Advice on my k2006 test results & next steps

Gigem94

Gold Supporter
Sep 4, 2016
56
Houston, TX
FC 27.5
CC .5
pH 7.8
TA 150
CH 275
CYA 140

New to the forum and pool maintenance, and I currently have a pool tech weekly managing the chemistry with pucks in 2 floaters. The numbers above are my test results, not the techs (which are vastly different). I'd like to know what to do here.

I suspect the the suggestions are to fire the pool person, drain 50% and refill to lower the cya, and stop using pucks, routinely test and get chemistry balanced, determine chlorine consumption and then consider a liquid chlorine feeder. I'm basing this on reading several threads on this forum, but am curious if I'm on the right track.

Thanks for the expert opinions.
 
Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here :)

Great first post by the way. A first question that comes to mind is "how does the water look?"

You've definitely been doing some good research and effective learning. Your plan is a good one. If you're comfortable with the water exchange, that will definitely make your pool care easier.

The only option you have (if the pool is otherwise clean and sparkly) is to manage at high CYA, using 14 ppm FC as your target and 11 ppm FC as your minimum. CYA will drop over time, but it may take a fair while. In the meantime you will not be entirely sure of your pH level, because pH will reads high at FC above 10 ppm. To even consider this option, you need to be confident of your CYA level, which I'm guessing you are, from doing a dilution test per point #9 is this link: Pool School - CYA

There's a few people here who have managed at high CYA and let it come down over time. The significant disadvantage is that if you have a problem with algae it will be very challenging to SLAM the pool (shocking for an extended period of time).

You can be somewhat more sure of your pH by picking up some good quality distilled water (pharmacy is a good source) to dilute your sample before testing for pH. The pH will be reasonably correct after dilution, but the acid and base demand tests are not useful if the sample has been diluted.

And yes, it's a good plan to switch right away to liquid chlorine for day to day maintenance of your FC level. You can stop adding any chlorine for a few days as your FC level drops down to around 15 ppm FC. Save the pucks for future vacations; they keep well as long as they're kept dry.

I think you'll do really well as you take control of your pool. Happy swimming!
 
High Gigem,

Its nice to see someone who's done their homework. You are on the right track. Replacing a bit more than half the water will lower the CYA for you, and if you aren't averse to draining, that's what I would recommend.
 
Thx Needs and Dave. The pool is sparkly clear blue and I pulled the floaters out almost a week ago right after the pool tech rolled through.

A few few additional questions:
1 is it safe to swim with high cya and chlorine levels?
2 can I drain this water into my grass without concern in killing it? My current backwash goes to city sewer but thought I might save on the sprinkler bill
3 how long would you estimate the cya to drop to 40-50? If water replacement is the only method (eg thru rain) then I'm guessing it could take a while.
4 do high cya and chlorine damage my plaster and/or equipment?
5 can a chlorine feeder be tapped in to the return line like an offline puck feeder

Sorry for the random questions.
 
The pool is safe for swimming when it's clear to the bottom so you can see a swimmer in distress, pH is between 7.2 and 7.8, and FC is above minimum (11 ppm) and below shock level (56 ppm) for your CYA, so you're fine on that account.

The water is fine for your grass

No way to know how long CYA would take to drop. If I had to place a wager, I'd only bet on next year sometime.

Not harmful to plaster or equipment if water is kept balanced.

A liquid chlorine injection system just requires an injection point (a tee with a fitting to receive the tube carrying the chlorine)
 
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