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Thread: Phosphate Remover

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    Phosphate Remover

    First off, I did not get sold snake oil by a pool store but was given a bottle of SeaKlear Phosphate Remover and Natural Clarifier from a buddy while helping him move over the weekend.

    I don't have an algae problem at the moment so would it be of any value to use it ? Should I get my Phosphates checked to make that determination?

    I plan to do my annual tear down and clean of my DE grids this weekend so now is the time if I am going to use it.

    Basically, since I have it , should I go ahead and use it ?
    In Ground Plaster Pool
    20000 Gallons
    Ecomatic SWCG
    1 HP WhisperFlow Pump
    Pentair FNS Plus 48 DE Filter

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    duraleigh's Avatar
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    Re: Phosphate Remover

    Basically, since I have it , should I go ahead and use it ?
    No. One of the tenants of BBB is not putting things in your pool you don't need. You don't need either of those.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Guest

    Re: Phosphate Remover

    With a DE filter the natural clarifier won't to that much for you.
    If you do have phosphates in the water the phosphate remover will cloud the water and make your filter pressure rise quickly until the water clears. It's worse than an algae bloom, IMHO.
    I would say no to using both.

    EDIT: Dave and I posted at the same time. Amazing how twisted minds think alike!

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    Re: Phosphate Remover

    cool.. that's why I ask the experts.. 8)
    In Ground Plaster Pool
    20000 Gallons
    Ecomatic SWCG
    1 HP WhisperFlow Pump
    Pentair FNS Plus 48 DE Filter

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    Re: Phosphate Remover

    The reason I used a phosphate remover was I had a problem with the SWG output and the tech guy recommended to test for phosphates that they will eat all the chlorine as it is made. So I went to the fish store , bought a phosphate test kit and found that I had a high level in the pool, probably from the diverse amount of people in the pool and detergent in their suits.
    We only have 2 pool stores I luckily found a bottle of remover the store was given as a sample, unusual that he had it at all.
    Followed the directions exactly, BIG WARNING on bottle DO NOT USE TOO MUCH! Did the trick for me. Probably the only person that will ever need that up here. I haven't needed it since but I test for phosphates when the chlorine levels don't come up like the should with the SWG
    AG 4000 gal.13' round Louisburg(cedar sides,top rails) Vinyl liner commercial Watsu pool
    indoor, 96 degree, AutoPilot digital salt chlorinator, Chemtrol 250 automated controler
    CarefreeClearwater ion generator, Mecomatic acid feed, Whisperflo WFE-4 1 h.p. pump
    Pentair Master temp 250 HD gas heater, Pentair CC200 filter

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Phosphate Remover

    Phosphates are algae food, but if you maintain proper FC levels, high levels of phosphates are irrelevant.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Join Date
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    San Rafael, CA USA
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    Re: Phosphate Remover

    Quote Originally Posted by idowatsu
    The reason I used a phosphate remover was I had a problem with the SWG output and the tech guy recommended to test for phosphates that they will eat all the chlorine as it is made.
    This is complete baloney. Phosphates do not consume chlorine. As noted, phosphates are one of the essential nutrients for algae (nitrates being another, as well as carbon dioxide and sunlight) so if you aren't maintaining an appropriate Free Chlorine (FC) level relative to the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level, then algae can grow faster than chlorine can kill it. Initially, this looks like unusual chlorine demand because the algae is not yet visible (i.e. water is not yet dull or cloudy).

    The standard recommendation by SWG manufacturers of 1-3 ppm FC with 60-80 ppm CYA is NOT sufficient to prevent algae growth under conditions when algae can grow quickly, including when phosphates and other nutrients are high enough. So often people find their SWG can't output fast enough to kill algae and then blame phosphates. A shock with chlorinating liquid or bleach and then maintaining at least 4 ppm FC would be all that is needed. In my non-SWG pool, I have 2000-3000 ppb phosphates and yet am able to keep algae from growing by maintaining an appropriate FC relative to CYA. Some others on this forum have even higher phosphate levels.

    Phosphate removers can be seen in the same way as algaecides; an extra product at extra cost that can prevent algae growth, but is not necessary if one maintains an appropriate chlorine level.

    Richard
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

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    Guest

    Re: Phosphate Remover

    Quote Originally Posted by idowatsu
    The reason I used a phosphate remover was I had a problem with the SWG output and the tech guy recommended to test for phosphates that they will eat all the chlorine as it is made.
    This is not true. Phosphates do NOT "eat" chlorine. You had a nascent algae bloom that was consuming your chlorine and you could have solved the problem easier and cheaper by shocking with bleach and then raising your cell output a bit to prevent it from happening again. This is assuming your CYA was not too low, which is often a contributing factor.

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