Diary of a swamp

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Krickett

Krickett

0
Jul 22, 2008
82
Arlington, Texas
I hope my topic is not improper since it is more of a diary of my steps of going from swamp to pool as opposed to a question. I was wanting a synopsis of what I did to correct my problem for posterity. However, I would love any comments if it seems I've gone astray or on the right path.

Background:
After trying to open for the season I noticed a couple small leaks, but mostly had to constantly backwash which made it difficult to balance and clean so I decided to upgrade. I had basically replaced all my equipment with new equipment/plumbing. Replaced SuperPump II with WhisperFlo dual speed and 48 sqft DE filter with S310S sand filter with 6 multiport valve. The only thing I didn't replace is the heater which I had replaced last year.

Including this link for reference:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/turn...rking-oasis-t4147.html?hilit=turn green swamp
 
Day 1 (7/5/09):
I completed the installation and started up. Noted leak at pumps output threaded connector :grrrr: . It seems I failed to tighten it enough so I caulk it with silicon caulk as well as all other connections for extra sealing.
 
Day 2 (7/6/09):
3:45pm - Started system up again after caulk set, realized that I missed a spot on the leaking connector :grrrr: :grrrr: . Leak is minor enough to ignore at the moment but at some point will probably need to replace connector. Tested PH = > 8.4. Added about 40oz. Muratic Acid in front of deep end return.
4:30pm - Tested CYA ~ 0. Filled sock with conditioner and placed it in the skimmer. Removed cover from pool.
7:30pm - Retested PH ~ 7.6, Added about 8 oz. Muratic Acid into spa.
9:00pm - Retested PH ~ 7.3 :-D . Tested Alkalinity = 50, Added 10 lbs Baking Soda into skimmer. Switched pump to low speed.
 
you don't mention the one ingredient to clear a swamp in here at all
Click to expand...
I assume you are referring to the chlorine level which is 0. No chlorine had been added since I closed the pool last October, nor had any real action been taken except for what I described. Until I get the CYA up to a decent level I don't think it would benefit anything. Hopefully the CYA will be up in a day or two.

did you have a swamp?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what your asking, but it seems like a swamp. Pool is a dark green and several tadpoles were sucked into the pump when I started it.
 
oh sorry, I thought this was a past tense thing (you cleared your pool already and wanted a log of what you already did to clear it up).
if your cya has dissolved it's good to go so start shocking. but don't test for cya for a week (it's in there it just may not show up on a test so don't waste reagent).
 
Yes this is an ongoing thing. I just started dissolving the stablizer yesterday. I updated my day 3 post to indicate that I added more stabilizer to the sock which should be about the 5lbs I need. Thanks for the CYA tip. I did not know not to test it for a week. Do you know why the CYA doesn't show up for a week?
 
something about it's not all dissolved I think. it may show up sooner, it may not, so it's recommended to wait a week so you don't waste reagent testing something that may not show up even though it's really there. the other issue is high cya is a big problem, so if you test the next day and see 0 cya, you add more, so on and so forth and end up with way too much cya. pool-school/ should have all the info you need to clear up your pool, but ask about any questions or problems you have. good luck, it will work if you stick with it.
 

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If I'm not sure about the CYA level how do I know the proper shock level. Even if I was to wait for a week I'm sure my level and that of the pool store would differ. My tests always show lower than the pool store when it comes to CYA. Which one do I go with and why does there always seem to be a difference? Has anyone else had this problem? Also, if removing water is the only way to lower CYA why does it seem to lower over the winter?
 
There are some kinds of bacteria that can break down CYA. They will only grow when the FC level is zero, and even then they are unpredictable. Since a pool should never have an FC level of zero, the bacteria should never get a chance to grow during the pool season. But they do have an opportunity when the pool is closed for the winter.

It would be cool if someone figured out a way to use these bacteria to break down CYA on command, but that hasn't happened yet.
 
Day 4 (7/8/09)
4:30 pm - Had water test at Leslie's
Chlorine - 0
PH - 7.6
TA - 100
Calcium - 325
CYA - 30

5:00 pm - Added 8 oz. of acid to lower PH to 7.5
Added 3 184oz jugs of bleach
Switched to high speed on pump, Filter still in recirculate mode.
Noticed another leak at a glued connection this time :grrrr: (My frustration grows). I'm sure I glued everything properly, but felt the glue may not be right. It was a fresh can of Medium PVC cement (blue). It seemed darker than what the pool guy used last year and seemed a bit thicker than the clear PVC cement I've used for my irrigation system. I used primer and followed the directions but still had a bad filling. Another can I bought looked the same, but it was from the same batch. Could the glue be bad?

5:45 pm - Tested Chlorine which is now a whopping 1. Added 3 more 184oz jugs of bleach. Heading to Costco for more bleach.
6:00 pm - Added another 12 oz of acid after reading Turning you swamp into an oasis and realizing that my PH should be on the low side.
6:15 pm - Tested Chlorine which has climbed to almost 2. Added 3 more 184oz jugs of bleach.
6:45 pm - Tested Chlorine which is about 2.5. Added 2.5 more 184oz jugs of bleach.
7:15 pm - Noticed a considerable difference in color of water, much lighter green. Water is above 5 so I will test with TF100 kit. I know it isn't up to shock level so I added 1/2 of remaining 184 oz jug. Waiting for wife to come home with more bleach to retest and adjust properly.
7:45 pm - Tested Chlorine which is about 5.5. Added 1.5 more 184oz jugs of bleach.
8:15 pm - Level=8.5, Added 1 jug.
8:45 pm - Level=11, Added 1/2 jug.
9:30 pm - Level=10.5, This is my last test for the night so I added 1 jug and switched pump to low speed.
Here are pics as requested.
 

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That sounds like the correct glue. When making a PVC connection you want make sure there is first primer, and then glue, all the way around both pieces, and then twist the joint as it comes together to be totally sure the glue spreads uniformly all around.
 
Thanks Jason. I did apply primer on both pieces as well as glue with a quarter turn when possible and I held it in place for about 15-30 sec. It's possible I didn't quite get that piece in place all the way or I stressed it putting another piece in. At least the glue situation is reassuring.
 
Note: I'm editting a post to reflect things I've done during that day, so for those interested you may want to review the current days post.

Question: The Turning your swamp into a sparkling oasis it says to test the chlorine level after a shock 30 minutes later. Is that sufficient time to properly distribute and is the test really valid at that point?
 
Here is what I know from my short time on this forum & clearing my own swamp in May

You need a LOT more bleach than 3 jugs at a time

You need to get your pool to shock level, which is FC12 if your CYA level is 30 according to the CYA/chlorine chart & you need to keep it at shock level until your FC level holds over night & you have CC level of .5 or less

pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

This can take 3 days & a bunch of bleach or much longer & a ton of bleach, it all depends how well you do at keeping your pool at shock level and/or how often you let the chlorine level drop to low levels

Letting your chlorine drop to 0 even for a short time can wipe out all of your efforts

Good luck, you can do it, I did & I have never owned a pool before this year

Bob
 

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