Hayward H Series Above Ground Pool Heater

[carmita]

Hi my pool heater just began to stop working. When I initially turn it on, it lights and stays hot. After an approximate 15 minutes, the flame goes out and no longer heats the water. The fan is still on and gas is flowing but the flame is not on.

I attempted to reset it it by removing the front panel and turning the gas valve to off for 5 mins. It still has the same issues as described above. Water flow is good, filter is clean.

It is an Hayward H Series Above ground heater with an electronic igniter.

 

[spishex]

When you said the gas is still flowing, did you mean gas or water? Is the flame going out without the valve closing?

 

[carmita]

Gas... I do not smell gas but the exhaust is blowing (not hot air). I do not see the burner on but I checked my gas meter and it is running,

 

[spishex]

Hm. The flame sensor should kick the valve off. How long does it run like that before the valve closes (does it eventually close?)? Is the heater outside? For the flame to go out you'd need to either suffocate it (completely enclosed space), blow it out (very high wind, heater located in a heavy downdraft area like in the corner of two tall walls), or cut off the fuel (since the valve isn't closed maybe there's air in the line?).

Is it propane or natural gas? I assume from the meter checking that it's NG, which would make it very unlikely that you're getting interrupted fuel. What's the heater's location like? Outdoors, next to any buildings, etc.?

 

[carmita]

It is located outdoors. I attempted to replace the ingitor/flame sensor. Still recieving the same symptoms. Heater ignites with flame for 15-20 mins. Flame goes out but fan/exhaust is still running.

 

[spishex]

Well, it sounds like a high limit or thermostat problem except that would cut off the gas valve. So, if you're not absolutely positive the gas valve is staying open then find the wires to the high limit switch and test conductivity across it (or jump it) immediately after the heater kicks off. You'll also have to jump the access panel switch if your heater has one. If that doesn't do the trick then reconnect the high limit and check the thermostat. If it turns out to be either of those you'll want to check to make sure the heater is getting sufficient water flow before buying a replacement part.

 

[krcossin]

I have the same heater, and am having a similar problem except that it will heat for a couple minutes (I think cool it's fixed) then it stops heating, blower is running, gas does not keep flowing, then after several minutes the blower shuts off and the heater will not work again until I try the reset procedure.

I'm not trying to hijack your thread, more like I am giving you a bump for the hopes someone with this experience will chime in to lend a hand to us.

 

[waste]

Both these problems sound like a high limit switch (the fan will run after the gas is shut off as krcossin pointed out) However, IF the gas is still flowing, I'd suspect the motherboard or perhaps the AGS switch, though I've only had to replace ~ 1/2 dozen AGS's over the years.

Did either of you rely on pucks to chlorinate the pool and poor or no testing, if so the 'heater eaters' (my pet term for tri-chlor pucks :lol: ) ate the high limit switch, and possibly others, and has damaged the heat exchanger itself :x

 

[krcossin]

I only used pucks for vacations a couple years ago, now that I have the Liquidator all levels have stabilized.
Is replacing the high limit switch a no brainer? Any tips/advice you have to offer?

 

[spishex]

The high limits (inlet and outlet) are part #4 on this diagram. Jump or check continuity across both of them to be sure they're the issue, and verify that you have enough water flow to keep the unit from overheating before you replace them. It's a pretty easy operation.