Question about covering pool

[mrjhokie]

This is my first post here although I've been reading these forums for a while when I have questions and usually find a lot of solutions to my pool issues. So, hello all. I've had my pool for 8 years, getting ready to close and thinking about not covering the pool this year when I close. I still plan to use winterizing chemicals and drop the water level like always, just not cover. The debris from trees is minimal once the leaves have fallen, and I'm wondering if covering is worth the effort and drawbacks. The drawbacks of using the cover are (1) its a safety cover and its heavy and a hassle to get on and off and clean (2) I have a couple of dogs that want to run on top of it, leaving their muddy foot prints to wash through the mesh screen and into the pool when it rains, causing a lot of dirt build up in the bottom of the pool that I have to vacuum out manually when I open in the spring.

For reference, my winterizing process after cleaning and balancing is
(1) lower the level (2) put in winterizing chemicals (3) circulate the water about 2 days to mix the chemicals (4) drain pump and filter, and spray pump protector in pump, install freeze plugs in the skimmers. I've never blown out lines - I live in Eastern North Carolina and the winters are mild with only occasional hard freezes. It almost never snows and when it does, just a couple of short lived inches.

So I would still do all that, but just leaving the cover off would save a lot of the work. I thought I could just throw a nice light leaf net over it instead. My question is - is there anything I'm missing about an advantage to using this cover? I can't think of any, but would like to know what others think (or do) and would appreciate thoughts.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Other than safety (no one falling in unexpectedly...) you don't *have to* cover your pool. It just means you'll need or want to scoop debris out of it during the winter so it isn't unsightly. I would still maintain some testing and monitor the FC. Do you have a way to pump out or siphon out excess rain water that may build up?

In fact.. really... do you even *have to close*?? If winters there are mild enough you might decide not to bother and any time a freeze risk occurs just keep the pump running. I don't close my pool, and on the few times we get a freeze warning we run the pump all night and Skippy covers the pool equipment with heavy moving blankets and a tarp. He also hangs an auto light under the tarp.

 

[mrjhokie]

Other than safety (no one falling in unexpectedly...) you don't *have to* cover your pool. It just means you'll need or want to scoop debris out of it during the winter so it isn't unsightly. I would still maintain some testing and monitor the FC. Do you have a way to pump out or siphon out excess rain water that may build up?

In fact.. really... do you even *have to close*?? If winters there are mild enough you might decide not to bother and any time a freeze risk occurs just keep the pump running. I don't close my pool, and on the few times we get a freeze warning we run the pump all night and Skippy covers the pool equipment with heavy moving blankets and a tarp. He also hangs an auto light under the tarp.

Thanks for your reply. It sounds like the debris control would be the biggest issue.

With respect to FC monitoring, I've never done any water testing between the time I add the winterizing kit and spring opening. There's usually no FC reading when I first take the cover off in the spring so I have to do the appropriate turbo shock. I don't know if this is bad or good - I haven't been circulating the water at all over the winter. We usually do get a lot of rain during the winter so I have to watch the level so it doesn't reach the coping. So when necessary I do remove the freeze plugs from the skimmer and use the pump to pump off the top rain water through the skimmers out the waste line - trying as best I can to preserve my winterizing chemicals. Then re-install freeze plugs and drain the pump and add more pump protector again. But by Spring I still always have to add a lot of everything. Salt level usually is no higher than 1200-1500 PPM at that point so I have to add a lot of salt too. In short, Spring is a good week of work to get the pool cleaned and balanced again.

Having to close (?) is a great question. Since I've never done that I'm not really sure. In January and February its common to see temps in the mid 20's to lower 40's. But it rarely stays under 32 degrees for very long stretches of time. 32+ to upper 40's is probably the most norm. Last year was one of those rare years where we saw an extended freeze where it went down to a low in the low teens and didn't get out of the 20's for over a week. That's my concern - I'm not sure at what point its considered to get too cold to stay open.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Chlorine needs in cold weather are so low its no trouble just keeping a small amount in.

You draining procedure sounds cumbersome. Could you just use a small sump pump to drain the excess water, or even just a garden hose to siphon it off (assuming you have a low area in the yard to start the siphon)?

We don't really suggest folks buy "winterizing kits" as they're mostly unnecessary ingredients.... more a marketing ploy, y'know?

 

[mrjhokie]

Chlorine needs in cold weather are so low its no trouble just keeping a small amount in.

You draining procedure sounds cumbersome. Could you just use a small sump pump to drain the excess water, or even just a garden hose to siphon it off (assuming you have a low area in the yard to start the siphon)?

We don't really suggest folks buy "winterizing kits" as they're mostly unnecessary ingredients.... more a marketing ploy, y'know?

I've thought about that, and it is a little cumbersome but my regular pump is a lot faster for pumping off a foot of water at a time. I think I pumped off close to 30" of water between October and March last year.

I've not heard that about winterizing kits being a marketing ploy. I've been using them since my first closing (as recommended by the pool store who built the pool). What would I use for closing instead of the kit? Just balance the water as normal and then lower the level? Thanks again.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

I've not heard that about winterizing kits being a marketing ploy. I've been using them since my first closing (as recommended by the pool store who built the pool). What would I use for closing instead of the kit? Just balance the water as normal and then lower the level? Thanks again.

Those kits are full of nothing but chemicals we don't recommend at any time such as clarifyers, phos-free, dichlor/trichlor and the like. Leslie's even throws in yet another water test bottle and some "Guess-Strips". Save your cash.

IF you feel a need for an algaecide we suggest only using Polyquat 60. Many don't use it at closing. And if you need antifreeze in your lines to make sure it is pool/RV antifreeze and *not* automotive. Otherwise just using liquid chlorine and bringing your FC level up to SLAM level is enough and will save you a bundle.

Yippee

 

[mrjhokie]

Those kits are full of nothing but chemicals we don't recommend at any time such as clarifyers, phos-free, dichlor/trichlor and the like. Leslie's even throws in yet another water test bottle and some "Guess-Strips". Save your cash.

IF you feel a need for an algaecide we suggest only using Polyquat 60. Many don't use it at closing. And if you need antifreeze in your lines to make sure it is pool/RV antifreeze and *not* automotive. Otherwise just using liquid chlorine and bringing your FC level up to SLAM level is enough and will save you a bundle.

Yippee

Yes, I had heard to avoid the phosphate removers and other such items were a scam. I honestly didn't know what was in the winterizing kits though - I thought it was anti-freeze. Can you recommend a brand of anti-freeze, how to apply and how much to use, and is it recommended for vinyl liner pools? This year I'll probably use a combination of that with the algaecide and then shut down the system until spring. I kind of like not having to worry about running the pump for a few months. As far as the FC my salt generator provides my chlorine and keeps my FC near constant 3.5 ppm each time I check it. Thanks for the info.

 

[pooldv]

Antifreeze is added to the plumbing lines after blowing them out. More here about that, Pool School - Closing an In Ground Pool

Any brand RV/marine Antifreeze at the auto parts store or Lowes is fine. It is the pink stuff.