While testing pump on or off shouldn't matter but you will want it on when adding chems to circulate properly. You will want to do all this in the evening. You can technically test any time of day but avoiding the sun is a good idea.
Local area pool store water testing descrepancies
- Thread starter mijmic
- Start date
While the pump doesn't need to be on, it's best to collect your test sample when the pool water has been well circulated and mixed. I test when the pump has been running for at least 30 minutes to ensure the water is well mixed.
No need to avoid the sun when testing. I test in the early evening for convenience (as soon as I get home from work). I always dose chlorine late in the day to avoid losses to UV (sunlight).
I try to test & dose at the same time each day to keep things consistent.
The pump should be running for 30 minutes prior to any testing. This will make sure that the water isn't stratified.
Try to take the sample from the same place in the pool, too.
The test kit can the methods discussed here can be overwhelming at first, but trust me, it will all sink in quickly and it will all click and make sense.
Once you get the hang of it, it takes a few minutes a day.
The maintenance schedule is easy.
Test FC and PH daily.
Test TA and CH weekly.
CYA monthly or after a lot of water exchange.
Try to take the sample from the same place in the pool, too.
The test kit can the methods discussed here can be overwhelming at first, but trust me, it will all sink in quickly and it will all click and make sense.
Once you get the hang of it, it takes a few minutes a day.
The maintenance schedule is easy.
Test FC and PH daily.
Test TA and CH weekly.
CYA monthly or after a lot of water exchange.
Prior to my initial post, I did spend some time reviewing the relative pool school charts, etc. here, albeit skimming. As mentioned, I do have a test kit, a Pentair Rainbow model 78. As usual, it came up dark yellow (above the highest mark of 3 on the color scale attached to where the 5 drops go in). I didn't realize though that this OTO solution (Orthotolidine) tests for Total Chlorine, not Free. I just assumed, dark yellow (above the 3.0 mark) means lot's of chlorine, so all's good. 
The mentioned TF-100 test kit that's recommended here is pretty expensive, is it really worth the cost? Are there others that do a solid job for less? Appears that Free Chlorine and CYA are the two most critical if my interpretation here is correct.
The "pool stored" comments are funny, I guess it's possible, however, I enjoy going there (Oasis Pools) as a couple of the long time employees are Syracuse hoops fans, which, I'm a big fan myself, football & lax too! Maybe that's why, as Holydoc mentioned, even though my home test appeared good, as did Leslie's, my brain went with the one place that said "Danger Will Robinson"...shock it!
Water remains crystal clear, as it was prior to the apparent unnecessary shocking.
Thanks!
The mentioned TF-100 test kit that's recommended here is pretty expensive, is it really worth the cost? Are there others that do a solid job for less? Appears that Free Chlorine and CYA are the two most critical if my interpretation here is correct.The "pool stored" comments are funny, I guess it's possible, however, I enjoy going there (Oasis Pools) as a couple of the long time employees are Syracuse hoops fans, which, I'm a big fan myself, football & lax too! Maybe that's why, as Holydoc mentioned, even though my home test appeared good, as did Leslie's, my brain went with the one place that said "Danger Will Robinson"...shock it!
Water remains crystal clear, as it was prior to the apparent unnecessary shocking.
Thanks!
- Mar 24, 2014
- 2,455
- Pool Size
- 32000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-55
It's either a TF-100 or a Taylor 2006(c). No other test kit that I know of tests high levels of FC, CYA with any degree of accuracy, etc. The refills are not expensive at all (look on the website for yourself ) and I find I only need to buy one or two refills a season.
This isn't to you personally, just a general statement, but I am befuddled as to why people can't wait to buy hundreds of dollars of "stuff" to blindly throw in their pools then all of a sudden get sticker shock over a $70 test kit that helps you keep your water not only safe but crystal clear for years.
) and I find I only need to buy one or two refills a season. This isn't to you personally, just a general statement, but I am befuddled as to why people can't wait to buy hundreds of dollars of "stuff" to blindly throw in their pools then all of a sudden get sticker shock over a $70 test kit that helps you keep your water not only safe but crystal clear for years.
Your test kit is missing three important tests:
1. FAS-DPD FC/CC test (it uses powder and can test high levels of chlorine) ($26 TFTestkits.net)
2. CH (Calcium Hardness) These can be bought individually for around $10
3. CYA ($17 from TF Test kits) TFTestkits.net
This comes in around $53.
TF-100 is $70 and it can replace what you have. TFTestkits.net
The full TF-100 should get you through this season and next season. For the 2018 season, you can get a refill for about $48 TFTestkits.net
It really is a no-brainer. You can keep going to the pool store and the Syracuse fans will gladly give you free unreliable results and try to sell you magic potions, or you can get accurate results and monitor the water quality yourself.
Crystal clear doesn't always mean safe water. You could be undershooting your FC which can allow pathogens to grow (think person to person transmission, ear infections, etc) or you could be overshooting your SWG run time which will shorten the life of your SWG. Or, your CYA could be too low for your SWG causing you to run it more than necessary and shortening its life.
