I have an intermittent problem with my IceBreaker heat pump.
The heat pump can be used to cool the pool water in addition to heating it. But, the valve inside the heat pump that controls heating versus cooling mode sometimes sticks in heating mode when it should be cooling. But, that's another story...
That's what happened Friday night. We turned the heat pump on in cooling mode so that we could get the pool down to a nice refreshing temperature for a party Saturday night. But, when I checked the pool temperature Saturday afternoon around 2:00 pm, it was 100F! Not good!
While I worked on getting the heat pump valve unstuck, I decided to start cooling the pool using well water. I back washed about 6" of water from the pool and started refilling with cool water from the well.
Within an hour, the pool water was tinted green. Clear, but definitely a green tint.
FC, PH, and TA were right on target--same as they've been for six months with no issues. CC was zero.
I have an iron test kit, and tested the pool water, but saw 0 iron. Copper is the same residual .1 ppm I've had since last winter when I stopped using an Copper Ionizer.
I saw a post that DuraLeigh responded to that he sees something similar every year when he opens his pool and adds well water. He said the tint goes away in a couple of days.
I decided to shock the pool to rule out organics (but CC is zero already) and run to Lowes/HD to get some DE to add to the filter. The best theory I have is that the well water does have iron, but for some reason it's not detected by the Taylor test kit.
Now I recall that when we first filled the pool, we used two truckloads of water and I finished filling the pool with well water (maybe the last foot, IIRC). I remember there was a green tint to the water. At that time, we weren't sure if that's just the way the water would look with our Pebblecoat, so we didn't worry about it.
Anyway, I plan to shock (not SLAM, since CC is already 0) it for 24 hours and add the DE and see what happens. I'll report what happens.