My numbers with the new test kit

[rodrigo]

The new kit arrived from TF Test Kits, and the results are in:
FC: 5 ppm
CC: 1 ppm
TC: 6 ppm
pH: 7.5
T/A: 160
CH: 190
CYA: 80

I'm running an Aqua-Rite SWG in a 10K gallon fiberglass pool. The pool is always covered on weekdays, unless the kids get in, and generally open all day on weekends. I'm also recovering from a major algae bloom last week. The water is nearly cleared up... but not quite. It's still a liiiiiiittle bit cloudy white.

I read the article on this site about SWG levels, and have considering (for now) to target FC around 6, pH of 7.5, T/A of 80, CH of 250, and holding CYA at 80. I put these targets in the pool calculator, which calls for aeration to lower the T/A, 21 oz of bleach to raise the FC, and 5 1/2 pounds of calcium chloride. So, I'm thinking I follow the aeration procedures first, and then adding the calcium chloride (assuming I can find de-icer at this time fo year!).

I have a few questions:
1) should I add the bleach to reach my target FC, even though I'm running the SWG? What is the theory on shocking with a SWG?
2) since I'm fighting the algae bloom, I'm running the system 24/7, with the SWG running 33% -- which is WAY more than I've had to run it in the past to maintain decent FC. I'd like to get back to running it 10 - 12 hours soon...
3) My SWG and salt test strips do not agree at all on how much salt is in my water. The strips show a concentration of almost 3500 ppm, while the reading on the SWG says 2900. It shut down on me last week (leading to the algae bloom, I believe), when it read the concentration at 2700 ppm. Over the last week, I've seen the SWG readout go as low as 2800, and as high as 3100. Water temp has been 81 - 85 degrees all week.

Also, I had dangerously low pH last week... which lead me to add two boxes of borax. I'm feeling better about things, and am anxious to get back to crystal clear! Thanks for any advice.

 

[Butterfly]

The new kit arrived from TF Test Kits, and the results are in:
FC: 5 ppm
CC: 1 ppm
TC: 6 ppm
pH: 7.5
T/A: 160
CH: 190
CYA: 80

I'm running an Aqua-Rite SWG in a 10K gallon fiberglass pool. The pool is always covered on weekdays, unless the kids get in, and generally open all day on weekends. I'm also recovering from a major algae bloom last week. The water is nearly cleared up... but not quite. It's still a liiiiiiittle bit cloudy white.
You have CC of 1ppm and you are not done shocking your pool.

I read the article on this site about SWG levels, and have considering (for now) to target FC around 6, pH of 7.5, T/A of 80, CH of 250, and holding CYA at 80. I put these targets in the pool calculator, which calls for aeration to lower the T/A, 21 oz of bleach to raise the FC, and 5 1/2 pounds of calcium chloride. So, I'm thinking I follow the aeration procedures first, and then adding the calcium chloride (assuming I can find de-icer at this time fo year!).
I think you are confused about how to lower TA. Acid lowers TA & pH & aeration raises pH. Please re-read the article in Pool School. However, I suggest you do not adjust TA or CH until you finish shocking your pool!

I have a few questions:
1) should I add the bleach to reach my target FC, even though I'm running the SWG? What is the theory on shocking with a SWG?
Read the article in Pool School for "How to Shock" your pool. We use bleach/liquid chlorine to raise the FC fast. You keep your SWG on to help maintain shock level. However, during the 'overnight test', the SWG must be off. This info is in the article in Pool School.
2) since I'm fighting the algae bloom, I'm running the system 24/7, with the SWG running 33% -- which is WAY more than I've had to run it in the past to maintain decent FC. I'd like to get back to running it 10 - 12 hours soon...
Finish shocking your pool first.
3) My SWG and salt test strips do not agree at all on how much salt is in my water. The strips show a concentration of almost 3500 ppm, while the reading on the SWG says 2900. It shut down on me last week (leading to the algae bloom, I believe), when it read the concentration at 2700 ppm. Over the last week, I've seen the SWG readout go as low as 2800, and as high as 3100. Water temp has been 81 - 85 degrees all week.

Also, I had dangerously low pH last week... which lead me to add two boxes of borax. I'm feeling better about things, and am anxious to get back to crystal clear! Thanks for any advice.

If you have questions after reading the articles, please post them back here.

Someone will be around to help. We want you to have crystal clear water, too!

Welcome to the forum

 

[dmanb2b]

I second butterfly's comments...your swg is playing catch-up with the 1ppm of CC...your not done shocking...use bleach to raise your FC to shock level and keep it there until you have an FC loss of 1ppm or less overnight.

Some POP (Pool owner patience) and you'll be swimming in no time

 

[rodrigo]

I'm getting a little discouraged...

