I give up on Aquapure

[aquaman]

In the last two years, despite a normal appearing cell, normal Intellitouch readings and a good salt level and 8 hrs of operation I always need to add chlorine---

I called manufacturer and the strongly opiniated employee told me that at my gallons the system needs to run much longer and that the cell only lasts 5 yrs so I likely need another one. And that the drip test at the outflow side of the cell is not reliable test of cell function.

I will use this cell as a glorified pump and unplug the control box and manage with liquid chlorine unless someone lead me out of the darkness.

I regret spending the money on this system.

Bob

 

[aquaman]

Whoa!

I hit send without review- it is an Aquarite and I meant to say "glorified pipe"

 

[JasonLion]

There are a number of things that you should check before giving up on the system. The most important one is your CYA level. If CYA is too low the SWG will have trouble keeping up. There is a good article in Pool School about the proper levels for use with a SWG. If you post a full set of water test results we can give you some specific suggestions.

There are also a number of other things that can cause problems. Have you done a visual inspection of the cell recently? What size cell do you have (they make three sizes)? What is the percentage setting set to? And so on. The more information you can give us, the more we will be able to help.

 

[aquaman]

Jason -

I will reapproach you when warm weather returns, with real time data. Thanks.

At the time I threw my hands up, I had inspected the cell, added salt, tested CYA with kit I bought from/thru your site, but still found myself adding chlorine twice per week, only to find it falling daily after every bleach boost.

Since a service maintained the pool during the first 2 years I have no idea whether this was a problem from the very beginning.

The salt system and maintaining pH have been chronic problems for me (no matter how much acid I add I always get a 7.8 or higher pH).

 

[Ohm_Boy]

If you're chlorine is dropping, it is due to 1) UV/Sunlight, 2) Organics, or both.

It is highly likely that there is an algae infestation living just shy of a full bloom. The available chlorine could be giving all it's got just to try to keep it in check only to be used up before the algae is all dead.
Or it could be that your CYA level could be a bit low, allowing too much of the chlorine to be burned off by the sun.

While it is possible that the SWG is simply not producing, I believe that it is more likely that the demand is just too high. A good CYA level test and an overnight chlorine loss test w/ the SWG off would give a better picture of what is going on.

 

[Strannik]

maybe that strongly opinionated employee was right and at your gallons the system does need to run much longer and your cell does need replacement

 

[Bama Rambler]

To continue that vein, I was writing a reply as Jason was writing his and I deleted it. Basically I was saying that if your cell is designed at 100% 24 hours a day for a 40,000 gal pool it makes sense that you'd need to run it at least 12 hours a day at 100% for a 23,000 gal pool. While I know that's not exact I bet it's not far from the truth.

 

[Guest]

Check your phosphate level, I had the same problem here.

 

[bk406]

Check your phosphate level, I had the same problem here.

What do phophates do to a chlorine generator?

 

[Guest]

Check your phosphate level, I had the same problem here.

What do phophates do to a chlorine generator?

Phosphates are a source of food for bacteria. If they are high, and bacteria is present, you may never keep up with chlorine production from a SWG. Although your water may be crystal clear, high phosphates will keep the bacteria fat and happy.

Aquaman, what is the temperature of your pool?

 

[duraleigh]

If they are high, and bacteria is present,

However, the focus needs to be on adequate chlorine levels to prevent the growth of bacteria or algae in the first place.

There are many discussions on this forum about the importance of phosphates and many examples of people operating pristine pools with low chlorine consumption with very high phosphate levels.

This forum suggests that if your chlorine levels are adequate to begin with, phosphates are irrelevant and focusing on them will likely divert many pool owners from the root cause of their problems....inadequate chlorine levels.

 

[Guest]

Duraleigh,

I do agree, but in my instance... This wasn't the case, I brought shock levels up to 15ppm for three days and still struggled with my SWG. Once I solved the phosphate issue, my chlorine production was adaquete. Just curious, is it possible we could be dealing with different bacteria that reacts differently in other regions??? Just a thought? Maybe its H1N1 in the pool

 

[aquaman]

I appreciate the enthusiastic replies!

Summer water temp highs reach 87-88 F due to solar heating. The pool is full sun most of the day. My high pH of 7.8 and higher (despite as much as one gallon of 31% muriatic acid weekly [with TA between 70-100]) has always had me concerned about scale - but none seen in cell. The hot tub pours into the pool with a waterfall of 3-4 feeet - this likely increases pH yes? But constantly promoting high as I get? Tap water is 7.4-7.6 at my house - I've tested.

