Foam 2x Weeks

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The advice we give is based on accurate test results. It's the whole premise of TFP. if we don't have accurate test results, the advice will likely not really be any different than the dump it in and hope it works method of the pool store. I test to see where my levels are at, check the pool calculator to see how much I need to add, and follow the maintanence advice, such as brushing amd backwashing at the appropriate time. I don't experience foam, or burning eyes, or algae. The reason everyone is so passionate (lol) about the proper kit, is because the TFP works when you follow it closely. If you need to SLAM (chances are you might if you needed to use algaecide in the first place) you need to be able to maintain a high FC, especially if your CYA is high. You also need to be able to measure FC in smaller increments to see if you've passed the OCLT. Those are the reasons we recommend the kits we do if you want our help.

As for the millions of people getting by without the kit, I'd bet about 3/4 eventually deal with ongoing problems like algae and scale, and pay the pool store big bucks to "fix" it. If only for a brief time.
 
jdomke1 said:
My reaction is no different than yours. You were having "fun" with your comment and so was I. What's the difference? I enjoy this forum for the wealth of info I've received dealing with a pool after buying a house. The only issue I have is when people refuse to help you unless you buy some special test kit. Millions of pool owners get by just fine without using them. I think the attraction of the test strips is pure simplicity. No need to add drops, stir, etc. just dip and get a result. It may not meet the accuracy level of the fancy kits but does lend some help when problems come up.
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If you went to a car forum, and said you had a leatherman tool but wanted to fix your transmission. Would you mock people if they said you needed a proper socket set, breaker bars, and jack (and other tools I'm sure - I'm not a mechanic)?

Very few of us have any skin in the game here - I certainly wish I got a referral bonus from recommending TF-100's. What I do know is that a proper test kit for your pool will give you the exact numbers you need to be successful in keeping it sanitary and looking awesome. Your pool is a giant chemistry experiment - accurately measuring the key indices is what will keep it safe to swim in, and save you the most money. Nobody wants to have to SLAM. Between the extra cost of chlorine, electricity from having to run the pump, and wasted time from having to stay on top of it until it clears - it's a pain in the rear. Having accurate measurements can keep you from having to SLAM in the first place. Knowing what you are putting into your pool can prevent costly acid washes and other treatments to sequester metals. Understanding your fill water can prevent the same.

You mentioned you had a 5-way kit above. If you can give us the model number, we can likely give you recommendations of the exact tests you need to finish out your test kit. The numbers you provided above had a HUGE delta! How can you trust your numbers when nothing agrees with anything else? Seriously, we're not trying to make a profit off of you, we're trying to get you to a spot where you can understand your pool chemistry and spend your days swimming instead of scratching your head at what is wrong this time. 99% of us here are volunteers who don't make a dime off of our help - we just enjoy understanding our pools and helping others to understand theirs too. :)
 
This was a simple request for how to get rid of foam and has ended in a chemistry discussion. The foam was likely caused by the algaecide I over added. I've seen spa chemicals you can add to deal with foam but this sounds like something different. I was hoping for a simple answer and it sounds like slamming with chlorine might be the trick. Hopefully I can get out tomorrow and get some then post back the positive results. I'll be cleaning the filter for sure this weekend when I have help from my sons. Being disabled limits my ability to do physical things like filter cleaning and also getting out to the store.


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jdomke1 said:
I think the attraction of the test strips is pure simplicity.
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That is the attraction. The problem is that they aren't accurate. My local pool store uses them. Their results are bad. The pH level I got from the pool store was off by 0.5. That's HUGE. If I'd done what they said I would have had a pH above 8. That's way too high.

I'm like you, and recently took possession of a house with an existing pool. Look at my profile and see how long I've been here. Look at my posts. I too had to drain to drop down my stabilizer level. It was a pain in the butt and time consuming. It wasn't as costly as for you because I live in the southeast, where water is cheap. I also have a similar filter system (not sure of your exact System 3 model). Our pools are a similar size. Mine's vinyl though so I have to worry about one less test.

This site has a wealth of information and helpful people as far as I've seen. I haven't gotten a single piece of bad advice.

I know you are looking for a single answer, based on this thread. You want someone to tell you to add X of chemical Y. That's not gonna happen. There's a lot of different chemicals acting in concert together.

Drop the 100 bucks on a good test kit and get help. Or don't. It's up to you man.

EDIT:

Also, this might help with cleaning the System 3 filters. It's kinda pricey but is made for getting into the folds:

Filter Flosser 60-1000 Pool and Spa Filter Cartridge Cleaning Tool
 
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I can understand your reluctance to purchase a test kit when you can the results a lot cheaper, just a lot less accurate. Also we can begin to sound a bit like a cult with the repeated 'buy a test kit...'
Does it really matter to have that level so accurate. Generally yes because virtually noone comes here and says 'help my pool is perfectly clear and I have no problems, what do I do?'
We are usually trying to remote troubleshoot issues and having results that are reliable and accurate is essential
It also does save money over the course of the season as you only need to add exact doses of what is required, without guessing

If you only want to dip your toes in to start there are a couple of options
Goto Walmart and pick up the HTH kit we recommend for seasonal pools, a lot lower cost but reliable enough to compare against your test strips to see how accurate they are. It only has 2 CYA tests (I think) but at least you could run the other tests. I think its about $25
Purchase the TF50 from tf test kits for $45, smaller value kit with no ph test. Strips or the pool store are usually close on that test

I do think if you try those then you will be qualified to say either you are happy with the strips cos they are 'close enough' for you or you will see the value in the very accurate drop tests

I for one am happy to continue to offer suggestions and hang out.
 
