Aquarite Goldline Controls -What do the numbers on LCD mean?

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C

Cyclops

0
Jul 9, 2009
4
Our pool was built about 6 weeks ago. It is 18 X 32 ft (~20000gal) vinyl linered salt water filter (SWG) automatic chlorine generator with Aquarite (Goldline) control box.

What do each of these numbers mean when we press the diagnostic button. With each push of the button, the numbers cycle
2.50
31
30.9
0.00
41P
-0.00
AL- 0
!- 1.50
t- 15
Output knob is set at 40%.
The Aquarite manual is rudimentary and does not help.

My 8 year old is complaining of eyes burning.

thanks
 
Google is your friend(I find it handy, too!), I went here -
http://www.goldlinecontrols.com/Support/Manuals.aspx
and chose the Installation and Operation Manual for Aqua Rite (standard) and Aqua Rite XL
on page 17 of the pdf file(page 14 in the paper manual)
Diagnostic Displays
Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will
cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell voltage (typically 22.0 to 25.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise
30-35V)
3. Cell current (typically 4.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise
0 amps)
4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote
pool automation controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies
"Aqua Rite")
7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
On the 8th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the
standard salt display.

1. So it looks like your SWCG calls itself AL-0, has software version 1.50.
2. Your salinity is 2.5 grams/Liter (2500 ppm is kinda low, you might need to add salt)
3. Pool temperature is 31(probably celsius?)
4. Cell voltage is 30.9 Volts and current is 0 amps(it was not on when you were reading it,)
5. Your output knob is set at 41%.
You either wrote some of these numbers down out of order, or I found the wrong manual! The more detail (Model numbers, names etc..) about your equipment that you can provide, the better answers you'll get. You can put the info in your signature line. It would be helpful for you to read the Pool School part of the forum to gain a better understanding of the terminology people use here, and how easy it is to enjoy your pool with minimal trouble. Ph is usually what causes eye irritation, with a SWCG, it will rise if you don't add acid as needed. The only way to know when it is needed is to have a good test kit, and employ it daily. Once you feel comfortable enough with the way your pool behaves, you'll love the SWCG!
Welcome to TFP! and Best Wishes
 
The last number t-15 stands for the turbocell 15, the one for up to 40k gallons. This is a relatively new, 8th diagnostic number, so the 9th push of the button takes you back to the average salinity.

The reason your instant salinity is zero is because it wasn't generating at the time.
 
Sometimes you can hear the SWG make a click sound and that is when it is generating and you can read the numbers on the panel. You can also change it to read Fahrenheit instead of Celcius if you prefer, as follows:

The factory default display is in English units (ppm). If Metric units (grams per liter) are
preferred, push the small button next the display once. The display will now show the
pool temperature. With the temperature displayed, move the main switch from AUTO to
SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO. The temperature display will instantly switch
to Celsius and the salt display will switch to grams/liter. Repeat this process to switch
back to English units. (ppm and Fahrenheit)
 
Thank you for all the responses. We are learning a lot thanks to this forum.

The readings this afternoon (after changing the unit of measurement) were..

2500
86
24.6
5.51
41P
-2600
AL-0
r 1.50
t-15
check salt and check cell lights have been flashing for a week.
 
for the person who asked for a current test results ....you mean a water analysis.... we haven't tested the water at home. A water analysis at a pool store last week reported high chlorine. They advised not to do anything and to retest in a week. They also said since the chlorine level is too high it makes all the other levels like ph etc unreliable!?
 
I would recommend bringing up your salt level. These panels are known for showing a lower level than the actual salt level because they test using a formula of TDS (total dissolved solids). Go to the Pool Calculator on this site, and enter the number of gallons of your pool. Then put in 2600 for your current level and 2900 for the level you want to bring it too. It's better to add too little salt at first, than too much because if you add too much, you will have to drain some water and refill. I would also recommend getting some salt test strips, such as the Aquachek ones. They are more accurate than your panel.
 

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Re: Aquarite -LCD numbers & Testing Kits Vs Strips

Being absolute newbies, I have a few questions on testing kits/strips.

I assume we can do all the testing at home if we have the kits. So far, we went to the nearest pool store for testing.I see from my research here, there are mainly two type of kits, Tft and Taylor. Also, I hear about strips.

1). What is the difference between the kits and strips? Is it that Kits can test all the required parameters whereas strips are limited to one or few but easier to test. How labor intensive is testing with kits? Any accuracy issues with each?
Which one should we buy?

2). Shelf life of kits. As the swimming season will shortly end here with the onset of fall (shedding leaves, falling temps) in about a month or so, if I but a kit next week, will it be good for testing for next season?

thanks
 
I believe the test kits such as the TF100 and the K-2006 are more accurate than test strips and pool store testing (with the exception of testing for salt, the strips are supposed to be pretty accurate). Here is a comparison between the TF100 and the K-2006:

pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison

As far as how long they last, hopefully someone who knows will post. I would think as long as it's stored properly, it should last through next season as well.

When I first got my TF100, I was pretty intimidated, having never tested before. I was surprised how easy it was. I actually like testing, it's like having your own chemistry set to play with :)
 
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