First time green pool

Completed test #10, about 4:45 after test #9.

SLAM target: 22/24
FC: 20

I am still going to maintain the higher SLAM level during the day by adding another 64oz of 8.25% bleach. About 1.5 cups of DE has been added. My pressure gauge was a bit jumpy after the backwash, so I only added 1.5 cups OF DE just to see where it settles.

Pool looks good and the wife is impressed with the results so far.

Pump will be running, aerator open, and Kreepy Krauly attached.
 
Vaalpens - I am also in Phoenix (West side). There are several pool stores here that carry HAASA chlorine, which is much stronger than Walmart bleach. It comes as a gallon (128 oz) and is 12.5% strength. It comes 4 gallons to a plastic tote. You pay a small deposit on your first purchase of each tote, but then exchange the tote and all empty gallon jugs the next time, without the deposit charge. The chlorine is much stronger, the tote protects the car during transport, and I like that I am recycling the jugs. You can google HAASA to see where it is sold near you.
 
Vaalpens - I am also in Phoenix (West side). There are several pool stores here that carry HAASA chlorine, which is much stronger than Walmart bleach. It comes as a gallon (128 oz) and is 12.5% strength. It comes 4 gallons to a plastic tote. You pay a small deposit on your first purchase of each tote, but then exchange the tote and all empty gallon jugs the next time, without the deposit charge. The chlorine is much stronger, the tote protects the car during transport, and I like that I am recycling the jugs. You can google HAASA to see where it is sold near you.

gemphx, thanks for the information. I will wait until I am doing my regular maintenance to figure out how much I will need and what will work out the best for me. Both Wallmart and Home Depot sells the 10% liquid chlorine, which works out cheaper than the bleach taking the percentage into consideration.
 
Completed test #11, about 4 hours after test #10.

SLAM target: 22/24
FC: 20.5

Hopefully this will be the last SLAM setting up for a last test tonight and then the OCLT overnight. Another at least 57oz of 8.25% bleach will be added.

Pool looks very good, pump still running, aerator open, and Kreepy Krauly attached.

DSCN1662.jpg
 
Completed test #12, about 4 hours after test #11.

SLAM target: 22/24
FC: 23.5

Last test for the evening which sets up the OCLT test overnight. No bleach added at this time.

Pool still looks very good, pump still running, aerator open, and Kreepy Krauly attached.
 
I just completed my first test of the day, test #13 about 11:30 after test #12.

SLAM target: 22/24
FC: 22.5
CC: 0.5
OCLT: 0

It looks like I passed all the SLAM tests.

The next step will be to let the FC come down to my target level of 6. I decided to go with the 6 since my CYA was at about 53, so I target halfway between 50 and 60. Once I get to 6, I will then check my other levels also. The main tests will be pH, TA and CH.

My question the the forum members, what other important tests should be performed, and when do I verify my CYA level again. I am planning to bring the CYA level down to the 40 range later in the year.

DSCN1664.jpg

 
Can you see the screws on the bottom of the main drain or tell if a quarter in the deep end is heads or tails? Any cloudiness remaining?


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I check FC/pH every 1-2 days. I run the whole test every 1-2 weeks. TA, CH, CYA don't change that much without water exchange or obviously you intentionally changing them.

Most people in your neck of the woods keep their CYA around 50. Unless you have a very shaded pool, I wouldn't lower CYA too much.
 

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Can you see the screws on the bottom of the main drain or tell if a quarter in the deep end is heads or tails? Any cloudiness remaining?


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I can see the screws at the bottom of the main drain, but I'm not sure if my pool is as sparkling clear like I've seen in a few pictures posted on this forum. I am trying the DE added to my sand filter method to see if I can get further improvement. For now the pool looks great, but I'll see if I can get it even better with the DE treatment.

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I check FC/pH every 1-2 days. I run the whole test every 1-2 weeks. TA, CH, CYA don't change that much without water exchange or obviously you intentionally changing them.

Most people in your neck of the woods keep their CYA around 50. Unless you have a very shaded pool, I wouldn't lower CYA too much.

Thanks for the advice.

I think I will test it every day to get a feel of the FC consumption and scale down a bit once I start seeing a trend.

Regarding the pH. In Phoenix the aerator is always open since it helps to cool the water down a bit. I have read that aerating the water will increase the pH. Any idea by how much the aerator increases the pH?
 
I was asking about the water clarity because one of the criteria to finishing a slam is clear water meaning no more cloudiness. The de should help you get the water polished looking.

