Algae eradication question.

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Diver Down

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Jun 16, 2009
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Hey everyone,


I am a TFP newbie with a question concerning green algae and how to kill it.

Here is my question/hypothesis.

What if I just drain my pool? if this organism needs water or moisture to survive, ( I really don't know ) just stop feeding it. If I drain the pool, it will dry up and cease to exist. The dry algae can be then be brushed, scraped, vacuumed or whatever method is prescribed, effectively removing it from both pool and the pool filtering system, you just refill and maintain.

Will this work?

What I do know. Not good for any pool this size to be empty for any length of time.

Stats: Built-in pool. Holds 22,000 gallons. Filter system and pool sweep in place. Water is from well. Algae problem is minimal. Water is always clear.

Please let me know what you think.

If I missed something that is common knowledge to all of you, please cut me a little slack I'm still a rookie.
 
No problem, we were all rookies once.

A complete drain is not always safe nor it is an option for many.

If you are confident of your water table, and your pool's ability to withstand draining, and your certain your well can handle the refill, then it's a personal decision.

If your water is mostly clear, just a bit of algae, then why not just tackle it by shocking? Chlorine will kill the algae. You'll still need chlorine after you drain/refill. Plus by draining and refilling you'll have to rebalance all your other numbers, like PH/TA, calcium, CYA and what if the fill water has metals, which requires sequesterants....

If you post a full set of test results we may advise differently, but 22,000 gallons is a lot of water, and it might not take that much bleach to cure your issues, who knows.

Do you have a test kit?
 
Welcome to the forum ! :wave:

You can start by reading Pool School. There is a lot of information about getting rid of algae in your pool.

There are all kinds of scenarios could happen if you drain your pool depending on the type. I suggest reading up in the article above and tackle your algae that way.
 
Welcome to TFP :wave:
You don't drain the pool in order to kill agae, just as you don't cut out an arm if you get a nasty scratch on it.
You kill it by chlorinating agents such as bleach.
Do the following ASAP:
Read Pool School. Read the the post "Turning your green swamp..." - the third stickie in this forum. Buy one of the test kits discussed in the Pool School.
Buy a few big bottles of Walmart Ultra Bleach.
 
Drying out and scrubbing the pool doesn't guarantee the algae will be gone, or won't come back. Spores obviously survive outside water, otherwise where would the algae in your pool come from? Best to just kill it with chlorine.
--paulr
 
There will be algae spores on the pool surfaces, on the pool equipment like brushes, in the piping. As soon as conditions are right, it will grow again.

You can clean it out but it will return from somewhere. You can try to starve it but organics from any source, falling leaves or from swimmers in the pool provide food. Better to create conditions in the pool that will not allow it to grow.

It is really pretty easy to keep the chlorine level up, once you understand the key role that CYA plays in determining what level is required.

It still amazes me that the pool test strips I had would tell me that free chlorine was OK between 1 and 3 ppm and that CYA was Ok between 30 and 100 and high between 150 and 300. Now I know that for *my* pool, free chlorine is low if it is under 3 ppm and my upper range is 7 ppm. No wonder that I always had a little algae here and there when I was using those strips.
 
Just wanted to tell you guys thanks for the pointing me in the right direction. I guess you could say today I got "pool schooled." The "pool school" information was a great suggestion. The further I research this area, the more I realize just how lucky I have been.

The algae is the first issue with this pool in over forty years. I guess it could be considered a classic. Anyways, right now the algae is only in a few places and I want to eradicate it. I will follow your directions and see what happens.

One thing I do need is the proper test set. Which one do I want?

As far as those issues concerning the water table, pool integrity, and the ability of the pump to produce, its all good. Do it every year. Why ? My logic was it would somehow be easier to maintain that way. What can I say. It's always worked. Shows what little I knew, until today.

Thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction, its appreciated.


Best regards,


Mark
 
Diver Down said:
One thing I do need is the proper test set. Which one do I want?
Click to expand...

Well.... I have the TF-100. It is big, it has lots of stuff to do lots of tests and the folks here in this forum are really familliar with it so if you have questions you get quick answers. Ships fast and has more reagents for the same price as other kits.

I like the box it comes in. You can move the compartment walls in the box to rearrange it to suit you. I have mine all arranged in the box so that I start in one corner and go from test to test in order. Sometimes I just do Chlorine. Sometimes I do more, to see if the muratic acid has changed the TA values yet or to monitor the CH values since I use either liquid chlorine or Cal-hypo for chlorine additions.
 

