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Thread: Bottom return line winterizing

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    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Newington, Connecticut
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    Bottom return line winterizing

    Had my pool closed by the pool company included in the Build last year. I watched them blow out the main bottom return and plug the lines at the pump area. I'm guessing that this line does not get antifreeze installed. Maybe the rubber plug holds back the water from the pool. Any thoughts?
    Last edited by Andrew Howard; 09-20-2016 at 09:45 PM. Reason: Missed a word
    16'x34' Kidney 17000 Gallon IG Vinyl liner. Pentair IntelliXF vs pump, Sta-Rite System 3 DE filter. Liquidator, TF-100 Test kit w/ speed stir. Aqua Comfort heat pump, Dolphin Apollo robot, clear solar cover, stamped concrete deck.

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    Catanzaro's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    Re: Bottom return line winterizing

    Andrew:


    Are you having the pool company close your pool this year or are you asking for assistance in closing your own pool?


    If you are closing your own pool, you will need a compressor or blower that has enough volume to move water out of the returns, skimmers and especially the main drain (this is were most blowers fails). If so, please post some pictures of your equipment (front, top, sides, and back), and describe the pool (How many skimmers, returns and main drain). We will be glad to help you in closing your own pool. Also, do you own an air compressor? Thanks!
    14,700 gallons IG Pool Vinyl Liner - Octal Circulation System
    Hayward Pro-Series 350 LB. Sand Filter Model # S270T - 2" Plumping
    Frog Mineralizer System (EMPTY) - Hayward Super Pump 2 HP Model # k48m2n111
    Pool Company tests water (NO LONGER) TF-100 TEST KIT
    Date of Build is 11-2013

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    Newington, Connecticut
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    Re: Bottom return line winterizing

    yes I will be closing my own pool. I've got the gist of the closing. I used to winterize in ground sprinkler systems. My concern was blowing the air out of the pool bottom return. I'm pretty sure the company blew it out then plugged the filter end of the piping. Just don't see how you can put antifreeze in the line or if it is necessary for this line.
    So I have a bottom return and one skimmer and four eyeball returns. Not good with the pictures sorry. The skimmer and bottom tie together at a valve prior to connecting to the pump. The returns are a three pipe system running back to pool. Planning on a gallon of antifreeze for each line. Thanks for the info much appreciated.
    16'x34' Kidney 17000 Gallon IG Vinyl liner. Pentair IntelliXF vs pump, Sta-Rite System 3 DE filter. Liquidator, TF-100 Test kit w/ speed stir. Aqua Comfort heat pump, Dolphin Apollo robot, clear solar cover, stamped concrete deck.

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    Catanzaro's Avatar
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    Re: Bottom return line winterizing

    If you have a shut off valve for the main drain, you can close it after the water bubbles at the surface. If you want to add an extra plug inside the pump housing as extra protection, that is also a good idea.

    Andrew:

    Where is Newington? Personally, I do not see the need for Anti-Freeze. If you blow out the lines properly and remove the water, then Anti-Freeze is not necessary. You could pour the liquid in the piping for blowing out the lines and the some of the solution will stay in there. One gallon of Anti-Freeze in each line is probably a lot. I believe it was $30 per gallon.
    14,700 gallons IG Pool Vinyl Liner - Octal Circulation System
    Hayward Pro-Series 350 LB. Sand Filter Model # S270T - 2" Plumping
    Frog Mineralizer System (EMPTY) - Hayward Super Pump 2 HP Model # k48m2n111
    Pool Company tests water (NO LONGER) TF-100 TEST KIT
    Date of Build is 11-2013

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    Berks County, PA
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    Re: Bottom return line winterizing

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Howard View Post
    Had my pool closed by the pool company included in the Build last year. I watched them blow out the main bottom return and plug the lines at the pump area. I'm guessing that this line does not get antifreeze installed. Maybe the rubber plug holds back the water from the pool. Any thoughts?
    I guess it depends on how your plugs take care of the main drain. I have a double plug...so that when the air is on, I hold the plug in the skimmer pot just far enough so the bottom plug diverts the air that comes in from the skimmer line down to the drain and blows that out. Once I feel it is blown out sufficiently, I push the plug all the way in and then tighten the wing nut at the top. I let the air continue for a few more seconds and then shut it off. The remaining bubbles continue to come up from the air pressure in the lines. By the time the drain line has been blown the skimmer line has already been blown as well. I see no way to then get antifreeze down into the drain line although I do pour a gallon into the return lines and another gallon into the skimmer line (probably unnecessary as you allude to but I do it anyway as a precaution). I always take all the remaining water out of the skimmer pot. If none comes back in, then I'm reasonably certain that the bottom drain is air locked. I used to be so paranoid when I would shut off the air and bubbles continued to appear in the skimmer, since I was sure that all that air was coming right back up from the drain and could envision the line filling back up with water. But then I started emptying the skimmer pot after all is done and now feel pretty confident that if no more water appears, the bottom line is blown and, as you say, with it plugged it prevents water from re-entering the line.
    12,000 gallon gunite, original construction 1989, renovation 2014 using quartz plaster finish

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