The CH results could be unreliable and lead to early failure of your pool surface which can get really expensive. Or, your CH could be too high and lead to scale on the pool surface and the need to clean your SWG more than necessary which will shorten the life of your SWG.
I could go on, but I think you get the point.
1. FAS-DPD FC/CC test (it uses powder and can test high levels of chlorine) ($26 TFTestkits.net)
2. CH (Calcium Hardness) These can be bought individually for around $10
3. CYA ($17 from TF Test kits) TFTestkits.net
This comes in around $53.
TF-100 is $70 and it can replace what you have. TFTestkits.net
The full TF-100 should get you through this season and next season. For the 2018 season, you can get a refill for about $48 TFTestkits.net
It really is a no-brainer. You can keep going to the pool store and the Syracuse fans will gladly give you free unreliable results and try to sell you magic potions, or you can get accurate results and monitor the water quality yourself.
Crystal clear doesn't always mean safe water. You could be undershooting your FC which can allow pathogens to grow (think person to person transmission, ear infections, etc) or you could be overshooting your SWG run time which will shorten the life of your SWG. Or, your CYA could be too low for your SWG causing you to run it more than necessary and shortening its life.
The CH results could be unreliable and lead to early failure of your pool surface which can get really expensive. Or, your CH could be too high and lead to scale on the pool surface and the need to clean your SWG more than necessary which will shorten the life of your SWG.
I could go on, but I think you get the point.
I am not sure about in your market, but the pool listed in your signature would be at least a $50,000 pool around here, yet you question the need for a reliable test kit that you can buy for under $100 that can help you not only maintain clear safe water, but also help extend the life of the pool equipment and finish, as well as likely save its own cost multiple times per year in un needed pool chemicals? I can sometimes understand these concerns coming from people with a semi-disposable seasonal pool that only costs a couple of hundred dollars, but that is not your situation.
I understand what you're saying. Although my behavior running to the pool stores for testing/chemicals, etc., may not reflect it, I am a bit frugal and always looking to save some cash, however, not at the expense if the extra quality is worth it. I've only had the pool for a couple of years, so still learning and inquiring.
I get it...thanks for the information. For what it's worth, the Syracuse guys don't work in the pool chemistry department, but rather in the outdoor furniture and warehouse.
It's either a TF-100 or a Taylor 2006(c). No other test kit that I know of tests high levels of FC, CYA with any degree of accuracy, etc. The refills are not expensive at all (look on the website for yourself
This isn't to you personally, just a general statement, but I am befuddled as to why people can't wait to buy hundreds of dollars of "stuff" to blindly throw in their pools then all of a sudden get sticker shock over a $70 test kit that helps you keep your water not only safe but crystal clear for years.
Thanks! Are the TF-100 and Taylor 2006 only sold exclusively at this (TFP) website?
This website is a non-profit and if you ever choose to donate it is tax deductible.
The TF-100 is sold by TF Test kits and is completely separate.
The K-2006 is sold in many places, but it isn't the economical choice.
Here is a comparison of test kits that shows the TF-100 is the best buy and that there is a difference between the K-2006 and the K-2006C : Pool School - Test Kits Compared
The TF-100 is sold by TF Test kits and is completely separate.
The K-2006 is sold in many places, but it isn't the economical choice.
Here is a comparison of test kits that shows the TF-100 is the best buy and that there is a difference between the K-2006 and the K-2006C : Pool School - Test Kits Compared
One other thing, before buying from some big online retailer that sells the K-2006C (note C is the larger commercial size kit, the standard cheaper K-2006A is much smaller) along with everything from TV's to beachware and ships out of giant warehouses, keep in mind that these test kits have a limited shelf life, and it is important to store them in climate controlled conditions. This is not to say that these big etailers store things improperly or that they have old inventory, just that they may not be aware of these issues.
Ike
p.s. another point in favor of the TF-100 is that early each spring (at least since I have been here) TF Testkits has an early season kit refill sale which gives you all fresh reagents for about 2/3 the cost of the full kit. (I forget the exact amount as I missed the sale this spring)
Ike
p.s. another point in favor of the TF-100 is that early each spring (at least since I have been here) TF Testkits has an early season kit refill sale which gives you all fresh reagents for about 2/3 the cost of the full kit. (I forget the exact amount as I missed the sale this spring)
Thanks...good to know. I'm going to 'bite the bullet' and purchase the TF-100!
I really appreciate everyone's input.
As I await my TF-100 (purchased Speedstir & Salt Test Strips as well) I had my pool water tested again this afternoon at a 3rd location. Now, I was getting my haircut today and recalled that this True Value Hardware store did pool water tests. It was the first time I had taken a pool sample there.
These were the readings:
Free Chlorine 7.7 ppm
Total Chlorine 8.6 ppm
CC 0.9 ppm
PH 7.8
CH 209 ppm
TA 46 ppm
CYA 69 ppm
Note: this location doesn't test for salt.
