
Anyway, I wanted to make sure to give my thanks to all of you for advice and video links to help me fix the problem in less than 20 minutes!
MIACLOCKMAN
Thanks in advance,
Miaclockman
UPDATE 06.30.2013
Please disregard the question about the resistor. I bought 3 new voltage limiters from Digikey (2 spares as I have replaced the board twice in 5 years). As I unsoldered the old one, it, like the other ones that you all described in your postings, crumbled in my hands. I soldered in the new piece, put everything back together and it's working like new. Thanks SO much for sharing that information as I was looking at $500 for a new system board.
I also agree that the ventilation for this board is pitiful. They should have placed some type of venting with mesh to keep out bugs and possibly a small fan - sort of like the ones that you see on computer CPUs. As a well-trained computer network analyst, I can attest that heat is the number one reason for electronics to fail. I once bought a Dell mid-tower PC and noticed that it was running hot. Postings showed others had tremendous problems with their systems overheating and shutting down.
Upon opening the case, I discovered that Dell had the fan and housing for the CPU sucking IN air rather than blowing it out. In addition, the vent for the CPU was directly below the output fan for the power supply. Therefore, the fan was pulling in already heated air and blowing it over a dual core processor! After reversing the polarity on the fan so that it would blow OUT, the temps dropped by about 20 degrees Celcius.
Anyway, I wanted to make sure to give my thanks to all of you for advice and video links to help me fix the problem in less than 20 minutes!
MIACLOCKMAN
The part you need is: Current Limiter Inrush 2 Ohm 25A part# 570-1062-ND from Digi-Key.
I want to thank all of you that explained this problem of the black quarter sized current limiter crumbling/drying out. Before ordering a new board, I looked and found mine had a crack, I went to digikey.com and ordered a new one part number SL32 2R025. I have an Aqua Rite PCB board for an up to 40000 pool. It is 10 years old, I replaced the cell 4 years ago. I thought the cell was going again but after reading this and finding the dried out current limiter, I ordered a new one soldered it in and it cost me the price of the limiter $2.69 and shipping (lots of choices for quick and slower) a soldering kit for $11. and within two days the unit was functioning. This saved us over $600. Thank you everyone who responded to this and saved us this money. Very much appreciated.
Thanks everyone. Was able to fix a friends aquarite. The LCD display would display properly, but the power light would not come on. No flow would flash, then generating light would come on briefly, then all LEDs would go out.
If you measure the resistance on the current limiter while it is installed in the board it read about 6 mega ohms. Essentially this showed an open circuit as the current limiter should read between 2 and 2.5 ohms resistance IF it is good. Ordered two of them from Digikey and installed one. Power light came back on and now just waiting for friend to verify operation in pool. As many mentioned, it looks like this part tends to dry out and crack. There were no visible cracks on the one that went bad, but when I put a pair of pliers on it during desoldering it fell apart.
Here are some tips for removing and soldering in a new one. If you can get the limiter to crack in to two pieces then you can heat and remove one side at a time. Much easier than when it is one piece. Use solder wick to remove excess solder from holes once the old one is removed. Use liquid flux if you have it, it will help transfer heat from the soldering iron to the pad on the board. When soldering the new one in, bend the legs over so that it holds itself on the board while you solder. Clip off the excess legs before soldering and use flux when you solder it in. Remember, the solder needs to flow along the current limiter leg AND the board pad or else you'll have a cold solder joint which could fail.
The one I needed was a AS32 2R025, seems Digikey has jacked the price up on these a little as I paid about $8 a piece for them...but still a lot cheaper than replacing the board or unit.
If you measure the resistance on the current limiter while it is installed in the board it read about 6 mega ohms. Essentially this showed an open circuit as the current limiter should read between 2 and 2.5 ohms resistance IF it is good. Ordered two of them from Digikey and installed one. Power light came back on and now just waiting for friend to verify operation in pool. As many mentioned, it looks like this part tends to dry out and crack. There were no visible cracks on the one that went bad, but when I put a pair of pliers on it during desoldering it fell apart.
Here are some tips for removing and soldering in a new one. If you can get the limiter to crack in to two pieces then you can heat and remove one side at a time. Much easier than when it is one piece. Use solder wick to remove excess solder from holes once the old one is removed. Use liquid flux if you have it, it will help transfer heat from the soldering iron to the pad on the board. When soldering the new one in, bend the legs over so that it holds itself on the board while you solder. Clip off the excess legs before soldering and use flux when you solder it in. Remember, the solder needs to flow along the current limiter leg AND the board pad or else you'll have a cold solder joint which could fail.
The one I needed was a AS32 2R025, seems Digikey has jacked the price up on these a little as I paid about $8 a piece for them...but still a lot cheaper than replacing the board or unit.
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My AquaRite display has "hob"(maybe not a b)instead of PPM amount and the the generating light flashes constantly, does the same thing on super chlorinate, water is not too hot or too cool, pool is starting to turn so I need to figure out what's bad....
"Generating" LED flashing
The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by
switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first
"Generating" LED flashing
The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by
switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first
I noticed my Auqua Rite had these symptoms yesterday. Display reads fine, but the power, generate, and other lights to the right were out. I could power off the unit and when I powered it back on the lights stayed on for a while and then I would check it later and they would be off. Sometimes they would come back on and then off. I placed my order with Digi Key today.
PS
The technical support guy at Hayward was no help at all. I'm sure I knew more about the unit than he did. All he could do was to ask me to take it to a service center.