Foaming in hot tubs is usually caused by a lack of CH in the water. Your foaming is different, it is from organic matter and algaecide. The way to get rid of the foaming typically is to keep your FC halfway between target and shock level for your CYA, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. But, if you have algae then the best way to determine if you need to SLAM Process is to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If it passes then the lower FC level will fix the foaming. If it doesn't pass then you need to follow the SLAM Process process, Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain. All of these processes require that you know what your CYA level is within 10 ppm and that you be able to test FC at high levels and within 0.5 ppm accuracy. This requires an FAS/DPD chlorine test which tests FC up to 50 ppm with an accuracy of 0.2 ppm. Which is why the discussion turned into a chemistry discussion.
 

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Finally picked up some chlorine. Used a tip on this board about the crate purchase and picked up one at my local mom and pop pool store. They said they love this site btw. Ran my numbers and my FC went from 3 yesterday to 5 today. Did the pool calculator and it told me to add two quarts and 3 cups. I'll check tomorrow to see the levels and hope the foam is gone. Btw the pool shop showed me an improved filter for the system 3. Instead of a monster 200 sq ft and smaller 100 sq ft, it was three of the smaller 100 units in a circle. Easier to lift out one by one and thus easier to clean. Very cool. I'll wait until my current filters reach their life span. They also confirmed the psi on the system 3 should have the filter cleaned when it hits 18-20. Mine starts out at around 8 which they say is normal. Right now it's only 12 but I'll still clean because of the foaming issue. No more algaecide for me. Just plain old bleach and keeping my FC level up. The mom and pops uses the Taylor test kit as well as something that spins and has better results. I'll try them next time to see how they compare to mine. At least they don't try and sell the store. Not pushy and they didn't even take a deposit because they remember me from before.


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a) I bought my taylor kit from amazon when I first found this site partially (though not entirely) because I felt like the TFPtestkit version was pushed so heavily, it felt a little weird. Having worked in the pool industry at one point, I knew and trusted the Taylor name. And it was only $65 or so. My local pool store wanted to sell my $400 in chemicals to start my pool up, so I was happy to say no, take some of that money to get a test kit, and just buy bleach from there on out.

b) I find it weird that people think putting drops in a sample of water and watching for color changes is chemistry, or hard. The taylor kit even has the instructions inside the top of the lid, so they are right in front of you the whole time. The CYA test is the hardest, not because the steps are hard, just because it is very subjective. But it'll get you a lot closer than somewhere between 50 and 100.
 
Can you give us the results from the spinning test, my guess is that is from a Lamotte Waterlink Spinlab, which if operated properly seems to have some of the best results of the various automated testers, although it does still have an upper limit of 15 ppm on the FC test. I mention operated properly as it has issues if the bottom side of the disk gets contaminated (such as would happen by sitting it on a dirty table while filling the sample), or if air bubbles get into the disk (did they hold it up to the light to check for air bubbles after filling the disk?).

Ike

p.s. If you want to know why the Spinlab is not on the list of suggested test kits, the answer is simple, the base unit sells for about $750 (maybe more I have not checked in the last year or so), and the per test cost for those disks is 3 to 4 times higher than the per test cost on the TF-100, in addition there is that 15 ppm max FC reading limit so it would be useless if one was trying to maintain FC during a SLAM
 
Slightly less foam today. Either due to time or added chlorine. The spa still looks very cloudy as water enters there from the pool and then spills back into the pool. I suspect my filter cleaning tomorrow will help.


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Cleaned filter. It needed it. Pressure back down to less than 10psi. Still got foam when I turn on the blower but the spa doesn't look cloudy when using it in spillway mode. Perhaps nearly done with this saga. Despite FC being 5-6 there is still a strong chlorine smell in the spa when I hit the blower.


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harleysilo said:
Is the return water not cloudy but full of tiny bubbles? When my SWG is generating my returns spew forth tiny bubbles which in otherwise pristine water could be confused with cloudiness....
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Yes there are bubbles from SWG. I'm glad I learned that here. Always wondered why I had tiny bubbles coming out of jets. As for the foam, before the spa would get cloudy once I went to spillway mode and then foam appeared when the water splashed into the pool. Now, after cleaning, it looks much more clear and the foam is basically non-existent in spillway mode. However, I still get 4-6" of foam when I turn on the blower. Driving me crazy. I want to sue the algaecide people but it's my fault for pouring in too much.


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