K-1000 vs DPD Test

[PaulR]

Some people treat the OTO test as almost a yes/no indicator (there's something in there, just don't know how much).

Once you learn how the pool behaves, the OTO can become a quick sanity check that things haven't gone terribly wrong, and then once or twice a week or whatever you use the FAS-DPD to nail it down more precisely.

most people do not realize that it [the OTO test] needs to sit for about 3-5 minues to fully develop.

I don't think I've seen that statement before... could explain part of why the OTO and FAS-DPD don't line up as well as they ought to.
--paur

 

[JasonLion]

most people do not realize that it [the OTO test] needs to sit for about 3-5 minues to fully develop.

I don't think I've seen that statement before... could explain part of why the OTO and FAS-DPD don't line up as well as they ought to.

This depends on your CC level. If CC is zero, which it often is, then it doesn't make all that much of a difference if you wait or not. Of course, CC isn't always zero, thus the waiting.

 

[BIC]

I don't normally use the OTO. Can't tell between 2 and 5.

I think I may start to use FAS-DPD more often now.

 

[mdhwoods]

I use my fas-dpd once a week and the oto just to check and make sure my chlorine is above 5 each evening when i check the ph.

 

[Bama Rambler]

I use my FAS-DPD every day. I haven't even opened the OTO box in several weeks. I have an electronic pH meter so I don't even need it for that.

It does sound like your salt cell is fading. Though it could be that something happened and you got an algae bloom and the CL2 that the cell was making was being consumed by it.

 

[Grape Ape]

I don't have a SWG (thinking about it though) so I might be way off.

But have you checked your salt level? It should drop with back washes (especially the big one to clean the sand) and I would expect the SWG's output to drop with salt levels. I think that would also reduce the strength of the "mico shocks" in the cell...

 

[BIC]

I don't have a SWG (thinking about it though) so I might be way off.

But have you checked your salt level? It should drop with back washes (especially the big one to clean the sand) and I would expect the SWG's output to drop with salt levels. I think that would also reduce the strength of the "mico shocks" in the cell...

I have an Aqua Troll SWG and my salt level is indicated digitally. I have 3000-3100 since the beginning of the season and it mathes with the number of salt bags I put at the beginning of the season. Wehn I do a backwash and the salt level goes down a bit, I add salt immediatly.

BIC

 

[BIC]

Hi everyone,

I just want to give a quick feedback regarding my problem with green deposits at the bottom of the pool and the dying cell (SWG) :|

I decided to clean the cell with TABEX product and guess what? The cloud of bubbles (like 7up ) is back (under water) when the cell generates chlorine. Even if I don't have hard water and no dirt was apparent inside the cell, I just learned that I still have to clean the cell. Immediatly after the cleanning I saw a big change:
- the bubbles cloud is back
- I don't have to put my SWG to 30-40% to get 3-5 ppm, I now put it at 10-12% and I get 3-5 ppm.

I just had to shock the pool once, just after the cleanning. Since that time my water is clear and no more green deposites (so far - after 2 weeks)

Thanks to everyone

BIC

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Thanks for the update