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Thread: New pool being built

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Olive Branch, MS

    New pool being built

    Haven't even signed the contract yet but am getting a head start on research. We are installing a 16x40 fiberglass diving pool (approx 21k gallons). I have never owned or maintained a pool. As I read more I am concerned about CYA level so I think I am going to go with the manual pour method to maintain chlorine. My first question of the day is:
    When the pool is brand new, just filled with fresh water; what do I do? How much liquid chlorine do I add? What else do I have to add to begin with? I am going to order a Taylor K-2600 to test my water. But I am just curious about day 1 right now. I can find a lot here about maintaining but can't find day 1. The pool probably won't be complete till mid November, I do not plan to cover it. It will have a VS pump and cartridge filter.
    I do plan on installing a pentair rainbow auto feeder but don't plan to fill it (just a backup, and cheap/easy to do on the install). Is that a problem?

    Enough rambling for my 1 question (though I count 4 question marks).

  2. Back To Top    #2

    In the Industry
    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Sebring, Florida

    Re: New pool being built

    Don't buy anything EXCEPT a test kit. You must know your starting points before you start adding chemistry.

    1. read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School

    2. Order either the K-2006 or the TF-100

    3. Test your fill water (are you filling from a well?)

    4. Test your pool water when it's full and then post the results.

    No problem with using the tyab feeder as a backup
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Mod Squad Texas Splash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    South-Central Texas, Marion/San Antonio

    Re: New pool being built

    Hello and welcome to TFP! Sounds like our pools will be about the same size. I'd like to expand on a few things Dave noted above:
    - You said "K-2600", but did you mean K-2006? If so, I would consider the 2006"C" so that you get more reagents. Otherwise, I use the TF-100 and believe me it's worth it. Same Taylor products with additional reagents that will last about all season. Also consider the magnetic "Speed Stir". See the kit comparisons: Pool School - Test Kits Compared
    - No problem on the auto-feed when used just for when you're away from home. Stick to regular liquid bleach.
    - Get to know the Poolmath calculator . Along with the proper test kit, this will be your most valuable tool.
    - Increasing CYA later (stabilizer) is easy to do via the "sock method" we talk about here often. We can help you with that when the time comes.
    - That metals question is very important. If you have elevated iron from your municipality or from a well, you have some things to consider, so let us know. You might consider taking a water sample from the source to the pool store to see what iron level they show. That's about the only test we would ever recommend going to the store for.
    - Your installer may dump a bunch of stuff in the water once filled. Take notes on what they added!

    Day 1 is always exciting, and we'll help keep you on track. Once full, you can expect the following:
    - Run full battery of tests as Dave noted
    - Add stabilizer for an initial CYA target - probably about 30-40 in your area as things (heat & sun) will taper-down in November
    - Add bleach for a Day 1 target of about 2-3 ppm. Once the stabilizer is all in as noted above, then on Day 2 and beyond increase FC to about 4-5 ppm. FC usage will slow-down quickly in the winter.
    - Adjust pH and TA as required.
    - Low CH is usually not a huge deal for FB pools because most of today's FB pools do not have calcium in the shell. But if you have metals (iron), you want some CH in the water to serve as a buffer to protect from potential staining. Refer to the "Recommended Levels" chart (and others) below in my sig. Even with a FB pool though, you never want CH to get too high (scale).

    At some point, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. Or you can click EDIT YOUR SIGNATURE. It will help us later. This link may also help you: Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post. Don’t forget to include your test kit in the signature.

    Nice to have you with us.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Olive Branch, MS

    Re: New pool being built

    Thanks for he quick replies. I did mean the 2006 and will look at the others. The water will not be coming from a well but thanks for the tip to go ahead and take a sample to the pool store, will do it.

    Pat, we are getting the trilogy atlas pool. I will work on my signature when I know exactly what we are getting for equipment.

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