So, it appears that the Oasis Pools test from the other day may have been the more accurate one, and Leslie's was incorrect. The Oasis printout required 12 lbs. of shock (I only applied 6 lbs. shock) as I wasn't 100% convinced due to my own test and Leslie's. The Oasis Pools test had my CC at 2.5 ppm, so today's 0.9 CC reading is an improvement. The True Value printout today requested 3 lbs. of shock, so I did this a short time ago and will run the filter for 24 consecutive hours as recommended.
I realize (based on today's reading) that PH is now a bit on the high side at 7.8, whereas 3 days ago both locations had it at 7.4. I usually have to dump a gal of Muriatic Acid in my pool every week to keep PH below 7.8 to the 8.0 range. (I've been told this is typical with relatively new concrete pools along with a SWG) I also realize that my TA is low, but waiting for chlorine readings to be in check prior to dumping in any baking soda. I have 2 12lbs bags from Wal-mart ready to dump into the pool...
The water remains crystal clear, with no visible signs of algae, etc.
As I mentioned during my initial post, it has been a common occurrence for my exact same pool samples to be considerable different at different pool stores, but I never (in the two years that I've had the pool) had a test done where my CC was not at 0.0 or within the recommended range of 0.0-0.2 ppm. I'm not sure what has caused this, other than possibly the lack of me doing the weekly (stretching to every week and half to two week) shocking? I hadn't shocked the pool the entire month of July or August until this past Monday the 22nd, and, for the most part, my pool water temp during this time has been consistently in the low to mid 90's. Currently, my water temp is 91 degrees.
My SWG is set at 60%, which is where I've had it the past two summers.
Thanks!
Now, I was getting my haircut today and recalled that this True Value Hardware store did pool water tests. It was the first time I had taken a pool sample there.These were the readings:
Free Chlorine 7.7 ppm
Total Chlorine 8.6 ppm
CC 0.9 ppm
PH 7.8
CH 209 ppm
TA 46 ppm
CYA 69 ppm
Note: this location doesn't test for salt.
So, it appears that the Oasis Pools test from the other day may have been the more accurate one, and Leslie's was incorrect. The Oasis printout required 12 lbs. of shock (I only applied 6 lbs. shock) as I wasn't 100% convinced due to my own test and Leslie's. The Oasis Pools test had my CC at 2.5 ppm, so today's 0.9 CC reading is an improvement. The True Value printout today requested 3 lbs. of shock, so I did this a short time ago and will run the filter for 24 consecutive hours as recommended.
I realize (based on today's reading) that PH is now a bit on the high side at 7.8, whereas 3 days ago both locations had it at 7.4. I usually have to dump a gal of Muriatic Acid in my pool every week to keep PH below 7.8 to the 8.0 range. (I've been told this is typical with relatively new concrete pools along with a SWG) I also realize that my TA is low, but waiting for chlorine readings to be in check prior to dumping in any baking soda. I have 2 12lbs bags from Wal-mart ready to dump into the pool...
The water remains crystal clear, with no visible signs of algae, etc.
As I mentioned during my initial post, it has been a common occurrence for my exact same pool samples to be considerable different at different pool stores, but I never (in the two years that I've had the pool) had a test done where my CC was not at 0.0 or within the recommended range of 0.0-0.2 ppm. I'm not sure what has caused this, other than possibly the lack of me doing the weekly (stretching to every week and half to two week) shocking? I hadn't shocked the pool the entire month of July or August until this past Monday the 22nd, and, for the most part, my pool water temp during this time has been consistently in the low to mid 90's. Currently, my water temp is 91 degrees.
My SWG is set at 60%, which is where I've had it the past two summers.
Thanks!
With luck your TF-100 will be there tomorrow (they ship out of NC) and we can get some confirmation on those test numbers
When you say "shock" what do you mean? If it is powder stuff please do not add any more as it adds stuff you do not need and IF your CYA test is even close to correct you are getting close to the upper end for that level.
Mijmc, welcome. For swg, our recommended levels of operation are 3-5 ppm for 70 ppm cya, 4-6 ppm for 80 cya (see [fc/cya][/FC/cya] - this ratio is important and underpins the TFP method. )
So from your posting, it sounds like you've been operating closer to our "minimum, never drop below this number." For an swg, that means its entirely possible the ccs are coming from the FC's clearing of nascent algae. The TFP way would have you target 5 ppm during production so tat you don't drop below 3 when the swg is off.
"Shocking" weekly likely kept you from an outbreak, but would/should be entirely unneccesary if you operate at TFP recommended levels. By so-doing, I've now gone 5 years without ever needing to "shock".
Now that you're getting your own test kit, you should be able to dial in your swg to avoid ever needing to shock. And if you do need to bump it up a bit, just use liquid chlorine (if you wanna talk sports with the pool guys) or bleach if you want grocery store convenience
You'll want to confirm that youre at 70ish cya once you have your kit. I think you're going to enjoy the informed control you're about to get over your pool. It really simplifies things over time