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Thread: Finally?

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2007


    OK, I shocked the pool on the evening of the 3rd since I didn't do it right the first time. It has just now come back down.

    Here are my current numbers (per my ColorQ kit):

    FC 3.72
    CC 0.4
    TC 4.22
    PH 7.4
    TA 79
    CH 40
    CYA 11
    Temp 78

    I think they are o.k. now. If I'm wrong, please let me know. I plan on taking a sample to Ace Hardware on Sat. to get another reading on the CYA. I am thinking the chlorine # could come down a bit more, but am unsure.

    I have reset my SWG and the timer. It's now set to run 5 hrs. in the afternoon and 6 hrs at night. The SWG is at 70%. We will see where this gets me.

    The Alk looks a bit low but is so close that I would hesitate to add anything.

    How do you get to zero on the CCs?
    5,100 gallons, fiberglass, cartridge filters, suction side vacuum.

    Swimming pools.....the difference between **** and an Arizona summer.

  2. Back To Top    #2
    First, since you have an SWG, you need to get your CYA up to about 80. Check the manual that came with it, if you can.

    You get rid of CC's by shocking the pool. (Instead of super-chlorinating with your SWG, add some bleach. It will prolong the life of your cell.) Get your pool up to 15 FC and keep it there with frequent testing and adding of bleach until the FC holds overnight or your CC's drop to 0.

    Your FC of 3.7 is ok, a tad high with your low CYA, but plenty safe for swimming.

    8000 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, 12" sand filter (don't have the specs on the pump), TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

  3. Back To Top    #3

    In the Industry
    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Sebring, Florida

    Re: Finally?

    First and foremost, "How does your water look?"
    all the below is based on your water looking clear and the way you want it.

    I would double-check your CYA reading. You should be somewhere in the 50+ range with the SWG. Your chlorine is being burned off rapidly by the Sun if your CYA is that low.

    Alk is a tiny bit low but I would disregard it until you confirm that CYA test and get more CYA in there if it's accurate. You can add some baking soda if you feel the need to raise the Alk.....I'd leave it.

    Same with the CC's. I'd leave it. Keep your Cl up and the CC's will probably go away or become less. If it's accurate, .4 CC is no big deal but you might test again in a few days.

    Nice Work..........Happy Swimming!
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    I do know that my test kit doesn't test well on the CYA. That's why I am planning on taking a sample to Ace Hardware first thing Saturday. The last time they tested it (and every time before that) they came up with 30. I have since added 4 lbs. of CYA.

    I shocked the pool (on the 2nd, not the 3rd) because I didn't do it right the first time. I didn't use enough bleach and only reach a FC of between 8 and 9, and was down to no chlorine within 24 hours. This time I used a bit more than the calculator said I should and the chlorine level was beyond my kit's measure capabilities (it will measure up to 10). It took until tonight (3 days) - with the SWG turned off - to come back down to these levels, and there's no new sediment on the bottom (which I believe was algae).

    My water is crystal clear and always has been, even when my pool lost all chlorine.

    Now I know I'll look the fool here, but when I posted this, I thought I was posting in my original "no chlorine" thread. Guess I hit the wrong button.

    At any rate, all advice is very much appreciated.

    As for the Alk. Am I right in thinking that the Alkalinity tends to go up in SWG pools? If so, and I'm that close, do I really need raise it. It's actually higher than it was before I shocked the pool.
    5,100 gallons, fiberglass, cartridge filters, suction side vacuum.

    Swimming pools.....the difference between **** and an Arizona summer.

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Atlanta, GA
    If your pool is exposed to the sun, and it took 3 days to come back down from a shock, I bet your CYA is higher than 10, or you super - super - super shocked it. With an SWG, you're actually going to want your ALK a bit lower, like right at 80. This will reduce your constant PH climb from using your SWG, especially since it is set to 70%. Mine is set to 15%, by the way. I know the correct number is between 10% and 25% for my pool. I'm just still fiddling with it and run times.

    .4 CC's is nothing. I get that all the time. Some days, it's there, others it's not. The SWG and the sun will burn off that level of CCs. The water in the cell will be super-duper chlorinated for a brief moment, which will help finish the process and clear the CCs.

    I find if my pool falls below 3ppm FC, it takes a nosedive quick. My CYA is 60. I like to operate between 3 and 5, though I often have it even higher, 5-8, just because the pool cover stays on for a day and keeps the sun out.
    Location: Atlanta, Georgia.
    Pool: 15,000 gallon 32'x18', 3'-6' deep in-ground gunite pool, Sta-Rite 3 125 GPM 2-filter cartrige, 1.5 HP Sta-Rite pump, solar heater, Goldline SWG, Jandy controls, opaque automatic CoverStar solar pool cover, 3 waterfalls (not from spa).
    Spa: 485 gallon in-ground square acrylic over fiberglass suspended over gunite Sunset brand spa, isolated system, natural gas heater, 2-speed (4hp/11hp) main pump, 3hp booster pump, chlorine sanitized.

    To my pool store owner, nothing is more important than my pool and my money.

    Richard's PoolEquations Spreadsheet

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