I had taken chlorine levels up to 5ppm for a number of days (FC~3-4) by adding chlorine and ran pool for 24 hrs for 1 day, then 12 hrs for 1 day then 8 hrs thereafter. Then measured chlorine daily and saw it fall to 0.5ppm. CYA at ~50-60 at that time. All with T-100 test kit.

At least twice more during the summer I would take it up to 5ppm and watch it fall without it sustaining. Did drip test at exit of cell without impression of higher chlorine (method debunked by Hayward rep). Then he did math on pool. The cell is Model T-cell-15. It has never had scale on the metal layers.
He said 12 + hours, I say Chlorox is cheaper. And it was likely time for a new cell based on its age.

The only time I had visible algae was when I first took over pool and was under impression that SWG would maintain pool. This was my first Spring taking care of my pool and found you great people soon after.

Phosphate is interesting. My neighbor had his pool emptied because of algae (so said his pool service).

Thanks folks! And the email notifications are great!

Bob

 

[Guest]

I appreciate the enthusiastic replies!

Summer water temp highs reach 87-88 F due to solar heating. The pool is full sun most of the day. My high pH of 7.8 and higher (despite as much as one gallon of 31% muriatic acid weekly [with TA between 70-100]) has always had me concerned about scale - but none seen in cell. The hot tub pours into the pool with a waterfall of 3-4 feeet - this likely increases pH yes? But constantly promoting high as I get? Tap water is 7.4-7.6 at my house - I've tested.

I had taken chlorine levels up to 5ppm for a number of days (FC~3-4) by adding chlorine and ran pool for 24 hrs for 1 day, then 12 hrs for 1 day then 8 hrs thereafter. Then measured chlorine daily and saw it fall to 0.5ppm. CYA at ~50-60 at that time. All with T-100 test kit.

At least twice more during the summer I would take it up to 5ppm and watch it fall without it sustaining. Did drip test at exit of cell without impression of higher chlorine (method debunked by Hayward rep). Then he did math on pool. The cell is Model T-cell-15. It has never had scale on the metal layers.
He said 12 + hours, I say Chlorox is cheaper. And it was likely time for a new cell based on its age.

The only time I had visible algae was when I first took over pool and was under impression that SWG would maintain pool. This was my first Spring taking care of my pool and found you great people soon after.

Phosphate is interesting. My neighbor had his pool emptied because of algae (so said his pool service).

Thanks folks! And the email notifications are great!

Bob

Bob,

I would also tell you that when your pool temp is that high, chlorine leaves the pool on a pretty rapid rate when you get closer to 90F. This is a nice comfortable place for bacteria to live. I would limit your temps below 86F.

Where do you live?

 

[aquaman]

Sal-

Northern California - in a valley just east of the SF Bay

 

[Guest]

Nice! I am down south in San Diego County!

Merry Xmas!

 

[bk406]

Pool temperature makes no difference for chlorine breakdown/consumption, as far as i know. It's the UV light that breaks it down.

At a CYA level of 50-60, the target chlorine level should be around 7 ppm.

Then measured chlorine daily and saw it fall to 0.5ppm. CYA at ~50-60 at that time. All with T-100 test kit.

Did you not add any chlorine over that period of time? Or did you let the generarator do the work?

At least twice more during the summer I would take it up to 5ppm and watch it fall without it sustaining.

What was the setting for the generator?

Have you ever performed an overnight chlorine loss test?

My neighbor had his pool emptied because of algae (so said his pool service).

I never saw an algea issue that could not be solved with adequate shock methods. Enough chlorine and a proper shock process should be enough to kill even the worst algea bloom.

The 3 things I have seen where a properly operating SWCG will not maintain chlorine is:
1) inadequately sized generator
2) algea bloom (even if you cant see it)
3) CYA too low

 

[duraleigh]

For further review on phosphates, please search on "phosphates" in the search feature and insert Jasonlion (if you want real life information) or chem geek (if you are looking for the chemistry behind it)

 

[Guest]

BK406,

Where do you live?

CYA is a chemical used to help block UV from chlorine loss. There is nothing other than a pool cover to stop evaporation and chlorine loss due to high water temps other then lower temps!

You would probably undertstand that if you had solar...

 

[bk406]

But high water temp in and of itself does not break down chlorine in an appreciable amount. UV light does. An indoor pool that's heated to 85 degrees plus does not lose chlorine due to the high temps. In fact, indoor pools do not need CYA, and in some places, CYA in indoor pools are against code.

I do not have solar heat, i have a heat pump. Only solar i have is good old Sol

My point with the SWCG problems described above probably have more to do with the size of the unit relative to pool size, run time, presence of algea, too low CYA or a combination of all 4 rather than phosphates which are basically irrelevent.