Need help after plaster company failed to service new pool

[SouthFL2016]

Hi all. I'm a homeowner in South Florida. I had my pool plastered and new glass tile installed about three weeks ago. The company who did the diamond brite failed to properly service the pool (no chemicals, brushing, etc). Within two weeks I had green algae growing on the grout and calcium deposits on the glass too, but the biggest problem is that the white unsanded tile grout turned a yellowish color where the water spills over from the spa into the pool. At first I thought it might be algae too, but now I think it may be hard water stains.

I'll attach a photo. The reflective nature of the glass and water obscures the color difference somewhat, so hopefully you can still see that the grout to the left is bright white, but the grout in the middle is yellowish. (It looks much worse without sun.)

Here are other factors involved that may be possible clues:

-The plaster company used regular hose water to fill the pool

-The water is spilling over a tumbled travertine spillway. I thought maybe the water running over the natural stone was the culprit, but the grout is yellowing in some other areas not directly under the waterfall (though still nearby the waterfall)

Besides identifying the problem, what I most want to know is how to clean/whiten the grout without damaging the iridescent finish on the NPT Arctic glass tile. I have no idea what level of chemicals the tile can withstand.

Should I use muriatic acid? Or is there another product you recommend?

Thanks!




-

 

[domct203]

Hi all. I'm a homeowner in South Florida. I had my pool plastered and new glass tile installed about three weeks ago. The company who did the diamond brite failed to properly service the pool (no chemicals, brushing, etc). Within two weeks I had green algae growing on the grout and calcium deposits on the glass too, but the biggest problem is that the white unsanded tile grout turned a yellowish color where the water spills over from the spa into the pool. At first I thought it might be algae too, but now I think it may be hard water stains.

I'll attach a photo. The reflective nature of the glass and water obscures the color difference somewhat, so hopefully you can still see that the grout to the left is bright white, but the grout in the middle is yellowish. (It looks much worse without sun.)

Here are other factors involved that may be possible clues:

-The plaster company used regular hose water to fill the pool

-The water is spilling over a tumbled travertine spillway. I thought maybe the water running over the natural stone was the culprit, but the grout is yellowing in some other areas not directly under the waterfall (though still nearby the waterfall)

Besides identifying the problem, what I most want to know is how to clean/whiten the grout without damaging the iridescent finish on the NPT Arctic glass tile. I have no idea what level of chemicals the tile can withstand.

Should I use muriatic acid? Or is there another product you recommend?

Thanks!




-

Welcome to the forum!

Are you a first time pool owner? How do you normally test & maintain the pool?

It would be very helpful if you could post a complete set of recent test results to help guide the suggestions on cleaning the grout and addressing the scale. Please include:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

 

[pooldv]

Welcome to TFP!

It is normal to fill a pool with a water hose.

The first 30 days of plaster is critical to the longevity of your plaster finish. Here is the start up guide from SGM as well as links to warranty info.
http://www.sgm.cc/html_Pool/HomeOwners/startup-waterchemistry.html

I would call SGM and file a warranty claim ASAP. Although, it is your responsibility to manage pH, alkalinity and calcium hardness as well as to chlorinate your pool so you may not get much help from them. It doesn't hurt to try.

I would uses 3 to 1 diluted bleach and a nylon brush to try cleaning the grout first. As Dom says, some test results will allow us to help you a lot better.

To kill the algae you will need to follow this process, SLAM Process. But, it is not good for new plaster to have elevated chlorine levels in the first 30 days which is why maintaining FC is critical in the first 30 days. So you will have to decide about trying your best to finish out the recommended 30 day start up process from the manufacturer vs trying to kill the algae.

 

[SouthFL2016]

I just had my water tested...

Free Available Chlorine...0 (So much for my new pool service company. They added chlorine last Friday and are supposed to come again this Friday. I added a half jug myself. Should I add the 1qt acid too recommended by pool store?)
Total Available Chlorine...0
pH...8.0
Total Alk...100 ppm
Calcium Hardness....130 ppm
CYA 30 ppm
Acid Demand...4
Phosphates...300 ppb

My pool is 15' x 32'
8-feet deep
w/ a 4' x 6' shallow spa spilling over

 

[pooldv]

Yes, it is very important to maintain pH between 7.5 and 7.8 or lower at all times, especially with new plaster. It is also important to raise CH up to 250 ppm so that the water does not dissolve calcium out of the new plaster and leave pits, called etching.

With algae growing in the pool it will use up your FC very quickly.

More here on pool chems, what they do and how to add them to your pool, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

More here on creating a signature, Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

Start here in Pool School
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Getting Started

 

[domct203]

I just had my water tested...

Free Available Chlorine...0 (So much for my new pool service company. They added chlorine last Friday and are supposed to come again this Friday. I added a half jug myself. Should I add the 1qt acid too recommended by pool store?)
Total Available Chlorine...0
pH...8.0
Total Alk...100 ppm
Calcium Hardness....130 ppm
CYA 30 ppm
Acid Demand...4
Phosphates...300 ppb

My pool is 15' x 32'
8-feet deep
w/ a 4' x 6' shallow spa spilling over

What strength chlorine are you using?

The 15' X 32' pool at 8' of water depth will hold about 28,700 gallons, and if the spa is 30" that is another approx. 450 gallons, we will use 29K to start.

In 29K gallons of water, you will add 1ppm FC through the following addition:
43oz of 8.25% liquid chlorine (laundry bleach)
37oz of 10% liquid chlorine
30oz of 12.5% liquid chlorine

With that said, you will need to check if there is a FC range that you must adhere to due to warranty coverage.

If that CYA result is at all accurate, and you do not have any FC level restrictions as mentioned above you should be maintaining a target FC of 4ppm FC at all times, never going below 2ppm.

You really should get your own test kit, and it needs to include FAS/DPD chlorine test. Our experience here at TFP is that pool $tore testing has mostly proven to be inaccurate and unreliable.

The two kits we recommend are the TF-100 & Taylor K2006. They both use the exact same reagents (chemicals), but the TF-100 is a better value as far as the quantity of certain reagents.

Your pH is high, and will need muriatic acid to lower it. 153oz of 31.45% muriatic acid will lower it from 8.0 to 7.4 if the pool $tore reading is accurate. Your pH could be much higher as the test will top out at 8.0

As mentioned, you also need to raise you CH as to not damage the plaster.

 

[SouthFL2016]

Thanks for all the great information!

My local pool store said I shouldn't add Calcium Hardness because it will increase the problem I'm having with calcium deposits building up on the glass beneath my waterfall. Their CH range is 200-400, and I tested at 130. Should I at least try to get to 200?

Also, if 3:1 diluted bleach doesn't whiten my grout, what ratio of acid:water can I safely use without damaging the glass?
(The advice I've already been given on this runs the spectrum, from 25% acid/75% water dilution to 'just spray on 100% muriatic acid, it won't hurt the glass'...hence my confusion)