Taking Over Pool Maintenance from PB - Question on CYA / SWG and Screen Enclosure

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bobandsherry

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Apr 20, 2016
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Riverview, FL
PB had been maintaining the pool, I've been at the wheel for past couple of weeks. Read through the Pool School articles and read through the various forums, I hopefully can navigate the maintenance without major issues. I have a question though as it comes to Chlorine / CYA Chart. I have a quartz pool with SWG and is in a screen enclosure. I'm trying to understand what the target CYA I should be using. From the chart I see that indoor pools have a lower CYA target. I know that the screen enclosure is not the same as indoor, but I do know that the screen will lower the exposure to the sun. So, with that in mind, what would be a good target CYA I should use?

Results from my last pool test:

FC - 5.6
CC - 0.0
PH - 7.5
TA - 80
CH - 250
CYA - 60

With the new pool I've been adding a little hydrochloric acid every 3-4 days to keep the PH in check as it seems to want to creep up due to new plaster along with descents/bubbler. Other than I haven't added anything additional as it seems to be holding all other levels week to week. If anyone has suggestions I'm all ears.

Thanks
 
I would target 50. 40 is probably ok, but if there is a lot of sun on the pool 50 is better. And 60 is fine for now. CYA will drop 3-5ppm per month on its own.

Dropping your TA to 60 will help with the PH rise. It will slowly drop on its own as you add acid to lower PH. Or you can lower fast doing this, Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity
 
Thanks pooldv for the guidance. The pool does get quite a bit of sun, southern facing so gets sun at first daylight and continues until about 4-5PM until house next door casts a bit of a shadow on it. I'll work on the TA to help get things better balanced with the PH.
 
Just an aside. Change your signature to reflect a K-2006 A or C. It currently says 2600.

Also, you can use a 10ml water sample and multiply your drop count by 0.5, or multiply by 2, for your FC/CC tests. The directions are on the inner lid of your kit. Use 1 heaping scoop of power instead of 2.
 
The kit I have, which PB provided, says K-2600 (which is what's in my signature), no A or C indicated. Looking at your signature you only have K-2600 without an A or C. What's the difference between the two?

I'm aware of the 10ml testing, but seems that would have a larger margin of error in the results. Curious what others are doing, the 10ml or 25ml testing, it would save a few $$ on test chemicals, but don't want to have to deal with more pool problems later as a result.
 
I can't find a K-2600 on Taylor's website or even a non-Taylor 2600 anything. Does your kit use a powder for testing FC and CC?

The difference between the A and C is the amount of reagents in the kit. The A comes with 0.75oz bottles and the C with 2oz bottles. I asked because if it had the smaller quantities, you might need to order more.

I happen to have a C, but I am experienced at pool maintenance, so the bottle sizing isn't important for others to know, just the components which are the same in both kits.
 
MarionParoo -- typo on my part, it's K2006 (with powder), updated sig (oops). I have the smaller (.75ml) bottles, I've been looking at which I need to get an order for sooner than the others. Where about are you in Northern IL? I moved from Chicago area earlier this year.

I pushed the PH to 7.2 yesterday and will keep that in check to get the TA down a bit. I'll also go with 10ml tests too. With SWG it's been holding pretty steady except when my Nano would go into Boost mode unexpectedly (PB is still trying to figure out why).
 

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