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Thread: Pentair TR100 Filter

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    Pentair TR100 Filter

    Hello Everyone - I've had a recent repeating problem with my 7 year old Pentair TR100 filter. I've never changed the sand in it that cleans the water and the guy at the pool store is telling me that the sand needs changing. It makes sense how he describes the problem. Does anyone out there know where I could find instructions on how to change the sand in this filter? I appreciate the help!

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    Can you describe the problem to us?
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    The water in the pool is turning green. I've added a lot of chlorine and various other chemicals, based on the results of the water tests at the pool store, and within a day or two it starts to turn green again. When I take the water to the pool store, the guy says there's no chlorine left. I tell him I can't keep buying chlorine, that there has to be another problem. He started asking me questions about the filter. When he found out that I never changed the sand, he said that was the problem. He said that as the sand filters the water over and over, eventually the sharp edges on the sand are worn down and it doesn't do a good job. And he also says the sand gets dense and the pressure in the filter will go up, and it has. Does he sound correct?

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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    Okay, well the sand definately needs to be changed. Chlorine users want to change the sand every 3-5 years. Also, has the pool store checked for phosphates and/or Nitrates? They can have a big impact on chlorine residual. What type of chlorine are you using? How long have you noticed that the pool wasn't holding a chlorine level? Is it something recent?

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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    Your pool problem has nothing to do with sand. It is because of inadequate chlorine in your pool. You need to start reading in pool school and understand the function of chlorine.....that's what keeps your pool from turning green. There are many here on the forum who's sand is older than 10 years. Mine is 6-7 and the pool is sparkling.

    There is also a good chance you have no CYA which adds to your chlorine loss.

    In any event, if you can post a complete sete of test resuilts, we will all hel[p you get your pool crystal clear.......but it's going top take chlorine.....there's no other way.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    Quote Originally Posted by rjaysea
    The water in the pool is turning green. I've added a lot of chlorine and various other chemicals, based on the results of the water tests at the pool store, and within a day or two it starts to turn green again. When I take the water to the pool store, the guy says there's no chlorine left. I tell him I can't keep buying chlorine, that there has to be another problem. He started asking me questions about the filter. When he found out that I never changed the sand, he said that was the problem. He said that as the sand filters the water over and over, eventually the sharp edges on the sand are worn down and it doesn't do a good job. And he also says the sand gets dense and the pressure in the filter will go up, and it has. Does he sound correct?
    Hi rjaysea,

    What we really need is a full set of water test results. You are fighting algae and we can't help without knowing the numbers. We need:
    FC
    CC
    pH
    TA
    CH
    CYA

    The sand in your sand filter is probably just fine. The pressure goes up when it is trying to clear algae and junk from a pool. That is normal. What is your clean psi reading and how high is it reading? Usually, we backwash when the psi rises 6 higher than the clean filter psi.

    It would also be helpful to have your pool and equipment specs added to your sig.
    Go to Pool School (upper right button) and read the first few articles.
    They will explain how to add the needed info.

    Welcome to the forum
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    dmanb2b's Avatar
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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    Quote Originally Posted by katthepoolchick
    Okay, well the sand definately needs to be changed. Chlorine users want to change the sand every 3-5 years. Also, has the pool store checked for phosphates and/or Nitrates? They can have a big impact on chlorine residual. What type of chlorine are you using? How long have you noticed that the pool wasn't holding a chlorine level? Is it something recent?

    Kat...this is simply not true about sand. Sadly this seems to be another case of an overstabilized pool with inadequate chlorine levels. Phosphates and Nitrates may help algae live, but chlorine kills algae


    To the OP...click on poolschool...read it thouroughly, get a good test kit and be prepared to shock your water with liquid chlorine...we have an article for the shocking process as well
    24'x52" AGP (13,500 Gallons), Intex SWG, (2)Solar Bear 4x20 panels, Hayward S220T Filter, 1/2hp Pentair Superflo

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    Whatever issue you may or may not be having with the sand, it has nothing to do with the pool being green. Old sand doesn't filter quite as well, but the difference is small and will not cause the pool to turn green. Many people never change their sand, and they don't have any significant problems because of that. After seven years, it is a reasonable time to change the sand, but doing so won't solve your current problem.