I used the pool calculator to determine my shock level and the amount of 6% chlorine needed to get there. Added it around 5:00 pm Wednesday, and ended up right on 21ppm FC, 1ppm CC. I checked twice more that evening before bed, and the numbers held steady. Yesterday, Thursday, the numbers held over the course of the day, until around 6:30 pm, when FC fell to the 19 - 20 ppm range, CC still at 1ppm. I added another 18 oz of chorline to get back to 21ppm FC.

I decided to run the overnight loss test, last night, and was disappointed to see a 2ppm loss, with CC still holding at 1ppm. I'm still getting the hang of the TF-100, so I checked CYA again -- and this time got a reading of 65ppm, which is below where I want to be with my SWG anyway, so I used a couple of pouches of dichlor to get back up to shock level. Not ideal, I know, but I was out of bleach, and didn't feel like running to Menard's before breakfast.

I know I simply need to exercise some POP. I was hoping I'd get the CC cleaned up before this weekend -- we have a lot of family coming to town.

Today's round of questions:
- Should it really take two days of shock level FC to clear up a 1ppm CC?
- If three 96oz jugs of 6% bleach raise my FC 15ppm at a given CYA, is it safe to assume that one jug will raise me 5ppm? 19.2 oz will raise me 1ppm?
- What is the shelf life of the reagents in the TF100? I am blowing through my FAS/DPD drops at an alarming rate (all these tests of 20+ ppm = a LOT of drops), and with a $15 minimum order, wonder if I should order two more bottles right away.

Thanks much for your consideration!

 

[reebok]

other stuff aside, what I did with the chlorine reagents (I go through quickly also) was add some refills to my parts order for pump replacement parts at intheswim.com. I actually ended up getting one of the reagents free because it put me over $50 for the order which got me $10 off the entire order. I also got 10% off the order total. so if you have some parts or something else to order, try to tack on some reagent and see if you can get a deal.

 

[Butterfly]

I'm getting a little discouraged...

I used the pool calculator to determine my shock level and the amount of 6% chlorine needed to get there. Added it around 5:00 pm Wednesday, and ended up right on 21ppm FC, 1ppm CC. I checked twice more that evening before bed, and the numbers held steady. Yesterday, Thursday, the numbers held over the course of the day, until around 6:30 pm, when FC fell to the 19 - 20 ppm range, CC still at 1ppm. I added another 18 oz of chorline to get back to 21ppm FC.

I decided to run the overnight loss test, last night, and was disappointed to see a 2ppm loss, with CC still holding at 1ppm. I'm still getting the hang of the TF-100, so I checked CYA again -- and this time got a reading of 65ppm, which is below where I want to be with my SWG anyway, so I used a couple of pouches of dichlor to get back up to shock level. Not ideal, I know, but I was out of bleach, and didn't feel like running to Menard's before breakfast.

I know I simply need to exercise some POP. I was hoping I'd get the CC cleaned up before this weekend -- we have a lot of family coming to town.

Today's round of questions:
- Should it really take two days of shock level FC to clear up a 1ppm CC?
Depends. I suggest you raise your shock level to about 28. See the Chlorine/CYA Chart in my sig.
- If three 96oz jugs of 6% bleach raise my FC 15ppm at a given CYA, is it safe to assume that one jug will raise me 5ppm? 19.2 oz will raise me 1ppm?
Yes. Also, rule of thumb, one gallon of 6% bleach in 10,000 gal. pool will raise the FC to appx. 6. You can also use the Pool Calculator to determine "Effects of Adding Chems..." section near the bottom.
- What is the shelf life of the reagents in the TF100? I am blowing through my FAS/DPD drops at an alarming rate (all these tests of 20+ ppm = a LOT of drops), and with a $15 minimum order, wonder if I should order two more bottles right away.Properly stored, two years easy. But, if you're getting low, I'd go ahead and order.

Thanks much for your consideration!

ETA: Make sure you leave the cover off during the day to allow the sun to burn off CC's.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Ditto what Joyce said.

Keep the cover off for a few days.

 

[rodrigo]

The cover! DUH!

My pool is covered virtually all the time on weekdays, unless the kids get in during the day. It's open as we speak, as the barracuda is doing its thing down there. It's sunny now, with forecast for hot temps & scattered storms today. I'll close it up if it starts to rain, but I should be able to keep it open most of the day.

If you can get a sunburn on a cloudy day, can the sun still burn off chlorine?

After the dichlor pouches, my FC is at 28ppm, so I luckily ended up where I was supposed to be.

 

[JasonLion]

Yes, even on cloudy days you lose chlorine to sunlight, though not as much as on a sunny day.