PS
The technical support guy at Hayward was no help at all. I'm sure I knew more about the unit than he did. All he could do was to ask me to take it to a service center.
Does anyone know if the Hayward Swimpure SWG is built similar to the Aqua Rite? I'm having the same problems as many are mentioning here - lights off, salt level ok, diagnostics showing low voltage and no amps, chlorine not generating so thinking it might be the limiter. I have a professional service call happening today (I am not a DIY type when it comes to anything electrical) but am afraid that they will automatically tell me to replace the board so trying to read up so can ask the right questions. Same company is repairing a leak later this week so trying to save money on this if possible as that is already an expensive undertaking. My SWG is ~ 2 years old (bought by previous owner).
25000 gal, fiberglass, Hayward Swimpure SWG, sand filter, Pentair Intelliflo
25000 gal, fiberglass, Hayward Swimpure SWG, sand filter, Pentair Intelliflo
The Swimpure and the Aquarite appear to be the same unit in different clothing. 
I'd find a friend that's handy and have them check the limiter. The pool company won't touch it I bet.
I'd find a friend that's handy and have them check the limiter. The pool company won't touch it I bet.
Well, here I am, nearly three years later, and this thread is still useful. This time I soldered about three inches of wire in the PCB through holes, then soldered the resistor to the wires. I did this for two reasons. 1. Hopefully moving the resistor down and away from the main assembly, I am hoping it will be exposed to lower temps than where it was at the top. 2. Next time it does need to be replaced, I can resolver to the wires, and avoid potentially damaging the PCB. Time will tell, literally.
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,761
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
I received my current limiter on and on Saturday I replaced it and my system is working fine. When I was desoldering it and removing it off the board it just fell apart.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Just followed the great tip about the varistor "black thingy" part.
Awesome advice and quick fix.
2 Days to get the part. (Got one extra) about $15 with shipping
$25 for a solder iron/solder/ and desolder wire.
Watched a couple of you tube videos.
Fixed in 15 minutes with the help of my 11 year old!
Worked like a charm.
Awesome advice and quick fix.
2 Days to get the part. (Got one extra) about $15 with shipping
$25 for a solder iron/solder/ and desolder wire.
Watched a couple of you tube videos.
Fixed in 15 minutes with the help of my 11 year old!
Worked like a charm.
I just got the thermistor in yesterday, pulled the board, and soldered it in.
Works like a charm.
I noticed that the old (baked to death and crumbled) thermistor had transferred enough heat to the circuit board to discolor it.
So rather than trimming the leads on the new part I left them long for a little more thermal isolation and just bent the leads 90 degrees to stand away from the other components.
As previously posted by others the whole box is pretty hot, so I'm looking to make a convection flow system to keep things from overheating.
However the thermistor is a temperature dependent device so I would advise against anyone putting any type of heat sink on it directly.
Great site, great forum, great thread!
Works like a charm.
I noticed that the old (baked to death and crumbled) thermistor had transferred enough heat to the circuit board to discolor it.
So rather than trimming the leads on the new part I left them long for a little more thermal isolation and just bent the leads 90 degrees to stand away from the other components.
As previously posted by others the whole box is pretty hot, so I'm looking to make a convection flow system to keep things from overheating.
However the thermistor is a temperature dependent device so I would advise against anyone putting any type of heat sink on it directly.
Great site, great forum, great thread!
I am wondering if this $2.62 part is what is wrong with mine. For now, because I am not convinced the cell is dead, I have put in chlorine and chemicals. Does anyone have the word HOT on their board when they needed this part?
Cognac,
I've not been able to find a schematic, so I went with the earlier posts on the thread.
The key indicator for me was that the display was working, but the POWER light was not on.
If you don't have a display, or if the power light is on, then the thermistor may not be the problem.
Here's a GREAT troubleshooting guide... http://www.nuccibros.com/sec_0934drRb_d ... -Guide.pdf
I've not been able to find a schematic, so I went with the earlier posts on the thread.
The key indicator for me was that the display was working, but the POWER light was not on.
If you don't have a display, or if the power light is on, then the thermistor may not be the problem.
Here's a GREAT troubleshooting guide... http://www.nuccibros.com/sec_0934drRb_d ... -Guide.pdf
I DO have a display and the power light IS on, unlike other posts here.
Power light steady
generating light flashing (it is NOT generating chlorine at all)
check cell and check salt level on
salt level is perfect, cleaned cell, but it may in fact be dead. I am just hesitant to dive into a cell replacement when Hayward techs have told me 20 times over the last 8 years to replace it, then it ends up being some easy fix.
I have reset the display.
I have cleaned the cell.
No one from Hayward yet has been able to explain the HOT display and it is not in the manual.
Power light steady
generating light flashing (it is NOT generating chlorine at all)
check cell and check salt level on
salt level is perfect, cleaned cell, but it may in fact be dead. I am just hesitant to dive into a cell replacement when Hayward techs have told me 20 times over the last 8 years to replace it, then it ends up being some easy fix.
I have reset the display.
I have cleaned the cell.
No one from Hayward yet has been able to explain the HOT display and it is not in the manual.
did you download the pdf file from my previous post.
Voltage and current may indicate the problem.
http://www.nuccibros.com/sec_0934drRb_d ... -Guide.pdf
Voltage and current may indicate the problem.
http://www.nuccibros.com/sec_0934drRb_d ... -Guide.pdf
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