SWG panel lights question/repair

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okiediver

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2015
56
Ft Myers FL
Pool Size
1
Hello--I have the blinking "no flow" light then it moves to a green "generating" light then the lights go out altogether. I have been reading about replacing the current limiter. I think I can do this.

My question is....I noticed the LCD panel is still showing numbers, is this normal if the limiter is bad?

Could it be the flow switch? How is the flow switch removed to replace? I cant seem to find how to get it off the salt cell.

Thanks for any advice. Much appreciated.
 
Im at work, Ill provide that when I get home although I was just curious if there should be power to the LCD screen at all. Thank you! I don't know know much about electronics at all but I am willing to learn and even more motivated to save money :)
 
Tanner M said:
Yes there is still power to the LCD. Follow the link from the poster above it really isn't that hard. Go get a cheap solder iron from harbor freight you shouldn't need anything more than that to complete the job.
Click to expand...

OMG this is FANTASTIC! We have had a LOT of lightning lately and the biggest earthquake Oklahoma has ever seen last week. I want to blame it on THAT lol. Thanks!
 
When replacing the varesistor I found it is much easier if you don't even try soldering to the board. I just clipped the old one off leaving the legs in place and wrapped them around the legs of the new one. Soldered the connection, clipped off the excess. It left the new part setting away from the board at a 90 degree angle. Easier process and provides better cooling. Just be sure to space it so that it doesn't come in contact with the case or other components. If that is your problem, it's a $2.50 part and will take about a half hour total time to fix.
 
My system is closer to 10 years old and that's the part I used. I'm pretty sure they used the same one up until a couple years ago when they redesigned to eliminate the problem.
 
Thanks Chief. One more question as Im waiting for the part to arrive......the LCD panel looks like its still working....is the salt content displayed still accurate or not? I have been throwing in chlorine but I don't have any salt testing ability.
 

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I wouldn't trust any of the readings until you to working properly. BTW The salt readings become inaccurate as the cell ages. They show salt levels lower than the actual. I found this the hard way, adding salt and adding more, until I figured out that the cell was going. When I replaced the cell I found the salt was so high that I had to drain several thousand gallons to get back down to the correct salt level.
 
The salt isn't going anywhere unless you drain water.

Don't forget to reset the display after you fix the current limiter or your values will really look off!
 
You can compare the chlorine reading in the pool to that right at the return. The water returning through the SWG should be much higher FC level if it's working. Just be sure it's set on 100% output when testing. That of course only shows if it's working or not, doesn't show it's slowly failing which is common.

But if Leslies says it's okay, I'll bet it's okay, since they have a vested interest in selling a new one.
 
The Aquarite is easy to diagnose. They give you the information you need. If the amps and volts are good, it's definitely making the correct amount of chlorine. If the instant salt reading is consistently accurate, the cell is good. It's that easy.
 

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