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Thread: Closing pool - water level and light

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    Closing pool - water level and light

    I have a light in my pool. It is in the deep end and the bottom of the light is about 4 inches below my lowest return. Should I drain water to below the light or just drain below my lowest return and keep half the light in the water? Should I do something else altogether?


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    Re: Closing pool - water level and light

    I would do neither. I lower the water level about 3 inches below the skimmer, which is solely for the purpose of closing but then the level comes right back up with some rain / snow / ice during the off season and so have to pump it down again until the pool finally freezes. I know of some people that lower the level down below the returns to drain the lines, then plug them, then refill to some extent. Even with doing that, I would think you really don't know for certain if you have a tight seal. I'd rather trust to blowing the lines out, plugging them while the air is on, and seeing if there are then no (or very few) bubbles that continue to come out with the air pressure still on. As for the light, my take on that is..if we have that hard a winter that the pool freezes down to where my light is..probably my plumbing lines in the garage will crack and who knows what else. I've never removed my light either. Just my two cents on the issues you raise. Good luck whichever way you do it! I assume you have an air compressor or shop vac that you use to blow out the lines?
    12,000 gallon gunite, original construction 1989, renovation 2014 using quartz plaster finish

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    Re: Closing pool - water level and light

    I'm going to rent something to blow the lines out.


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    Re: Closing pool - water level and light

    I'm going to rent something to blow the lines out.
    Depending on the rental cost and if you plan on closing your pool each year, you may want to consider the Cyclone. Best blower for pools (IMHO).
    14,700 gallons IG Pool Vinyl Liner - Octal Circulation System
    Hayward Pro-Series 350 LB. Sand Filter Model # S270T - 2" Plumping
    Frog Mineralizer System (EMPTY) - Hayward Super Pump 2 HP Model # k48m2n111
    Pool Company tests water (NO LONGER) TF-100 TEST KIT
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    Re: Closing pool - water level and light

    I have a pool company close my pool and they take the light out of the nitch and hang by a string right below the pool cover. They usually drain about two feet of water out of the pool when they close. We have gunite so if you have a liner I'm not sure if this may or may not work.
    Inground 22k gallon gunite 15x31 main pool, 15x7 wading pool/sunning deck, hot tub/with overflow (9' octagon with limestone top) & slide NSWG, Aqua Blue Pebble Sheen
    Filter dual cartridge Sta-rite 450sq/ft, TF-100 Test Kit
    Heater Raypak 2100 400k btu cupro-nickel exchanger
    Auto pool cover, Polaris 280 auto pool cleaner, Jandy AqualinkRS8 Remote Control System

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    Re: Closing pool - water level and light

    I can't afford a cyclone this year.

    Would a regular air compressor work? It looks like the previous owners left a cover for the pump that has a fitting for an air compressor on it.


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    Re: Closing pool - water level and light

    Kevin:

    This question comes up a lot. I feel that there are several factors that play into whether or not a compressor will be efficient enough to accomplish the task of blowing out all the lines properly. It is not pressure that is needed, but more volume.

    ...The distance and size of your plumbing to each return, skimmer and main drain are items to consider.

    ... Lowering water below the skimmer and returns make a huge difference in blowing out these areas. If water is lowered, one can literally vacuum most of the water out of the lines first and then blow the remaining water out.

    ... Having the appropriate shut off valves in where one can isolate each section is important as well.

    ... Where you are blowing the air from and if the elevation of the area is higher or lower than return jets and skimmers.

    Below, please find a thread (Post # 10) which describes the experience a member has had with a pancake compressor.

    Closing: blosing out lines, water level and then some

    From speaking with the manufacturer, the Cyclone produces about 5 psi, and with the resistance of the water, the return jets are at about 90 cfm and main drain about 30 cfm. Under no pressure, the unit produces 130 cfm. The bubbling effect of the main is real powerful.

    I would assume that an air compressor that can produce 10 cfm may be sufficient to move the water below the frost line. There is also a difference of the hose involved. The 1.5" hose creates a lot more air than your standard air compressor hose.

    Please take a look at post # 15 and this describes the amount of CFM needed and for what. If one can isolate each area when closing, the task is accomplished a lot easier. This also assumes 2" plumbing, which creates less resistance. Some pools have 1"-1.5", which may require more cfm. The information is from another member on the forum, but I can not recall who wrote the post as it was copied.

    Problem blowing out pool lines
    14,700 gallons IG Pool Vinyl Liner - Octal Circulation System
    Hayward Pro-Series 350 LB. Sand Filter Model # S270T - 2" Plumping
    Frog Mineralizer System (EMPTY) - Hayward Super Pump 2 HP Model # k48m2n111
    Pool Company tests water (NO LONGER) TF-100 TEST KIT
    Date of Build is 11-2013

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    Re: Closing pool - water level and light

    Anyone ever try and use a leaf blower for cfm?

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    Re: Closing pool - water level and light

    I do not believe a leaf blower would produce enough volume.
    14,700 gallons IG Pool Vinyl Liner - Octal Circulation System
    Hayward Pro-Series 350 LB. Sand Filter Model # S270T - 2" Plumping
    Frog Mineralizer System (EMPTY) - Hayward Super Pump 2 HP Model # k48m2n111
    Pool Company tests water (NO LONGER) TF-100 TEST KIT
    Date of Build is 11-2013

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