New to TFP

[zooming993]

Hello,

I am new to TFP and pool ownership. We live in the Northeast and our pool was completed in August of this year. Pool details are as follows:

Type: In Ground Concrete (Shotcrete) Freeform 18’ X 40’
Gallons: 24K
Finish: Diamond Brite, French Grey
Equipment: Jandy DEV60 Filter
Jandy LXI400 Heater
Jandy 2HP Stealth Pump
Hayward CL220 Chlorinator

After reading a multitude of posts on the subject of closing a pool, I’ve decided to do the closing myself. As for the pool cover, I will be installing a Meyco Rugged Mesh safety cover. I think I have a pretty good idea how I’ll go about closing our pool but I do plan on asking a few (ok more then a few) questions. As I understand it one of the first things I need to do is balance the chemicals, with this in mind I have a couple questions:

1. Does the water temperature need to be at a specific temperature before I add the winterizing chemicals?
2. I plan on closing the pool this weekend and I’ve tested the water every other day and I’ve gotten the following results:

Date-----CL------ TCL----- PH------ ALK----- Hard---- CYA

10/3-----5.61---- 5.61---- 8------- 88------ 356----- 26
10/5---- 4.2------ 4.2----- 8.1----- 80------ 368----- 51
10/7---- 3.01---- 3.03---- 8.4----- 88------ 354----- 44

Are these chemical reading ok to start closing the pool?

Thank you[*]

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP.

You need to get your pH down to about 7.5, or maybe even down around 7.2. Your pool surface and warranty depend on controlling your pH. With new plaster, it's going to continue climbing. My inclination in your situation would be to keep the pool open as long as possible so you can keep the pH under control as long as possible. Your CYA shouldn't be varying like that, which implies your test results aren't accurate.

There really isn't any need for winterizing chemicals. Some people like to add algaecide or raise the chlorine level, but I've not found it to make much difference in what I open to in the spring. I just vacuum, freeze protect, put the cover on and then open before the water gets very warm.

 

[zooming993]

Thank you for the reply. I just added some PH reducer so hopefully the PH will drop. As for keeping the pool open, we are surrounded by large trees which are within a week or so from dropping their leaves. I'm afraid if I keep the pool much longer I'm going to have a real mess on my hands. Is there an optimum water temperature to close and open?

 

[duraleigh]

Is there an optimum water temperature to close and open?

The cooler the water temp, the less chance for algae growth. There is no exact point but temps below 60 degress seem to retard the majority of algae.

You don't say where in the Northeast you live but my bet is your water temp is below that now.

How are you getting those test results? It appears that is a test strip with a digital readout.

 

[Butterfly]

Hi zooming993 and welcome to the forum

I'll not call it a magical number, but 60* is what I use for my "gotta-get-my-pool-cranked-up-number" in the spring.

It's difficult (but not impossible) for algae to grow at 60* or below.

But, as JohnT said, keep your pool open as long as possible to keep your pH under control and keep brushing.

Again, as JT said, your tests read as unreliable. I can tell you that having a reliable test kit will put you in control of your pool. Period.
The TF100 sold by duraleigh at http://www.TFTestKits.net is the best bang for the buck.

You can compare recommended test kits here in Pool School.

We're glad to have you as a new member and wish you good luck with your pool. :-D

 

[zooming993]

Thank you for the replies. We live in Eastern PA, we turned off the heater a few days ago so the water temp. is little higher then it should be (65 degrees). As for the test equipment, I'm using the Lamotte ColorQ Pro 7. I was told this is one of the better testers on the market, I'm starting to wonder if it's a operator error?

 

[duraleigh]

I was told this is one of the better testers on the market, I'm starting to wonder if it's a operator error

No, you can be pretty sure it's not operator error but some deficiencies in the Color Q's testing method.

Several folks here have reported issues with them...particularly on CYA and possibly pH (I can't remember for sure if the other parameter was pH but I know they are infamously inaccurate for CYA)

Anyway, it sounds like you are pretty close and, with the heater off, should get to 60 very quickly. I'd probably put in a jug or two of Clorox and close it up at that point. The Clorox will likely kill any algae that tries to get a foot hold as your water continuesw to cool.