    I am sure we can help you solve your current problem, but to do that we need a full set of water test results, as Butterfly suggested.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    I didn't state that the sand change was going to get rid of the green pool. The reason the pressure on a sand filter increases is due to dirty sand. If you are having to backwash a filter once a week that is too much. When your sand is that old it can take longer to clean the pool up. I do not disagree with the fact that chlorine is going to clear the pool up, but in order for you to get the most effectiveness from your shocks, you need to have a good pH level as well as a cyanuric level of at least 30ppm. I deal with pools everyday and I usually can clear a green pool up within 48hrs. If you remove high phospahtes then algae won't have anything to eat to grow. Natural Chemistry have great phosphate products.

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    Quote Originally Posted by katthepoolchick
    I didn't state that the sand change was going to get rid of the green pool. The reason the pressure on a sand filter increases is due to dirty sand.
    Actually, old sand works pretty good for most of us with sand filters. The psi increases due to your filter cleaning algae and gunk from your pool water. This is NORMAL. When your psi increases about 6 over your clean psi reading, it is time to backwash.

    If you are having to backwash a filter once a week that is too much.
    That depends on WHAT the OP is trying to filter/clear up! This spring, I had to backwash TWICE a day to clean up gunk and my pool was not green!

    When your sand is that old it can take longer to clean the pool up.
    We have some members with sand really, really old (up to 20 yesrs old) and have no plans to change it.

    I do not disagree with the fact that chlorine is going to clear the pool up, but in order for you to get the most effectiveness from your shocks, you need to have a good pH level as well as a cyanuric level of at least 30ppm.
    "At least 30" is for those that run on unstabilized chlorine. Recommended levels are listed in Pool School. It all depends on your method of chlorination.

    I deal with pools everyday and I usually can clear a green pool up within 48hrs.
    Here, I will simply question the "side effects" of your 48 hour cure. There are NO magic bullets! Most of the BBB users here rarely have a need to shock their pool(s).....unless they are doing it for a specific reason, such as vacation, winterizing, fecal accident, etc.

    If you remove high phospahtes then algae won't have anything to eat to grow. Natural Chemistry have great phosphate products.
    We deal with swamps on a daily basis, and I am guessing more than you do. Phosphates are irrelevent in almost ALL cases of clearing a pool. Phosphate removers are just a scare tactic from pool stores to sell more unnecessary products.

    Please spend some time in Pool School and post any questions you may have in the Deep End for discussion.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  11. Back To Top    #11

    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    Thanks for all the feedback! OK, here are the test results that I just received about an hour ago (4 pounds of chloro bright chlorine were added two days ago):

    FAC - 0 (!)
    TAC - 0 (!)
    CYA - 95 (OK)
    TA - 100 (OK)
    pH - 7.2 (OK)
    TDS - 1700 (OK)
    Pho - 2000 ppb (Wow!)

    The phosphate condition was probably always there, but we just didn't notice it. So now, I running the pool for 48 hours with 3 liters of PHOSfree from Natural Chemistry. I'll get back to you all in a couple of days!

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    Given how high your phosphate level is, PhosFree is going to be both expensive and troublesome. I really don't recommend it. Having phosphates in the pool is really not a problem, my phosphate level is around 4,000 (and has been higher) and I never have any problems. Pool stores push phosphate removers because it makes them money, not because it is a good solution for the problem you are having.

    Your fundamental problem is the high CYA level. High CYA levels make chlorine less effective than it would be at lower CYA level. You have two choices, either lower the CYA level or use massive amounts of chlorine to compensate for the high CYA level.

    I recommend replacing about 40% of your water with new water, to get your CYA level down to around 60. Then shock the pool with a chlorine source that does not contain CYA, preferably liquid chlorine or bleach.

    Chlor Brite contains CYA. Every time you use it your CYA level goes up and it becomes more difficult to keep your pool sanitized.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Pentair TR100 Filter

    CYA OF 95 is not "OK".

    Unless you have an SWG anything over 50-60 is too high.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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