Bi-Carb Startup Questions

[daddymack]

We started discussing this in my build thread, but I think this is a more appropriate place to discuss.

My tap water (and water that I am filling pool with) tests like this:


FC 1.0 (basic test kit 1.2)
CC 0
TC 1.0
TA 290
PH 7.2 (basic test kit)
CH 325

This appears to be perfect water for a Bi-Carb startup according to pool school list, without adding anything other than bleach initially. I would then start testing twice a day and add acid and bleach as needed to keep the ph down and the TA up?

 

[jblizzle]

I would have to defer to others on helping with this, but is there a typo in your last sentence? bleach does not raise TA, baking soda does

 

[pooldv]

Here is the definitive guide, A Bicarb Start-up guide for TFP members

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Yes, it appears your fill water has excellent characteristics for a bicarb start up. Just be sure to keep a close eye on your pH. With water that has such a high TA and low pH, the pH will want to rise quickly. You may also want to get some baking soda on hand to help keep your TA stable as your acid additions to control pH will invariably lower TA in the process.

 

[PoolguyinCT]

Not to be a buttinski-- but definitely have whichever start up method you choose approved by finish applicator...

 

[pooldv]

That is good advice.

 

[daddymack]

Here is the definitive guide, A Bicarb Start-up guide for TFP members

I read it, but that process appears to be used in order to change the levels of your water, to what mine already is. so I do not need to adjust it as far as I can tell?

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I would have to defer to others on helping with this, but is there a typo in your last sentence? bleach does not raise TA, baking soda does

Yes, sorry.. I did write it correctly, but was two separate thoughts...lol.. I have a stream of conscious writing method.. :/

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Yes, it appears your fill water has excellent characteristics for a bicarb start up. Just be sure to keep a close eye on your pH. With water that has such a high TA and low pH, the pH will want to rise quickly. You may also want to get some baking soda on hand to help keep your TA stable as your acid additions to control pH will invariably lower TA in the process.

THank you ... that's what I gathered... but also bleach to raise the Chlorine levels so no algae too right?

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Not to be a buttinski-- but definitely have whichever start up method you choose approved by finish applicator...

For sure, thank you.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Careful with bleach on startup. You want to use the correct amount (along with CYA) but not too much to protect the plaster as it cures. My suggestion would be to use dichlor powder to get some FC in the water and then keep a puck floater with trichlor tabs in it to give you a constant sanitizer source.

Now, before anyone freaks out about dichlor/trichlor/CYA-is-evil, the reason why I suggest this approach is because others way smarter than me about plaster have suggested it AND it keeps you from adding salt to your pool which you do not want to do. Bleach has salt in it, albeit in small quantities. Dichlor/trichlor will add about half as much salt as bleach does. Salt is bad for plaster in the first 30 days so keeping it low is a good thing. I'd add about 10ppm FC using dichlor (~ 24oz/10000gal) which will raise your CYA up to 9ppm and then just use trichlor tabs in a float to keep the FC up. You'll need to monitor your CYA a couple of times. In 10,000 gallons, three 8oz trichlor pucks will raise your CYA by about 10ppm and add a total of about 16ppm FC.

FYI - all those numbers are from PoolMath....learn how to use it now before you need it later....

 

[daddymack]

Careful with bleach on startup. You want to use the correct amount (along with CYA) but not too much to protect the plaster as it cures. My suggestion would be to use dichlor powder to get some FC in the water and then keep a puck floater with trichlor tabs in it to give you a constant sanitizer source.

Now, before anyone freaks out about dichlor/trichlor/CYA-is-evil, the reason why I suggest this approach is because others way smarter than me about plaster have suggested it AND it keeps you from adding salt to your pool which you do not want to do. Bleach has salt in it, albeit in small quantities. Dichlor/trichlor will add about half as much salt as bleach does. Salt is bad for plaster in the first 30 days so keeping it low is a good thing. I'd add about 10ppm FC using dichlor (~ 24oz/10000gal) which will raise your CYA up to 9ppm and then just use trichlor tabs in a float to keep the FC up. You'll need to monitor your CYA a couple of times. In 10,000 gallons, three 8oz trichlor pucks will raise your CYA by about 10ppm and add a total of about 16ppm FC.

FYI - all those numbers are from PoolMath....learn how to use it now before you need it later....

I just read through the JaimeP thread, I am going to stock up on Pucks and Acid..lol and a little bit of Baking soda. Also, they seem to use Jacks Pink, versus Magenta around here.. not sure the difference.

What I didn't understand though is why the fluctuating 7.7 - 7.8 PH... the Baking Soda Startup says PH between 7.2 and 8.2.. so, why the variations? BDavis?

Haha! I also just caught the bolded portion that says my water is fine to start with... after reading it three times... sheesh..

 

[pooldv]

Jack's Magic The Pink Stuff is regular, The Blue Stuff is for fresh plaster and The Purple Stuff is for saltwater pools.