TF 100 Test Kit Question

[ybnormal]

In the test kit, the blue box, what exactly is the YELLOW side telling you? I know the right side is the PH but don't really understand the CL/Br side (I think that is what it is, don't have the kit here in front of me). And is it really necessary to do daily?

Thanks,
YBnormal...have a pool

 

[duraleigh]

The yellow side is to test for chlorine (disregard the "Br" nymbers, that's for bromine and I assume you don't use bromine)

So, you have two chlorine tests....what's up with that? Use the yellow side of the comparator and test daily at first and then you will let the testing taper off as you get familiar with your pool. That test is not particularly precise but it will always tell you if you have some chlorine. Sort of like reassurance.

Then, when you need to know exactly how much chlorine you have, use the FAS/DPD test that involves the powder and the Reagent R-0871. It is very, very accurate and used to shock, do an overnite FC loss test, and to accurately check the chlorine in the pool anytime you feel the need. Most folks perform all the tests once weekly until they get familiar with their pool and then less often after that.

 

[ybnormal]

Thanks for the response. So it take it that that is just a quick reference to your CC level or is it just FC?

Thanks all of you for your help, to a newbe like me you guys are priceless.

Pool 3K, Installation 1.5K, TF Website PRICELESS

 

[duraleigh]

So it take it that that is just a quick reference to your CC level or is it just FC?

TC.

FC + CC = TC (total chlorine)

 

[crek31]

The yellow side, labeled Cl shows you TC (total chlorine). This confused me for a while as well. I don't know why the yellow side is labeled Cl as opposed to TC, but, as duraleigh explained, TC is the sum of FC and CC. If all looks good with your water (it is clear) you can often assume there is little to no CC and thus the reading on your yellow side will be your FC reading (FC + Zero CC=TC). If the water doesn't look right or you have another reason for greater accuracy, use the FAS-DPD test to distinguish with precision your FC and CC. BTW, as I understand it, Bromide is an alternative sanitizer to chlorine -- that's why you don't use it or need to test for it on BBB.

 

[DanK]

:-D how accurate is the ph side of the test ?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

:-D how accurate is the ph side of the test ?

Very.

 

[DanK]

Thanks FPM i was just wondering . since they where talking about how inacurate the clorine test was . :-D

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

It's not that it's "inaccurate", it's just not as useful when compared to the FAS-DPD, and it's hard to tell TC from FC.

 

[DanK]

well i ment to say its hard to tell the diference in the yellow color for me anyway I thought it was off the scale so I checked it with the other test and it was 4 ppm FC and 0 ppm CC so all is good . my T/a was real high 350 so im trying to get it down now. oh on the t/A test you add oo9 til the whole sample turns red right :?:

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

The TA test - wipe the tip of the dropper bottle in between drops, with a damp cloth. This eliminates static electricity that has caused some folk's TA to report much higher than it really is. It's kinda "magenta-pink" to me....rather than a true "red". If it's really that high - have you read the How To article for lowering TA? Check out Pool School.

 

[DanK]

Thanks for the tip FPM :-D Ive been reading this site since may before i got my pool set up. This is a great site and I want to thank everybody for their time and info. Im glad i found it first before i set up my pool. IM airating and adding acid right now to try and get it down .Ill use the tip you gave me. when I check my t/a again . :-D

 

[DanK]

t/a is now down to 210 ppm thanks FPM (ive been airating and adding acid since friday)