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Thread: Pristine Blue

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    Pristine Blue

    I am new to the forum. My new inground pool was just filled a week ago. 16,000 gallon pool. I have chosen to go no-chlorine and use a method of Pristine Blue. Is any one familiar with this method. I have already ran into a Phosphate situation after the first major swim last weekend and have been working with the pool store to get it cleared. It is a slow process. 4 days later starting to see progress. I just want to see others who have experienced Pristine Blue if they are happy.

  2. Back To Top    #2
    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    SWSuburban Chicago, IL

    Re: Pristine Blue

    I'll say this as nice as I can, you are being pool stored. Phosphates are not a problem, provided you maintain proper chlorine levels.

    You do not want to use Pristine Blue.

    Do a Google Search (bottom left corner) of the threads that discuss Pristine Blue.

    Here is an article about "alternative sanitizers":
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    Perfectly Clear Pool Service, Find me on Facebook!

  3. Back To Top    #3
    JasonLion's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Silver Spring, MD

    Re: Pristine Blue

    There are a number of former Pristine Blue users on the forum. I don't know of anyone who has had a good experience with it over the long term, though it can work for a time.

    Removing phosphates from the water is just an overpriced misdirection. Low phosphate levels will cover up some of the symptoms of the fact that the Pristine Blue isn't really working. If the pool is properly sanitized, it doesn't make any difference what your phosphate level is. If the pool is not properly sanitized, reducing phosphates can keep you from getting algae, but it won't do anything to kill bacteria or viruses.

    You should also keep in mind that Pristine Blue is not an EPA approved sanitizer. It is only approved for use in combination with a sanitizer (chlorine, bromine, or baquacil).

    Nearly everything that people have against chlorine isn't actually true. Almost every problem chlorine has is when it is used improperly. If you use chlorine as recommended here, you won't have any of the problems that people normally attribute to chlorine.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Re: Pristine Blue

    I appreciate all the response. I do realize that chlorine is the old favorite, no doubt, I do use some low level of chlorine as a part of the routine, although, being so new I am not sure I have a routine yet. The biggest thing I did notice is my PH keeps dropping after the rains come. I will have to investigate that next, as I know this can't be a good thing.

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    In the Industry

    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Sebring, Florida

    Re: Pristine Blue

    The biggest thing I did notice is my PH keeps dropping after the rains come. I will have to investigate that next, as I know this can't be a good thing.
    I know I will sound like I'm "glomming on" but I can tell you have temporarily dismissed the issue of your pool not being sanitized. Your biggest issue will soon not be your dropping pH but, most likely, a green pool filled with algae. You really should review some of the other threads on this forum written by people who are/were Pristine Blue users.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: Pristine Blue

    Copper sulfate and low chlorine levels will not keep water sanitized. Copper sulfate will keep algae at bay but clear water is not pathgen free water. Chlorine kills quickly, copper does not so it is not suitable as a pool sanitizer.
    Pristine Blue is just very expensive copper sulfate.

    You are getting ripped off and possibly putting your health in jeopardy.

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2008

    Re: Pristine Blue

    To get a different perspective on Pristine Blue go to another pool store and tell them that you have copper stains in your pool. Can they help? They will offer to sell you chemicals to remove all the copper from your pool. If you do not have copper stains now then continue with Pristine Blue and eventually you will have your pool stained.

    While the copper kills the algae you still have bacteria in the pool. You should seriously consider the BBB method or obtaining a salt water chlorine generator.

    Chlorine is the favorite because it is cheap and effective. I used some copper algaecide as recommended by the pool store and will never use it in my pool again.
    30,000 gallon gunite in-ground with a spillover spa, Diving board and water slide
    Hayward 1 HP Super II filter pump, Hayward 24 " Sand Filter Pro Series using zeolite media
    Polaris 380 cleaner with ¾ HP booster pump, Hayward Heatmaster pool heater, AutoPilot DIG-220 Power Supply SC-60 cell
    Testing with the TF-100 Test Kit

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Re: Pristine Blue

    This is my first season using the BBB method.

    1. Get a good test kit.
    2. Go to the store and buy bleach and 20 mule team borax.

    When you get home, test the water and use the pool calculator to figure out what you need to do.

    It's really that simple.
    15,000 gallon unpainted plaster. Sand filter. Polaris 380.

  9. Back To Top    #9
    amjohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Rural NE Texas

    Re: Pristine Blue

    Here is a slightly different perspective. I bought my pool last summer and the pool store happily sold me $250 worth of Pristine Blue products and told me use the system and shock weekly with %65 Calcium hypochlorite. I had just found this forum a few days before and had not had a chance to read up on all this. And since I am careful kind of person, who researches everything, I came home and carefully read the directions that said to remove all calcium before using Pristine Blue, and not use Cal-hypo shock.
    So I got on the internet and found ... .asp?FID=1. Go there and you will notice a couple things- the repeated word "Green" in the posts, the lack of post activity, and the fact that the moderator/company rep pretty much says the same thing over and over again, which is just keep using Pristine Blue per the directions and keep the PH low, and use special shampoos for hair, swimsuits, etc since they are going to turn green.
    I came back to this forum and realized that I had spent a whole lot of money for something that was not going to work for me, and that bleach made a lot more sense. I am so glad I did not ever put the Pristine Blue in my pool, and ended up selling the stuff on e-bay, taking a loss, because the pool store would not take the stuff back (said it was "illegal") nor would Pristine Blue respond to my requests to refund the money.
    You can do what you want with your pool, but I suggest you do some deeper research. What I found was that the careful user got 3 acceptable years with Pristine Blue (assuming they were extremely careful and willing to have green hair) and then things went downhill fast from there. I am happily enjoying a non-stop 2-3 times a day swim experience with bleach and Borates (and a little dry acid occasionally because we have high pH in our area)- no algae, no cloudiness, no ridiculously expensive chemicals, and no green hair.
    Just a little personal experience.
    28 ft round Doughboy Sand Dollar II AGP, Aug 2008: 4 ft shallow, 6ft deep end: 24K gal approx Hayward Power-Flo Matrix
    1&1/2-HP 2-SPD Pump, Hayward 27-Inch Sand Filter with a little DE -(2) 4ftx20ft Solar Bear AGP Panels w/ Goldline auto-controller, 50ppm Borates And some day, maybe this year, a DECK!!!

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