First of all, thank you to this forum for the wealth of knowledge I have gained since becoming a pool owner several years ago. I have had a lot of success scouring this forum for solutions. I haven't been able to find answers for the current issue(s) I am having with my easy touch so I am hoping my first thread lead to some answers.
Recently my intellibrite light stopped working and it was apparent that water had gotten into the light itself and given the reviews I've found online after searching I wasn't too surprised as it had been 2+ years since it was installed. What I didn't expect was that when I dug up my pavers I found there was a junction boxes that my contractor decided not to switch to code (8 ft behind the light under ground at water level there was the first junction box that was shot. the 2nd box is on the side of the house 40 ft away 2 ft above water level). Conduit ran from the light to the box then just insulated wire from the box to the side of the house where there is 2.5 ft of conduit running up to the other box. After inspection I noticed water had flooded the first box from the hole in the light niche not being sealed. Thankfully at this point only the light was ruined. I unhooked all wiring from the junction boxes, capped off all wires and turned off the circuit and relay to the light. The pool pump and chlorinator functioned properly with the easy touch for over a week while I waited from my new light to arrive. I placed the light in the water and prior to laying new conduit that would run from the light to the main junction box (eliminating the first one now that I have a 50' wire) to test it to make sure it functioned. Before I hooked up the 12v, neutral and ground at the junction box I pulled out my multi meter to test the voltage of the wires. I popped the circuit on for the light and noticed I was getting 120 out of the neutral. I went back to the easy touch and noticed the 15 amp breaker for the primary easy touch transformer was melted at the connection. I replaced it with a new one to spec and tested the voltage again. Still 120 through all neutral wires and the neutral bus bar. Also, when the original breaker melted, the control panel and all the switches stopped working. Below is my message to Pentair. After calling them twice yesterday (45 and 50 minute waits) they weren't much help. They wanted to assume I took a bunch of stuff apart and screwed something up and while i'm not saying I didn't do something wrong, I did not unhook anything else but the wires running to the light in the boxes and they confirmed all wires in the system are connected correctly. Any help would be appreciated:
I am having issues with my easy touch system. I am receiving 120 out of the neutral bus bar that runs vertically along side of the circuit switches. 120 only present when either of the switches for the transformers (primary and/or chlorinator) are turned on. While they are off and only the the main switch for the pump is on, I do not have 120 running from the bus bar. Having the switches on for the primary and chlorinator transformers causes 120 to run through the bus bar and all the neutral lines, including the ones running to my pool light. The wires for the transformers are as follows: Primary = black to circuit, violet to neutral bus bar, yellow capped off. Chlorinator = black & yellow combined into circuit, violet and white each separately to the neutral bus bar. Only other wires connected to neutral bus bar are neutral running to pool light (presently no connection of pool light wires) and white neutral to 120/12 transformer in.
I am hesitant to connect my new amerilite to the wires (12v from transformer, ground and neutral) because of the 120 running through the neutral. Also, the control board and display have stopped functioning rendering my chlorinator and pool light relay from operating. I spoke with a pentair tech and he determined after checking voltage from transformer to the board that the board could be bad. I would like to figure out why I am getting 120 from the neutral bus bar before I start looking at replacement of the motherboard.