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Thread: Another confused newbie

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    Another confused newbie

    Hi, hope someone can help me...

    I just bought a house with a pool so it is all very new to me. I have already bought a taylor test kit.


    Here is the timeline of events:

    Had a independant pool company come out 3 weeks ago and give me a tutorial. They also tested the water and said all was good. I have some Leslie's FRESH N CLEAN oxidizing shock bags (left behind by prior owners) so they told me to dump 3 bags of this shock on a weekly basis which i am doing.

    2 weeks ago I also took a sample of water to leslie to get an official reading since i was getting used to the test kit. Here are their readings..

    FAC = 0
    TAC = 0
    CH =100
    CYA = 90
    TA = 110
    PH = 7.4

    They told me to buy power powder plus and dump two bags to shock it which i did. They also said it might be a good idea buy some stuff to raise the calcium hardness before closing the pool next week.


    This week-- I used the Taylor test kit and tested it again and here are the readings..

    Chlorine = 1-2
    PH = 7.2
    TA = 110
    Calcium = 110


    So two questions...

    1. Should i buy the stuff to raise the calcium hardness?
    2. SHould i buy the Power Plus or keep using the leftover bags to shock it?

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    Re: Another confused newbie

    Welcome aboard!

    1. Don't trust pool store readings - trust your test kit
    2. Make sure to measure and report:
      FC - Free Chlorine - A sanitizer which keeps your pool water safe and free of germs. Chlorine must be constantly replenished. (level depends on CYA)
      PH - Acidity/Alkalinity - Needs to be kept in balance to prevent irritation and protect the pool equipment. (7.2 to 7.8)
      TA - Total Alkalinity - Appropriate levels help keep the PH in balance. High levels can cause PH to rise. (60 to 120, sometimes higher)
      CH - Calcium Hardness - Appropriate levels help prevent plaster damage. High levels can cause calcium scaling. (220 to 350, vinyl lower)
      CYA - Cyanuric Acid - Protects chlorine from sunlight and determines the required FC level. (outdoors 30 to 50, SWG 70 to 80, indoors 0 to 20)
      This comes from Pool School, see
      this link
    3. Don't put anything other than chlorine (or bleach) and muriatic acid in your pool until you've got complete readings of your chemicals


    Bags of shock will cause other chemical levels to go out of balance. Shocking (in TFP parlance, that's SLAM) is nothing more than raising the FC level sufficiently to kill off any algae and other biologics in the water. See Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
    16 x 32 IG plaster pool, 23k gallons, built 1992, DE filter, Pentair VS pump, IoThyngs controller, Taylor 2006 test kit, SoCal water restrictions
    Newbies with green pools, see SLAM and Recommended Test Kits. My company: IoThyngs

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Mod Squad Jimrahbe's Avatar
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    Re: Another confused newbie

    slick,

    Welcome to TFP...

    You should just stop going to the pool store!!!

    Not sure what specific "Taylor" kit you have, so you will need to provide the model or Part number.

    We cannot provide much assistance, at this point, because you forgot to provide us with the most critical reading.. your CYA number.

    Please post back your kit number and what your CYA level is and we will be able to get you pointed in the right direction.

    Jim R.
    Finished in 2015 - 17K Gal, IG, 20' x 25' Almost Rectangular Pool, Pebble finish, three rockport water falls. Pentair Equipment: EasyTouch 4, IC40 SWG, 3 HP VS Pump, CCP520 Cartridge Filter.
    TF100 with SpeedStir and SampleSizer, ColorQ Pro 7, Dolphin Premier Robot Cleaner, added Screen Logic 2.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Another confused newbie

    Welcome to TFP!!!

    We also need to know your pool details. Please fill out your signature.

    The type of pool affects the answer you will get as far as whether you need to raise the CH or not.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
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  5. Back To Top    #5

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    Re: Another confused newbie

    I just updated my signature. I have the TAYLOR K-2005 Professional Swimming Pool Test Kit and it is a 20K gallon pool with concrete base. Its is about 25 X 15 oval shaped pool

    - - - Updated - - -

    CYA was 90
    TAYLOR K-2005 Professional Swimming Pool Test Kit

    20,000 gallon pool with Concrete base

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    Re: Another confused newbie

    All you need to make that kit complete is the FAS-DPD. TFTestkits.net

    I would do the following.

    Order the FAS-DPD test.
    Drain half the water and refill. (You can do this in phases, if it's not convenient to dump half the water at once)
    Once refilled confirm CYA 40-50. If so
    Keep the FC near 5 or slightly higher with the OTO test until your FAS-DPD test arrived.
    If CYA > 60, I would replace water until it was < 60.
    Then use Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart to keep your FC above minimum for your CYA at all times.

    How's the water look?
    32K gallon Plaster - 1hp Hayward 2 speed Super Pump - Hayward S200 Sand Filter - TF100XL
    Test Kits - Pool Math - Chlorine/CYA/Target/Slam Chart

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    Re: Another confused newbie

    Water looks fine
    TAYLOR K-2005 Professional Swimming Pool Test Kit

    20,000 gallon pool with Concrete base

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    Re: Another confused newbie

    Great! Let us know when you get your FAS-DPD kit, and if you have any questions.
    32K gallon Plaster - 1hp Hayward 2 speed Super Pump - Hayward S200 Sand Filter - TF100XL
    Test Kits - Pool Math - Chlorine/CYA/Target/Slam Chart

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Another confused newbie

    What does "concrete base" mean? Does that mean you have concrete under a vinyl liner? Or does that mean you have a plaster/pebble/bead pool?
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
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  10. Back To Top    #10

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    Re: Another confused newbie

    Yes it is plaster.

    So apart from draining the pool isnt there something I could or should be doing? Do I need to do something about the Calcium count?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also here are the complete list of tests done at Leslies

    FAC =0
    TAC = 0
    CH = 100
    CYA = 90
    TA= 110
    PH = 7.4
    Copper = 0
    Iron = 0
    TDS = 1100
    Pho = 0
    Temp= 75
    TAYLOR K-2005 Professional Swimming Pool Test Kit

    20,000 gallon pool with Concrete base

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    Re: Another confused newbie

    It wouldn't make any sense to add CH and then drain it away!

    e: We don't trust pool store testing.
    32K gallon Plaster - 1hp Hayward 2 speed Super Pump - Hayward S200 Sand Filter - TF100XL
    Test Kits - Pool Math - Chlorine/CYA/Target/Slam Chart

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Another confused newbie

    What is the CH in your fill water?
    I would replace water to get the CYA in range, then run a full set of tests. You do want to make sure the CH is up in the 200-300ppm range to you could be damaging the plaster (or keep your pH in the upper 7s). My guess if you get a lot of rain and that dilutes and lowers the CH.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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