Is test kit really needed?

Aug 2, 2009
2
I'm really posting this just to brag and reinforce how good the theories here are. I started out a month ago with 0 chlorine, ta at 330, 0 cya and ph at 8+ (and serious calcium deposits on tile). Pure neglect on my part. Pool store told me to shock stabilizer and add acid (ends up being good advice). Immediately I started seeing results when I tested with my 4 way kit I bought at HD for $14. A few days after visiting the pool store I found this site and I decided to employ the BBB method and techniques for lower ph and ta which were not and have never been mentioned at the pool store.

Well, it took a month but I finally have my number where I feel good. cl is 3, ph is 7.2, ta is 70-80 and cya is 60. I'm sure the ph will creep up so I'm not worried about it at this time. My pool has never looked better.

So for my question. I feel like I got incredible results using a low budget 4 way test kit. So, is it really worth the $70 to go for a more advanced kit? It seems to me the theory here is so simple a simple test kit will suffice.
 
First, with your CYA level at 60 your target FC level should be 7. It shouldn't be allowed below 5 without risk of algae. If or when you do get an algae bloom, you'll need to chlorinate to shock level of 24.

Having said that, you will find that the levels you should be maintaining are beyond the range of most simple testers, and you can't accurately measure it. You can dilute the sample with distilled water and multiply the result, but the accuracy goes down by the same multiplier. It can be really difficult to keep your chlorine up effectively without being able to measure it.

CAN it be done with a lesser kit? Yep. I've done it in the past with both OTO and DPD kits, but I have a FAS/DPD kit now, and love it. Without a FAS/DPD test, you have to dilute/multiply your tests, and you need to make good use of the pool calculator to be sure you're getting enough chlorine in your pool. You will, however, likely put in more time and effort than what the kit costs.
 
Roscoe's Pool said:
cl is 3, ph is 7.2, ta is 70-80 and cya is 60. I'm sure the ph will creep up so I'm not worried about it at this time.

Your FC (if that number is FC and not TC) is at the lower end of the recommended range for a SWG pool. You might want to bump the output up a bit. Your pH is a little low but like you said, it'll be coming up. TA is dead on. Your CYA might be a tad low. Check your SWG's owners manual and see what they recommend it to be.

Roscoe's Pool said:
So, is it really worth the $70 to go for a more advanced kit?

It's Absolutely worth it!!! At some point you should do an overnite chlorine drop test and I'm not sure that's possible with your kit.
 
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