The rise of ph from aerating depends on your ta. The higher your ta the faster ph will rise. Your ph could be pretty high. You might want to stop aerating until you can safely test it. Each pool is different but keeping a lot of test results and Chemical additions should help you understand your pool.


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Just for your info, but I do not think it matters that much and as you go along you will fine tune your pool more, but, for the record, CYA Test is not linear, that is why there is more space between the numbered increments as you go up the tube. So if you divide the space between 50 and 60 into even tenths and read 53 it is more than 53 but if you take 55 you are close but technically you are supposed to go to 60 if you pass 50. Also, it seems myself and several other seem to go up 1 or 2 ppm from suggested targets as at the target we seem to get algae bloom every once in a while. I am on a heavily wooded lot that backs up to woods and have lots bugs and frogs that want there pond back. I get the algae at target level when I use solar cover. But once you see the sparkle, when it leaves you know something is up and you catch it before it gets out of hand and never miss a swim. Also another test I use is wear googles and see if I have good visibility underwater from one end of pool to the other. My pool is 40' long and is a little quicker indicator than looking into deep end to see screws for me.
 
Just for your info, but I do not think it matters that much and as you go along you will fine tune your pool more, but, for the record, CYA Test is not linear, that is why there is more space between the numbered increments as you go up the tube. So if you divide the space between 50 and 60 into even tenths and read 53 it is more than 53 but if you take 55 you are close but technically you are supposed to go to 60 if you pass 50. Also, it seems myself and several other seem to go up 1 or 2 ppm from suggested targets as at the target we seem to get algae bloom every once in a while. I am on a heavily wooded lot that backs up to woods and have lots bugs and frogs that want there pond back. I get the algae at target level when I use solar cover. But once you see the sparkle, when it leaves you know something is up and you catch it before it gets out of hand and never miss a swim. Also another test I use is wear googles and see if I have good visibility underwater from one end of pool to the other. My pool is 40' long and is a little quicker indicator than looking into deep end to see screws for me.

Thanks for the explanation about the CYA. I will definitely err on the high side when targeting an FC value.

The clear test is difficult since I have been comparing to what I have seen before. My pool is definitely better than I have seen it in ages, but I will monitor it to make sure it does not deteriorate into something needing extreme measures again.

This is what the pool looked like a few hours ago.
DSCN1670.jpg
 
I was asking about the water clarity because one of the criteria to finishing a slam is clear water meaning no more cloudiness. The de should help you get the water polished looking.

The rise of ph from aerating depends on your ta. The higher your ta the faster ph will rise. Your ph could be pretty high. You might want to stop aerating until you can safely test it. Each pool is different but keeping a lot of test results and Chemical additions should help you understand your pool.


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Thanks, and yes I understand the water clarity is one of the criteria to pass the test. My pool has no cloudiness and is as clear as I have seen it in a long time.

Today I kept the pump running even though I indicated the SLAM test was complete. Tomorrow the plan is to test everything once the FC level reached my targeted level of 6. or at least below 10.
 
I completed my first post-SLAM test about 11:30 after test #13.

Target FC: 7
FC: 14.5
CC: 0.5
CH: 330
TA: No tested yet
pH: Not tested yet
CSI: No number yet
CYA: 53/60 on 9/2/16

The pool lost 9 FC since early this morning. Assuming it will loose another 9 tomorrow, that will put the FC level at 5.5, which is above minimum but lower than my target of 7. To be safe since I am just coming out of the SLAM, 24oz of 8.25 bleach will be added to put the FC at 16, and should then be at 7 by end of the next day.

My question to the forum members, do you try to get to your target FC level at the end of the day (after FC was consumed), or beginning of the day (before FC gets consumed).
 
I'm a little surprised at the amount of Fc loss you had today. I too would like to see some pics that show the water clarity. How about a pic of the creepy crawly when it is in the deep end?


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It is hard with your finish cover and no apparent main drain to tell how clear it is. How about a pic with a brush in it or something.

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I wonder because in your pic I can't see the kreepy crawly hose in places.

I will take a picture tomorrow when the pump is not running. There is a lot of ripples on the water due to the Kreepy Krauly and the aerator, which makes it difficult to see.

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I'm a little surprised at the amount of Fc loss you had today. I too would like to see some pics that show the water clarity. How about a pic of the creepy crawly when it is in the deep end?


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I did not know what to expect in FC loss during the day. What is normal? I did not check the temperature today, but it was supposed to reach a high of 100 today.
 

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