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Thread: Question about pH rising...

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    Question about pH rising...

    I live in South Florida and I seem to have to add about a quart of acid every three days or so to keep it in the 7.4 range. Here is my last water test results:

    FC-6.0
    pH-7.8
    T/A-130
    CH-320
    CYA-70
    Temp-88

    Water is clear and I have a spa that spills into the main pool for aeration. Is it normal to have to continue adding acid at this rate to get the pH down in the 7.4 to 7.6 level?

    Thanks in advnce for any input.
    South Florida. 20,000 gallons; 16x35 rectangular gunite; Pentair Intelliflo VF Variable Speed Pump; Hayward cartridge; Aqua Rite SWG. Dolphin Oasis Z5 Robotic Pool Cleaner; Kopec 540sc Electric Heat pump pool heater; Pool built in Spring 2004.

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Question about pH rising...

    If you keep adding acid, which will also lower the TA, you should eventually get the TA into the 70-90 range and see more stable PH.

    Your TA is higher which is why the araetion causes the PH to rise frequently. You don't want to add any TA increasing products like Baking Soda.

    You can simply add acid as you have been doing, every time the PH creeps up to 7.8 lower it to 7.2. Don't add anything to increase the TA, and it should lower into range eventually. If you want to speed the process up, you can follow the instructions for Lowering TA in Pool School.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Question about pH rising...

    Quote Originally Posted by johnd13
    Is it normal to have to continue adding acid at this rate to get the pH down in the 7.4 to 7.6 level?
    Yes, it is normal. You have aeration from you spillover spa and a little high TA.

    Eventually, your TA will lower based your MA additions and the pH rise will be slower.

    You could do the "How to Lower TA" in Pool School as FPM mentioned, but you will get there without that anyway.
    It will just take a little longer.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Guest

    Re: Question about pH rising...

    How new is your pool? If the plaster is not over a year then a high acid demand is normal since the plaster is still leaching alkaline material into the water in addition to your high TA and constant aeration.

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    Join Date
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    Re: Question about pH rising...

    That's not it; OP's sig says "Pool built in Spring 2004." Must be just an artifact of the high TA and aeration.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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    Re: Question about pH rising...

    Thanks everyone. Sounds like I will eventually get there

    This is a great resource. I had been wandering aimlessly for the last 4 years without a clue as the water was clear and every once and a while I'd add a bag of salt. It was not until my SWG cell acted up a couple months back and I ran the salt level up to 4700 due to a bad reading that I started looking closer at my testing. The people at Leslie Pool kept telling me to add a quart of MA and I would and the come back next week and they would once again say add a quart of MA. Then I found this place through a Google search and got a test kit and starting taking care of my pool.
    South Florida. 20,000 gallons; 16x35 rectangular gunite; Pentair Intelliflo VF Variable Speed Pump; Hayward cartridge; Aqua Rite SWG. Dolphin Oasis Z5 Robotic Pool Cleaner; Kopec 540sc Electric Heat pump pool heater; Pool built in Spring 2004.

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Question about pH rising...

    oops I completely missed that you have a SWG.

    If it was my pool, I'd go ahead and lower the TA as per instructions in Pool School.

    Pool School has an article for Water Balance Tips for SWG's.

    Also, here's a link to waterbear's water balance tips for SWG's which has more info.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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