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Thread: Jandy Aqualink RS/PDA Not Moving Valves

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    Jandy Aqualink RS/PDA Not Moving Valves

    Hope someone can shed some light on a problem I'm having. I have a combination pool/spa controlled by a Jandy Aqualink 4 and PDA, with 2 Jandy Valve Actuators (JVAs) on the intake and return valves. The automation was installed professionally by the pool builder when it was built, and has worked flawlessly for the last 3 years.

    A few days ago, I tried to turn the pool to spa mode, but the valves didn't move at all. The indicators lights in the power center showed that it had switched to spa mode, but the valves didn't move. Using the "1-Off-2" position switches on the underside of the JVAs, the valves turn properly, so I know they're getting power, etc. I thought that perhaps the system had gotten out of sync with what position it thought that the valves were in, so I tried various combinations of the switches, but the system simply won't change the valves. I've tried setting the control panel to "SPA", the set the valves properly using their switches, and then turning back to POOL, hoping that it would turn the valves back. They don't. It doesn't matter what position the JVA switches are in, the control unit just doesn't change them, even though the indicator light shows that it is in the proper mode.

    One interesting fact - I've tried resetting the control unit (power cycle, no battery, wipe config, etc), and when I do, sometimes when power is reapplied the valves turn to the opposite position of where they were - but I haven't found any pattern there yet, and I don't know if they're getting a signal to switch from the control unit or just "resetting" to wherever they thing they're supposed to be internally.

    I'm really not sure what else to try at this point. I've got my pool professional on standby if I need him, but I'd like to try and resolve this myself if possible. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
    17' x 25' x 48" Laguna "Portable" Pool (~12,000 Gallons)
    Intex 8111 SWG, Pump, and Filter
    3 Fafco AGP 4 x 20 Solar Bear Panels
    Dirt Devil "Pool Boy" (Pool Rover Jr.)
    BBB and a SWG make my pool care really E-Z

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    Re: Jandy Aqualink RS/PDA Not Moving Valves

    If they worked at some point and you haven't made any changes to dip switches, jumpers, etc.on the board, It's probably the chip or the board (my guess the chip) Call your pool professional and heres why, He has the luxury of swapping out parts to see what is wrong compared to you who would have to buy the parts and maybe fix it before you went broke.
    Factory Warranty Station for:
    Jandy/Zodiac, Pentair, Sta-Rite, Raypak, Polaris,
    and Paramount pool cleaning systems.

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    Re: Jandy Aqualink RS/PDA Not Moving Valves

    Good to see you on this board, PoolClown... You've helped me out before on the (apparently now defunct) poolspaforum.com.

    Strange that after I posted this, I went back out to the control panel to return one of the dip switches (the Spillover setting) to its original position (note that I was experimenting with this *after* the problem started). I shut down all power to the equipment at the breakers feeding the box, made the dip switch adjustment, and powered it back up. Magically, the valves started working again.

    Honestly, I have no idea what's happened. Everything is set exactly as it was (dip switches, JVA switches, etc) before the problem started and when it wouldn't move the valves. All I can figure is that a relay of some type (logical in the board or physical in the box) got stuck, and the repeated power cycles freed it. Very odd.

    Also, just as a note - you were helping me out before on my Jandy heater when it kept blowing the fuse feeding the control panel. I did get my pro involved then, and it took him many hours to find the cause. One of the high limit switches was bad, and even though it tested properly for continuity, it was causing the short (though I'm honestly still not certain why). But after replacing the switch, it stopped blowing the fuse and it's been working great since. I'd much rather replace a $10 high limit switch than a $600 control board.
    17' x 25' x 48" Laguna "Portable" Pool (~12,000 Gallons)
    Intex 8111 SWG, Pump, and Filter
    3 Fafco AGP 4 x 20 Solar Bear Panels
    Dirt Devil "Pool Boy" (Pool Rover Jr.)
    BBB and a SWG make my pool care really E-Z

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    Sep 2008
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    Silicon Valley, CA
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    1,637

    Re: Jandy Aqualink RS/PDA Not Moving Valves

    Yes Yes!
    Factory Warranty Station for:
    Jandy/Zodiac, Pentair, Sta-Rite, Raypak, Polaris,
    and Paramount pool cleaning systems.

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    Mar 2017
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    Irving, TX
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    Re: Jandy Aqualink RS/PDA Not Moving Valves

    I am resurrecting this thread because I had a similar problem-the Aqualink would not control the valve actuators or pool light, but controls for the pump, aerator, and water feature worked fine. I tried resetting multiple times with both the reset switch and also disconnecting all power including the 9V battery and letting it sit 5 minutes before powering back up. Nothing I did made the valve and light controls work, and I also had the valves sometimes move randomly when I restarted after a reset just like the OP. Then I saw this post, opened the panel up, flipped all the dip switches back and forth, restarted, and now it is controlling the valves and lights again as it should. I thought I was going to be buying a new PCB!

    The problems started after a heavy thunderstorm (I noticed the light not working a few days ago), so I am guessing the original problem may have been related to a power surge etc.
    18,000 gallon in-ground pool and hot tub with PebbleTec Finish
    Jandy Aqualink RS with PDA
    SWCG, DE Filter, and Doheny Discovery

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    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Riverside, CA
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    Re: Jandy Aqualink RS/PDA Not Moving Valves

    The RS-485 protocol used in pool equipment control is very rudimentary. They are susecible to all sorts of issues and connectivity drops. The Autelis in my sig quit controlling my Jandy after I had a new VS Pump installed. It turned out to be the wires needing to be removed and put back into the connections and all was fine. I was pulling hairs on that one. I've learned my lesson. ALWAYS suspect a bad connection is the problem and remove, replace and re-tighten all connectors at their lugs before looking any farther.

    Pool Automation Manufacturers should be ashamed of what they charge for these basic rudimentary controllers.

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