Can't get top of Hayward Super II pump off!!

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laff66

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LifeTime Supporter
Apr 18, 2007
110
Plano, TX
Everytime I've removed the clear cover on top of the pump strainer basket its been extremely difficult. I've replaced the o-ring, lubricated the heck out of it, and been careful not to overtighten it (at least I thought)!
I'm wondering if this is normal, and if anyone has any ideas on how to make this easier. I've tried to remove it recently and cannot get it to budge. During a remodel last year, one of the guys who was working on it couldn't get it either, and he had popeye forearms! He finally got it loose after starting the pump but we thought the PVC was going to give first. I pulled so hard this morning that I had to quit because I was twisting the pipes so hard that either they or a muscle in my back was about to give.
Is there a better wrench out there, or has somebody ever made one? The one that came with the house is about twice as wide as the ridges on the cover so its ridiculously ineffective. The body of the pump that holds the basket has tabs on it so I'm also wondering if there's a different cover available.
 
Over-tightening the top just has to be a guy thing. :hammer: I've never had a man/boy not over-tighten it. :blah: Sorry, I couldn't resist.

I have a tool made of metal that is hard to describe and wonderful. I'll try to post a pic before tomorrow. But in the meantime you can try other things. A piece of PVC pipe that will fit between the handle and top. Nudge it a little at a time, maybe nudging the wrong way a tiny bit. DO NOT USE BRUTE FORCE. NUDGE is the best way I can describe how to move it. You can also use a broom or mop handle. Just remember NUDGE NUDGE NUDGE.

Also, make sure there is no air "lock" of any kind in the equipment that would cause a suction into the basket. Shut off valves, as you normally do to keep the water from gushing out on you. Gosh, I've always had a pumping station below grade so keeping water pressure to its lowest has aways helped but I'm not sure if that applies, at all to, a ground level station. And I don't have to deal with air locks but thought I mention that in case it can cause suction at the pump pot.

Next time you put the top back on see if you can round up a female to do it. :-D I hand screw the top on then give it a less than 1/4 turn with the tool.

gg=alice
 
Craftsman has an oil filter wrench that is rubber with a plastic handle. I use that succer on everything including unions and the lid to the basket. Even works on jar lids. :goodjob:

You can buy it online or at your local Sears store.
 
Sometimes is easier to loosen the lid while the pump is running. Don't worry, the pump suction will hold it on. After the lid is rotated slightly, turn the pump off and remove the lid.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I have a metal wrench, but it's not a tight fit so I don't know if it's the one that came with it or not. PVC would be way too flexible at this point, but maybe I could slide a piece of rebar in there. I've been pretty careful not to overtighten, and do it pretty much how someone suggested, with about a 1/4 turn, I guess our ideas of hand tight could be different though. I've had air leaks with a looser top so maybe I should inspect the two surfaces a little closer for damage. In the past I've always had to have the pump running to get it off, and I do have to watch suction issues, as the pump is a few feet higher than the pool. This time is kicking my rear, though! I didn't think of a wrench between the lugs before, thanks for the idea, Im at work all night tonight but will try it first thing tomorrow.
 
If the seal is correct around the o-ring (not damaged or out of it's groove), the suction from the pump will hold the lid in place.

There is no reason to tighten it at all since your pump is above the water line of the pool......the lid should stay sealed pump running or not and just barely, barely snug.
 
One thing that could my attention. You twisted so much that the pvc pipes started to bend. Isn't your pump secured to the slab? If not, I suggest putting a couple concrete anchors and large flat washers to secure the pump. You don't need it tight, but it keeps the pump from twisting.
 
Sadly, no its not anchored. I don't have a good excuse other than my hammer drill died a LONG time ago and I haven't replaced it. Plus the pump motor started making some horrible noises a few months ago and I figured it would be replaced before long. I haven't really researched it yet, but I'm sure there are some more energy efficient models out there that would have a different footprint and would have to be re-drilled. Okay, bottom line is I've been too lazy to do it....
 
I made a decision not to bolt mine down.....I have no idea if it's right or wrong. The pump is indoors on a concrete slab so I just slipped a thin 1/16 rubber cushion under it and let it rest on the floor.

My reasoning was it would put minimum amount of stress on the PVC piping if it was allowed to seek a "neutral" position by being able to walk a little bit. I thought it might be quieter too but I don't think it helped at all.
 

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duraleigh said:
My reasoning was it would put minimum amount of stress on the PVC piping if it was allowed to seek a "neutral" position by being able to walk a little bit. I thought it might be quiter too but I don't think it helped at all.
Click to expand...

That is the reason that I don't have mine screwed down new although the screws came off and I was too lazy to reinstall them. :oops:
 
I couldn't fashion a new wrench, as the "bar" on the top of the lid is solid. I was thinking it had two sides with space in between, but it does not. Tried the brute force method again and it did the trick this time. When re-installing, I lubed it up really well and didn't tighten it as much. Seems to be okay. I'm still wondering if anyone knows if I can put a different type lid on it. It has tabs on the body with holes in them, which seem like they could be used with some type of lid that also had tabs and a cotter pin of some sort? Seems like I've seen that type setup somewhere, but have no idea what type of pump it was on....
 
I took pictures of my "wrench", in case anyone else has problems. I use it, also, to turn the one, ancient, ball valve. It is the BEST. It was here when we moved in, 23 yrs ago, so I have no idea who the maker is or where to get one. My pump pot top is clear with a 1" or so handle that goes across the whole top. I've purchased several of those, over the years, from Leslie's.

IMG_3424.jpg


IMG_3425.jpg
 
BTW.... with an acrylic top, the only one I "know", it is a good idea to occasionally remove the O-ring and clean it and the threads on top and pot before lubing. Fine particles (in my case sand/silt) can stick to those parts and make it a lot harder to put on and take off and get "jammed". The particles, sticking to the lube, act like little spikes.

gg=alice
 
Same wrench I already have. I also clean and re-lube the o-ring (or replace it) each time. I wrapped a towel around the handle this time to keep it from digging into my fingers so much and was able to remove it that way. I don't know why it seems to stick so bad??
 
laff66 said:
Same wrench I already have. I also clean and re-lube the o-ring (or replace it) each time. I wrapped a towel around the handle this time to keep it from digging into my fingers so much and was able to remove it that way. I don't know why it seems to stick so bad??
Click to expand...

I've had them "stick" or "jam" when some of the threads on the top get slightly damaged or roughened. That's when I know to purchase a new top.

gg=alice
 
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