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You want to be able to test CYA, which you only find in the bigger kits.
Having the FAS-DPD chlorine test is very useful when you have to shock, because it can handle very high FC/TC levels. It's also very easy to read, some of us have real trouble with the color-matching OTO (yellow drops) and DPD (red drops) tests.
The Taylor K-2006 (also sold by Leslie's as the FAS-DPD Service Kit) and TF100 are the only kits that have everything in one package. I believe there's also a Walmart 6-way kit that includes the CYA test, which you'd need to supplement with the FAS-DPD bought separately; this one is probably the HTH 6-way kit. There's no Walmart particularly near me so I haven't had a chance to look at it myself.
--paulr
 
I'd save the $20 on the wal-mart HTH 6 way. It only has the OTO chlorine test and enough solution to test CYA 2-3 times.

The TF-100 is the best bang for the buck. Either way, your best bet is to order the TF100 or the K2006 online, because most stores don't carry them in stock and will try to push a substitute, like the k2005 which you don't want because it only tests with the DPD up to a FC of 5. Not good enough. :rant:

I have the TF100 too and I can't tell you how much money it has saved me. So initially I balked at spending $70 on a test kit, but I have saved that much 5 times over by doing my own testing and not being pressured to buy unneccessary pool store chems. :goodjob:
 
Thanks again for your suggestions concerning the test kit. Looks like I will give the Taylor K-2006 or the TF100 a whirl, which ever one I happen to see first tomorrow. Although these may not be the least expensive kits available, (and I'm always hip to saving a little dough) it does look like they are the most complete.

Although price is always a factor, some things you are just going to need. I just figure that once you have made the investment/commitment to becoming a pool owner, the price of the kit should be a no brainer. You have already decided to make the investment in the pool, cut coroners now, pay later. Essentially, don't go out to dinner if you can't afford to tip. Protect your investment.

I have been very fortunate. The algae problem was not severe by any means, a few small spots, ( the size of a half dollar ) on my steps. I want it to go away. What little I do remember about algae is that it spreads. I did a little research and discovered this site, its readers and a wealth of knowledge.

Obviously, I am no expert in pool care,......... yet. I'm a professional sound engineer. Acoustic prediction, sound system optimization, anything with knobs and faders on it, I'm right at home. When it comes to pool care you, your readers, certainly know your *%$#.

Thanks for all your help. Within the next few days I will be purchasing the kit and will be posting some of my first tests as advised, for your review.
 
Glad to help.

As I stated above - very rarely do pool stores have the correct Taylor kit instore/stock. You are better off ordering online. The TF100 is not sold instores, Leslies has a rebranded K-2006 but not all Leslie's carry it, many times they will tell you all you need is the K-2005 and that is not correct.

I'd recommend you just order your kit online. :goodjob:
 
I got the TF100 shipped to me today. Absolute Fabulous kit! Just as anonapersona replied, I did the same as far as arrangement. Actually it came to me packaged that way pretty close. It is so nice being able to trust the numbers with the kit & the instructions are very clear & concise. I can now figure how much the next few days I'm going to need of chlorine, etc, instead of making a panick run to pick it up at any price. I'm not familiar with Leslies, as we don't have them here in Iowa, but you can't go wrong with the TF100. Just my honest opinion..
 
I try not to comment too much about the kit on the forum but I have to acknowledge those nice words....Thank you :lol:

(PM me......I can't remember if we agreed on $30 cash or $40 cash :shock: :shock: )
 
As an informational point.

Yes algae needs moisture, but it also needs other food, like nitrates.
High phosphates and high nitrates in water fertilizes algae and other water plants.
Dry algae can be dormant. To get live algae, just add water.
Algae, a plant, needs light. But, no light doesn't necessarily kill the algae.
Remember Mr. Goldbloom's character in Jurassic Park. Life has a way of surviving and continuing.

I used to keep a slight algae bloom going in my aquarium to help with the nitrogen cycle since I didn't want to bother with any real plants. Then we moved from Chicago to NC during the winter and I started loosing fish for one reason or another, and having acquired a pool with the move, decided to drop keeping fish in favor of the large cement pond in the back yard. My wife loves it and the sister-in-law is jealous (her's is a smaller above ground pool that consumes their whole backyard in Chicago, which isn't hard to do (standard lot = 25' x 125')
 
Chasville said:
having acquired a pool with the move, decided to drop keeping fish in favor of the large cement pond in the back yard.
Click to expand...

My story as well: with all that water in the back yard, who needs to clean a fish tank? I did planted fish tanks, so it is interesting to be on the other end of the spectrum, trying to NOT grow plants in water.
 

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