CYA of 100...

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lelandapple

0
Jul 12, 2012
103
Winter Haven, FL
Been using tablets and wondering why my pool is still green with chlorine in it. I test CYA tonight and I'm at 100 after 4 tests. Is my only option draining at this point? Wondering how long it would take to naturally lower itself. In Florida tons of rain. My wife was talked into buying 50 pound bucket of tablets at the pool store so I think I just over used tablets causing my CYA to slowly rise without me catching it. Won't be using any more tabs til I get the # down.
#s are spot on I've got my fc up to 35 which was a task so I hate to just dump out all that water! Any ideas? Thanks.
 
CYA breaks down at a very slow rate, so slow that your only practical option is water replacement. In very warm (104-106 degree F) hot tub like conditions you may find CYA breaking down at a rate of about 5-10% per month, at typical pool temperatures it is MUCH slower.

Ike

p.s. rain only helps if you have overflow, if the rain is just making up evaporated water then CYA will remain the same as it does not evaporate, it just gets concentrated in the remaining water then replacement water either rain or tap just dilutes it back to the original level.
 
The CYA test maximum is 100. It is best to dilute the sample with 50% tap water and you can then double the result. If it is still higher, you will need to keep diluting, say 25% pool water and 70% tap water.

Your CYA could very well be much, much higher than 100. Which test kit are you using for your results? We only trust the Taylor K-2005 and the TF-100.

Because your water is green, you will want the CYA lower than 80. I would shoot for a CYA of no more than 50 which will have a SLAM FC of 20.

SLAM: Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Chlorine CYA Chart: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
 
I see. I'm using the TF-100 I bought from here. I will try diluting tonight. Gosh I hope it's not higher than 100. UGH! I hate the thought of dumping pool water out! Never had this issue before so it's a little disheartening.

On the plus side, the plaster is super clean. There is just a green cloud that keeps sitting on top of the plaster. It shouldn't be a hard SLAM once my CYA is under control.
 
So I ran the diluted tap/pool water test. Did it multiple times. The result was 50. So it appears I am right at 100. Which means I will need to drain half the pool to get to 50 CYA I assume. I am waiting til Friday to do it due to work constraints. Wish I could do it earlier as I hate seeing my pool further get green and I'm not throwing any more chlorine at it lol. Thanks for the responses guys.
 

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lelandapple said:
Been using tablets and wondering why my pool is still green with chlorine in it. I test CYA tonight and I'm at 100 after 4 tests. Is my only option draining at this point? Wondering how long it would take to naturally lower itself. In Florida tons of rain. My wife was talked into buying 50 pound bucket of tablets at the pool store so I think I just over used tablets causing my CYA to slowly rise without me catching it. Won't be using any more tabs til I get the # down.
#s are spot on I've got my fc up to 35 which was a task so I hate to just dump out all that water! Any ideas? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I was you, just a few weeks ago. Bite the bullet and drain. You will not regret it.
 
kcindc said:
You should try to keep you FC at SLAM levels to keep it from getting worse. Trust me, it can get worse, especially with the heat and the sun's strength in Florida.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know. It still has a lot of chlorine in it, but I just can't get it up to the FC it needs to be with 100 CYA... I have been adding liquid only too but I ran out yesterday so no more til I stock up before the refill. I might drain it tonight so I can speed things up. I hate sitting and waiting lol.
 
Sooo.. I will be draining into the road (yes its legal where I live) theres a sewer drain right down the street. Just wondering how I can optimize my drain due to my limited hours off of work (I work way too much). Water hoses and will be using one of my old Kreepy Krauly long hoses as well. Any other tips or tricks I'm not thinking of? I couldn't find my drain pipe near my house that I am supposed to have.. That would be too handy. Thought about buying a 50ft backwash hose too, just because I don't have one and could come in handy later.
 
kcindc said:
Do you have a waste or backwash option on your filter valve? If so, can you isolate the plumbing so that you only pull from the main drain?

If not, you can rent a pump from HD. You can check here for availability: Submersible Pump 2" Rental - The Home Depot
Click to expand...

I tried to do a manual siphon last night as I've done it before with success. Well I was having some problems so I gave up on that lol. I am renting a pump tonight I hope. Thanks for that link!!! It's available down the street from me. Woohoo!
 
Well here I am nearly a week later. I drained the pool 5 days ago, down to 50 CYA now. Pretty happy with that, ready to tacke this algae... However.. I think I have mustard algae. I have done some searching on the forums and when I scrub the algae it is like a cloud when I scrub it off.

My pool is still green after running for 4 days solid and putting one jug of 2.5 gallons of 12% liquid chlorine daily. It is slowly clearing, but goodness my power bill is going to be high. at 50 CYA, I will have to do a very high shock process of 29 FC...

I have never had so much trouble with my pool before now, it is truly frustrating. I had a renovation done about a year ago on it and I will never let it get even slightly green again if it is this much work to restore it to blue. I am about to get hit by a tropical storm here in Florida which will definitely overflow my pool causing my CYA to go down perhaps. Maybe if I am at 40 post-TS I can handle the yellow mustard shock process easier. Thanks for letting me vent :)

my numbers:
CYA 50
TA 140
P.H 7.4
FC 29 (not 100% accurate as I poured before work this AM and didn't do a check before leaving, but it's definitely very high)
 

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